Long term wear from towing. Real world data on what to expect. (1 Viewer)

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I tow a 3500 lb. trailer 5K miles or so per year. Anyone out there with long term towing experience noticing any damage from it? And what's the best way to maintain the LC along the way beyond the factory maintenance schedule.
 
I've towed probably 3,000 miles this year at weights between 2,000 and 6,000 lbs (and ironically over the pass through Bend). Other than fuel, the truck really doesn't care much. Just common sense things like use manual gear selection to keep it from hunting and to keep the TC locked as much as possible to minimize heat buildup. I would also recommend that, if you're over 60k you do a full fluid exchange on the transmission.

Also note that the owner's manual requires trailer brakes for over 1,000 lbs, sway control for over 2,000 lbs, two axles for over 3,000 lbs, and load distribution hitch for over 5,000 lbs. I've violated all of these with no ill effects, just mentioning for awareness. The one rule you should never violate, though, is proper tongue weight. When in doubt, keep it forward.
 
* Does your trailer have brakes? If really does help keep wear on the truck down if your trailer has brakes.

* If you're in an LX your AHC takes care of leveling. If you're in an LC you may want air bags depending on how you l load the trailer and where the weight is.

* With only 3500 lbs the weight isn't that big of a concern, but personally I run different oil if I'm towing anything over 5000 lbs more than once. I prefer Mobil1 0w40 european formula or Castrol 0w40 european formula.

* Apart from that, make sure you always carry a spare tire for the trailer, and make sure your trailer tires are not over 5yrs old. And keep the trailer axles greased and serviced.
 
I've towed probably 3,000 miles this year at weights between 2,000 and 6,000 lbs (and ironically over the pass through Bend). Other than fuel, the truck really doesn't care much. Just common sense things like use manual gear selection to keep it from hunting and to keep the TC locked as much as possible to minimize heat buildup. I would also recommend that, if you're over 60k you do a full fluid exchange on the transmission.

Also note that the owner's manual requires trailer brakes for over 1,000 lbs, sway control for over 2,000 lbs, two axles for over 3,000 lbs, and load distribution hitch for over 5,000 lbs. I've violated all of these with no ill effects, just mentioning for awareness. The one rule you should never violate, though, is proper tongue weight. When in doubt, keep it forward.

" to keep the TC locked as much as possible to minimize heat buildup" What are you referring to as the TC? The only TC I'm familiar with is the Transfer case.
 
" to keep the TC locked as much as possible to minimize heat buildup" What are you referring to as the TC? The only TC I'm familiar with is the Transfer case.

I shouldn't have abbreviated. Torque Converter. It can either be mechanically locked or hydraulically driven. When locked there isn't excess heat buildup from within the Torque Converter. Better to shift down to 4 or 3 and keep it locked then let it slip in a higher gear. If you have an OBD app on your phone you can watch the trans temps climb.
 
I shouldn't have abbreviated. Torque Converter. It can either be mechanically locked or hydraulically driven. When locked there isn't excess heat buildup from within the Torque Converter. Better to shift down to 4 or 3 and keep it locked then let it slip in a higher gear. If you have an OBD app on your phone you can watch the trans temps climb.

Thanks , now that brings the question how to lock the TC ? The only way I've seen that is having an Australian valve body kit installed $$$.
 
No one here will be surprised but following a 2,000 mile trip towing our travel trailer with our 2013 Yukon XL, the Yukon took on a few more squeaks and rattles. Despite nearly twice as many miles, our 200 has zero squeaks and rattles towing the same thing.
 
Thanks , now that brings the question how to lock the TC ? The only way I've seen that is having an Australian valve body kit installed $$$.
If you keep it in a lower gear you will also stay locked up. So with the 6speed its recommended to use 4th as final gear and 6th for 8speed.

I don't tow too often so only providing what I've learned here
 
If you keep it in a lower gear you will also stay locked up. So with the 6speed its recommended to use 4th as final gear and 6th for 8speed.

I don't tow too often so only providing what I've learned here


OK that makes sense. I've driven down hill without a trailer and have manually downshifted to 2nd. Doesn't really slow down the truck like a manual transmission.

This looks like an upgrade for a later date.


 
Thanks , now that brings the question how to lock the TC ? The only way I've seen that is having an Australian valve body kit installed $$$.

If you keep it in a lower gear you will also stay locked up. So with the 6speed its recommended to use 4th as final gear and 6th for 8speed.

Yeah, we don't have a button to lock it. There's an algorithm in the trans ECU that dictates unlock and downshift parameters in response to power requests. You can see it unlock on the tach with a slight increase in RPM that doesn't stay rock solid with minor power adjustments. 6th at 1,700 rpm will unlock very easily. 4th at 2,400 RPM will stay locked much deeper into the pedal.
 
Will the TC lock up in lower gears? If I remember correctly, the 80 series would only lock up in the two highest gears (3&4?), but I could be wrong. Not sure on the 200.
 
