Builds My 69' 55 (1 Viewer)

[Pighead]

Good job on finding your original grill. Looks straight and the lenses look intact, should clean up nicely. I think they were just running lights.
On your brake wheel cylinders, IIRC, the 55 rear cylinders were slightly larger inner diameter than the 40, at least on my '74. May not be true in '69, but something to check.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Good job on finding your original grill. Looks straight and the lenses look intact, should clean up nicely. I think they were just running lights.
On your brake wheel cylinders, IIRC, the 55 rear cylinders were slightly larger inner diameter than the 40, at least on my '74. May not be true in '69, but something to check.

Will do thanks!

On your brake wheel cylinders, IIRC, the 55 rear cylinders were slightly larger inner diameter than the 40, at least on my '74. May not be true in '69, but something to check.

Will do thanks. I think you are right, If I remember correctly the front cylinder kits were a different part number than the rear.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Got the original grill on today! It looks good on there. It's the details. Thanks guys!

 

[FJBen]

What a beauty! That red really pops! My 69' was originally red from the factory and will very likely be red again someday.
Is that an original Toyota red on your 76'?

You can get that factory paint back in no time.
This thread Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks

@dogfishlake did this without repainting.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

You can get that factory paint back in no time.
This thread Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks

@dogfishlake did this without repainting.
View attachment 2209827

Sweet!! Thanks so much. I will definitely be reading up on this

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Got some brake lines made up at Pacific Rubber here in Eugene. Also had them make me some brake hoses and a new clutch master hose.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I was having a difficult time finding the rubber boot to the blower so I decided to delete the rubber boot entirely and replaced it with a custom "wind tunnel". I am really happy with the results. Anyone with a little bit of time could do this as well. Here's how I solved this problem in my 69' 55.

The old boot was nonexistent. I searched the web for a replacement but didn't have any luck. SOR had one for a 40 series and I'm not sure if it would have fit. Even so, I was more interested in finding the alternative.
I began by measuring the gap (front, back, side to side) then I pulled the unit out and took it to the shop.

When measuring the gap from front to back I determined that I would need move the blower forward about 1/2". I would need to make some kind of spacer to put between the firewall and the blower. I found a piece of 1/2" UHMW (Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight) Polyurethane. which is basically a really hard plastic material but is also easy to work with. I pulled the original rubber gasket to use it as a template.

Once I had my shape I just cut it out using a drill and a jigsaw

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Click to expand...

Once the spacer was cut and I was confident that it would be a good fit I took the blower and motor to the media-blaster.

After I had it all cleaned up a bit I decided that I wanted to replace the screen that sits on the blower. I took the old screen and simply traced it out onto some material that we've had laying around. It was the perfect choice.

Next was to add a hole for the wind gate cable.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Click to expand...

It was now time to begin constructing the wind tunnel. I took some really thin mild steel, I think schedule 22, maybe?. I'm sure tin would have worked well also. And I began cutting my pieces.

Using only a vice and my hand I then started shaping them.

I basically made four pieces, one for the top and one for the bottom along with two sides. It took a bit of trial and error but really was not too difficult. Just worked until ending up with a good fit before tacking things together with a welder. Keep in mind that the blower, the wind tunnel and the sidewall mount are not welded together. The wind tunnel slides over the blower and the sidewall mount.

Somewhere leading up to this point I damaged my resistor. I found another online and purchased it from MOUSER Electronics. Their P/N is 588-L50J1R0E (Ohmlite Wirewound Resistor). I think it was about $9. Plus a few bucks for shipping. It is a little longer than the OEM so I had to do a little modification with the mounting. All I did was took a drill and carefully drilled out the mount that wanted to move. I was sure not to drill all of the was through. Just enough to get the mount to come off with a pair of pliers. The I moved it to were It would accommodate the new resistor and tacked it on with my welder.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

With the resistor mounts now in a useful place I began to paint.

Now, I keep calling it a "wind tunnel" but all it really is, is a metal sleeve. It is not permanently attached to anything at this point. The side mount is, and the blower is but all that the wind tunnel is doing is just bridging the gap between the two. I will more than likely secure it later with a sheet metal screw or a rivet. I will be pulling it out very soon so that I can pain the engine bay. Overall this was a fairly easy modification that I am really happy with.

 

[Pighead]

That is some outstanding work right there.

 

[cruiserkreutz]

With the resistor mounts now in a useful place I began to paint.

Now, I keep calling it a "wind tunnel" but all it really is, is a metal sleeve. It is not permanently attached to anything at this point. The side mount is, and the blower is but all that the wind tunnel is doing is just bridging the gap between the two. I will more than likely secure it later with a sheet metal screw or a rivet. I will be pulling it out very soon so that I can pain the engine bay. Overall this was a fairly easy modification that I am really happy with.

Damn, that is beautiful! Should have made a few, could probably sell for a lot of $$$.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Received a package!!! Getting ready to tear into the Rear-end. Gonna replace all the bearings and seals. I found the input shaft had quite a bit of play so hopefully I won't need to replace the ring and pinion as well but I will know for sure soon. Also going to replace the driveshaft u-joints while I'm at it.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I had a minute to spare today so I ran outside and pulled the rearend out from underneath the 69'. I have been anxious about opening up that differential after noticing all that play in the input shaft. So I began by lathering all the nuts and bolts the day before in penetrating oil.

The bolts came out nice n easy.

I noticed while I was down there that someone has been into that inspection cover before. Dispite the mess left behind from that gasket sealer they didn't utilize the brake line clips.

No big deal, just wasn't sure what to expect...

I guess nobody ever told the previous owner about diff breather relocation tubes prior to creek crossings. I will be making some for this rig in the days to come.
Oh well, I guess I will be shopping for a new Ring and Pinion set along with some new Spider Gears.... I really wasn't planning on that expense but I guess I'd better get used to that.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I don't have gears yet but I do have U-Joints. This method may or may not be the best but this is how I have always done it and it works for me.

I also made matching punch marks on the appropriate flanges to help ensure proper installation of the drive shaft.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I like to spray the old joints down with a penetrating oil or in this case whatever I had on hand, WD-40

Next I used a dowel pin and a 1 inch pipe Coupler.

Slowly and evenly apply pressure using the vise.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Once I pressed the joint to its furthest point and exposed the cap, I then attempted to remove the cap with a pair of channel lock pliers. I was not successful in the least. The cap was so stubborn I ended up pressing the joint back in to expose the opposite cap. It too was not coming out. I made the decision to weld on a piece of steel so that I could tap it out with a hammer. I prepared the surface with a wire wheel.

The cap came right out with only a few taps.

But unfortunately when I exposed the opposite side I saw where I had damaged the bore. This must have happened when I pressed the joint back through after my first failed attempt in removing the first cap. Not cool...
You can see in the center where there is now a groove/gouge.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I have a solution for fixing the gouge but fist I needed to remove the rest of the u-joint. I did not want to damage the yoke any further so I decided to cut the remaining joints out with a die grinder.

One everything else was I pressed out out gave the parts a bath in the parts washer and scrub them down with a scotch brite pad.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I cleaned the retaining ring seat and deburred the inner and outer faces

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Now to address that gouge in the bore of the yoke.
I dont necessarily recommend doing this but it is what I did to remedy the situation and I am confident that It hold up over time.... i think.

I removed as little material as possible with a "flapper wheel" insert on my die grinder. I smoothed it out by only taking a couple of quick passes through the bore.

All cleaned up and ready to install the new u-joints.

We use this stuff at work when installing bearings onto equipment that has been out in rock quarries. Seems to do the trick.