CV Boots Replaced with directions (1 Viewer)

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Wtf is Google?
 
The outer end of the axle slides out the hub by just removing the outer snap ring? no need to remove the 6 nuts and special large nut?

thanks.
Just the snap ring unless you want to do bearings.
 
No one cares to share which part number pertain to which joint to clarify for the future?
Quick question about the lube. Which is which? The new ones are both yellow.
90999-94242 and
Ditto - 94241
 
Probably stupid newb question. Got a loose clamp on my inboard CV boot that I want to replace. Just need to remove the original. I'm assuming you just peel back the two tiny tangs then you can unfold the band to loosen then cut. Question is what the hell do you guys use to lift the little tangs (pictured in case I'm totally unclear). I don't have a screwdriver sharp enough. I do have a pretty fine pick and a knife. Was just hoping there was something less likely to result in my impaling the perfectly fine boot...

IMG_8041.jpg
 
A center punch or ice-pick. Come under from the side getting a corner up. Then go at with your screwdriver.
 
Newbie in the 100 area, dealing with old cars all my life.
Found the brake cleaner to be really annoying and expensive for this job. Breaks down the grease into a plastic like substance, dries the parts by evaporating too fast, and prevents the normal movement of the CV joint by getting too dry, and full of little pieces of old grease between the parts.
Doing the job right now, haven’t finished yet, doing other parts “while I’m at it”, and used kerosene to clean the greasy parts. It melts the grease, leaving a lubricated metal that won’t dry and rust, in case it’ll take you longer to re-assemble. Got it as “white has camp fuel” from Wally World for $8 a gallon can. The kerosene in a plastic container and a painters brush will clean all the grease off your cv’s,
bearings, hub, and all the mess left behind by the teared boot in minutes.
Just my $0.02.
 
Have a slight tear on inner and outer has grease leaking from the ends more.Cv axles a fine a they super important to do asap boots.Reclamp ing doesn't work with cracked boots.
 
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Quick question about the lube. Which is which? The new ones are both yellow.
90999-94242 and
Ditto - 94241
I know this is an OLD question, but I have also wondered this in the past! Here's the answer for posterity:
Smaller tube (90999-94241) for inner CV, larger tube (90999-94242) for outer CV.
 
So below I have posted pics of the front CV axles and interior boots (both sides).

I’m a new owner and just wondering what all the grease flung everywhere means? The outside boots look dry and uncracked...

29457550-0776-40C5-93FF-E50A926B1F97.jpeg
 
This means your boots are cracked or your clamps are too loose, and it's time to more closely I spent them

Sometimes you can tighten or replace the clamps. Most of the time you'll need to replace the boots, which is 100% doable, but a bit messy and expensive.
 
The best tool to get the correct crimp tension (gap) is the OTC tool shown above. About $18 on Amazon. The pliers type work ok to get the crimp started but struggle to achieve the proper gap called out in the repair manual.

Look at it this way- tools are free when you save doing your own service work. And you will use these crimpers again.

There are two clamp types in the reboot kit, will this do them both?
 
@2001LC what about the grease that has come out so far? Do these boots/joints need re-greased before re-clamping?

Thanks!
Usually no grease is need to be added into CV joints. Provided you do not see excessive amount slung out. The grease really stick where it was slung. You'll find it very very difficult to wash off. So you can see about how much came out.

If however you see more than say 3 or 4 tablespoons, than consider adding some. In that case, I'd buy a Toyota boot kit, and cannibalize some of kits' grease.
 
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Is it possible to replace both inboard and outboard boots without removing the CV joint from the vehicle? I was able to replace both DS and PS inboard boots on my 2008 Toyota 4Runner by disconnecting the steering knuckle from the lower suspension arm (There are two bolts that allowed to do so without disconnecting the lower ball joint but they do not exist on 100 series).

If I disconnect the lower ball joint would it allow me to remove outboard joint shaft from the inboard joint tulip while cutting the boot in half and removing boot clamps? Reading the first couple pages make me really keep the inboard joint tulip inside the differential.

Front Drive Shaft.png
 
Multipart answer.
1. Yes it is probably possible. I have actually done this before on an older 1990's Toyota sedan where the inner CV axle was permanently stuck in the transmission... It should probably also be possible on a LandCruiser.

2. OH MY GOD! Don't ever try to do this!!! You will want to die it would be so ridiculously extra difficult. If I were in a 3rd world country, out in the bush, and my axle HAD to be rebuilt, and for some evil reason it couldn't come out (even though it always can), then I might try this. Occasionally I've had oddly difficult repairs in 3rd world countries...

3. (Really just more of #2) the inner axle 'tulip' should always come out reasonably easy. Just a little differential oil will leak out... probably less than 1/2 a cup(?). Nothing about this particular stage of the assembly or disassembling process is more difficult than any other part.

4. Seriously. Rebuilding axles isn't THAT hard, but it's still a real pain in the butt. Don't sabotage yourself by trying to do this in some super hard way.

5. Super seriously, don't try to do this with the 'tulip' in the diff, hoping it will be easier!

6. I might be starting to have an anxiety attack just thinking about trying to rebuild my axles while still partially on my truck.

-Steve
 

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