To add to the TC lockup info, some people might be concerned with having the RPMs elevated for extended periods on the freeway. Keeping it in a lower gear to keep the TC locked might require driving along at 3k or 3500.. There is nothing wrong with this. If anything it does a better job of keeping oil pressure up, coolant moving through the engine, the fan spinning, etc. And, having the TC locked up is MUCH better for ATF temps and as a result transmission health.

Most automatic transmissions won't lock the TC at all in the lower gears.. do we know if it will perform lockup in 2nd? 3rd? I'm sure it will do 4,5,6, being the direct-drive and overdrive gears.

As for thicker oil, there is always debate but the seemingly better educated posters on Bob Is The Oil Guy seem to be of the opinion a thicker oil will not necessarily protect an engine better, if it was designed for thinner oil. Plus, my understanding is thicker oil takes much longer to change temps, so if you get it hot (with resulting viscosity decrease/volatility) it would be much slower to come back down to normal temps than a thinner oil.

OK that makes sense. I've driven down hill without a trailer and have manually downshifted to 2nd. Doesn't really slow down the truck like a manual transmission.

This looks like an upgrade for a later date.



So few people seem to have problems with the stock transmission I'm not sure that is worth the money.

Plus, IF these transmissions will lock up in 2nd it should act just like a manual with similar ratios. Other than the heavy flywheel of a manual sometimes being what does the braking if it's not already up to transmission speed when you engage the clutch.
 
I tow a 3500 lb. trailer 5K miles or so per year. Anyone out there with long term towing experience noticing any damage from it? And what's the best way to maintain the LC along the way beyond the factory maintenance schedule.
Same here. I've got over 40,000 miles on my 3 year old truck, almost all towing. The LC is built for it and I don't think will have any particular concerns for wear if maintained well. I use the severe service (towing) recommendations in the owner's manual, including extra gear oil and engine oil changes. I also use airbags in the rear springs that likely help longevity of the shocks and bushings. Oh, and I also make sure the propeller shafts are lubed every year.
 
Fresh fluids in everything on a more-than-recommended frequency interval and you’ll be fine.

There has been lots of discussions bout the 0W-20 weight oil and its performance concerns.

The reality is due to the shear number of 5.7 Tundras that are in service, some with far more severe service lives than our LC’s live, we would know about mechanical degradation in the engine due to the number of UOA’s that have been shared.
 
I tow a ~6800lb camper 5k-10k miles a year with my ‘13 LX, I’m at 70k miles with probably around 50k of that towing. Trans in manual 4th, ect power. I do the *recommended for towing/off road service intervals for all the fluids. I look at the service manual every 5k and do what it says, Which off hand I think Is diffs and t-case every 15k and transmission and AHC every 30k?
 
Will the TC lock up in lower gears? If I remember correctly, the 80 series would only lock up in the two highest gears (3&4?), but I could be wrong. Not sure on the 200.

Yes, it absolutely stays locked in both 3rd and 4th. In the A343F I know 3rd wouldn't lock in D but it would in 3.

To add to the TC lockup info, some people might be concerned with having the RPMs elevated for extended periods on the freeway. Keeping it in a lower gear to keep the TC locked might require driving along at 3k or 3500.. There is nothing wrong with this. If anything it does a better job of keeping oil pressure up, coolant moving through the engine, the fan spinning, etc. And, having the TC locked up is MUCH better for ATF temps and as a result transmission health.

Agreed. Climbing over Santiam Pass I'll often just leave it in 4 or 3 depending upon the grade. The 3UR is silky smooth and very content at 3,000 rpm.
 
what @coleAK says.

I did a Towing with a 200-series thread a few years back, if you search. I tow 5-7k miles per year, and my trailer is around 6000#. Short answer is change your fluids as the manual describes, run it in 4th gear, and even 5k miles per year you'll probably never notice a difference in vehicle life, save for perhaps some additional brake wear.
 
* Does your trailer have brakes? If really does help keep wear on the truck down if your trailer has brakes.

* If you're in an LX your AHC takes care of leveling. If you're in an LC you may want air bags depending on how you l load the trailer and where the weight is.

* With only 3500 lbs the weight isn't that big of a concern, but personally I run different oil if I'm towing anything over 5000 lbs more than once. I prefer Mobil1 0w40 european formula or Castrol 0w40 european formula.

* Apart from that, make sure you always carry a spare tire for the trailer, and make sure your trailer tires are not over 5yrs old. And keep the trailer axles greased and serviced.
I have a Lance trailer, it has brakes,I have a brake controller in the LC , I carry a spare tire, tires are new and axel is greased and I use a WDH.
 
I didn’t happen to be towing here, but this was climbing Santiam pass yesterday with it in 4th and TC locked. RPMs are very reasonable and there was no 3-4 hunting at all. It did downshift once when passing a semi near the summit. Other than that it was a very happy, low stressed truck.

EBD15058-6390-44F2-8DB4-E43CDFB7D26C.jpeg
 

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