2008 is a 200 series. You either have a 200, or you don't have a 2008.
It would not be a "bolt-in-ish" mod for a 100 series like it is for the 200, and it might not be pretty or easy, but I'd think it could be made to work.
Soft open lower tailgate for LC (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter teambell
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It would not be a "bolt-in-ish" mod for a 100 series like it is for the 200, and it might not be pretty or easy, but I'd think it could be made to work.
How heavy is a 200 tailgate? Is it easy for one person to get it off and back on and fasten the hinges or is it a 2 person job? Going to do mine this week.
Markuson
SILVER Star
One person, though two usually makes things better.
Success. Lining up the torsion spring while holding up the tailgate with one hand while trying to line up and thread a hinge bolt was a bitch. If you move too much the torsion spring snaps back out. Took about 20 tries to get it
Two people would have made the torsion spring part easier.
Two people would have made the torsion spring part easier.
Sure, most if not all vehicle manufacturers begin sales of a new model year at the end of the current model year. So, the first 2008 LX570s, LCs, etc. would have been built and sold in mid-to-late 2007 (That doesn't make them 2007 model year vehicles). The year on the title will say 2008. You can't order parts for a 2007 LX570, nor can you order parts for a 2008 LX470 no matter how hard you try.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I was responding to the claim that he could not have a 2008 LX. maybe I misunderstood what was meant…. But meh...
Having done this mod today, a few tips, some repeated, to highlight the things that I found.
Tailgate trim/storage. Same fasteners as body and liftgate panels. They dont feel like they'll come out, but once you get a couple loose with a trim tool, you can get your fingers under the trim and just yank.
Drilling out the weld nut for the damper: I drilled a small pilot hole from the inside using a dremel. There's just enough room to get a dremel in there. I ran a bolt thru from the inside to help protect the weld nut. Use the new hinge and damper as a guide for drilling from the outside. I didnt and the hole turned out messier than I'd like. Fortunately, the mounting plate covered the hole. Use a drill stop to prevent damaging the weld nut. I'd have used a piece of tubing to limit the depth if I had it to do over.
Reattaching the tailgate: The torsion bar spring is a bitch. I loosened the center two clamps but not all the way. Didnt want to wrestle with a new problem of my own making. Hook the torsion bar under the bracket. It didnt want to stay, and the tailgate wouldnt flip down. Finally figured out that I had to get it close and then thread a bolt into each hinge. Then the torsion bar stayed put and the tailgate moved up and down properly. I attached both cables to the tailgate to help support the weight while I wrestled the tailgate and torsion bar. I did both sides so I didnt have to worry about one side falling.
I attached the damper with the tailgate open. Didnt have to rotate the damper or adjust anything. I did try the damper and hinge on the tailgate before I attached the tailgate back to the truck to make sure it was moving freely. The action is pretty stiff off the truck.
Lining up the shaft and square hole: Just move the tailgate up and down a little to get the square hole lined up.
Used a bungee cord from a second row headrest to the tailgate flap to keep it up and out of the way.
I know some of this has been mentioned above, but I think its worth emphasizing again as sticking points in this mod.
Tailgate trim/storage. Same fasteners as body and liftgate panels. They dont feel like they'll come out, but once you get a couple loose with a trim tool, you can get your fingers under the trim and just yank.
Drilling out the weld nut for the damper: I drilled a small pilot hole from the inside using a dremel. There's just enough room to get a dremel in there. I ran a bolt thru from the inside to help protect the weld nut. Use the new hinge and damper as a guide for drilling from the outside. I didnt and the hole turned out messier than I'd like. Fortunately, the mounting plate covered the hole. Use a drill stop to prevent damaging the weld nut. I'd have used a piece of tubing to limit the depth if I had it to do over.
Reattaching the tailgate: The torsion bar spring is a bitch. I loosened the center two clamps but not all the way. Didnt want to wrestle with a new problem of my own making. Hook the torsion bar under the bracket. It didnt want to stay, and the tailgate wouldnt flip down. Finally figured out that I had to get it close and then thread a bolt into each hinge. Then the torsion bar stayed put and the tailgate moved up and down properly. I attached both cables to the tailgate to help support the weight while I wrestled the tailgate and torsion bar. I did both sides so I didnt have to worry about one side falling.
I attached the damper with the tailgate open. Didnt have to rotate the damper or adjust anything. I did try the damper and hinge on the tailgate before I attached the tailgate back to the truck to make sure it was moving freely. The action is pretty stiff off the truck.
Lining up the shaft and square hole: Just move the tailgate up and down a little to get the square hole lined up.
Used a bungee cord from a second row headrest to the tailgate flap to keep it up and out of the way.
I know some of this has been mentioned above, but I think its worth emphasizing again as sticking points in this mod.
I swapped out the hinge and drilled the hole today (finally!)- found the whole project to be really simple. I'm actually shocked with how well it all went together.
From others who have done this- the damper part seems way too stiff to move. I don't have the bolt for the damper yet, but I slipped the damper on the hinge and tried to move the tailgate and the mounting plate for the damper just bent. Does this seem right? I'm ordering the bolt on Monday- if I need to ping the ebay seller about the part I suppose I can do that too.
Edit- adding more info- when I slip the damper onto the hinge it goes on, but the damper wont' allow the tailgate to close- it just bends the hinge. Using a large straight blade screwdriver I can barely turn the damper. I wouldn't expect to be able to turn it easily, but I'm hoping someone has a suggestion.
From others who have done this- the damper part seems way too stiff to move. I don't have the bolt for the damper yet, but I slipped the damper on the hinge and tried to move the tailgate and the mounting plate for the damper just bent. Does this seem right? I'm ordering the bolt on Monday- if I need to ping the ebay seller about the part I suppose I can do that too.
Edit- adding more info- when I slip the damper onto the hinge it goes on, but the damper wont' allow the tailgate to close- it just bends the hinge. Using a large straight blade screwdriver I can barely turn the damper. I wouldn't expect to be able to turn it easily, but I'm hoping someone has a suggestion.
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elcie200
SILVER Star
That happened to me. Try putting the damper on the hinge and grabbing/rotating it (the damper). Then take it off the hinge and re-align it.
Is this a more simple bolt on for the 2016 and 2017? Or the same process ore frefresh?
It should be the same process. Is it the 18s that come with it from factory?
can you post a photo of the situation?
File attached. I think trying to twist the damper with a screwdriver has made it a snug fit on the hinge, but it will slide all the way on.
If you're able to slide the all the way on, you should be fine. It is very stiff, so I wouldn't bother trying to operate it without it being totally bolted on.
If you're impatient, the bolt that holds the cargo tray into the tailgate should thread into the hole. You could do that to as a temp measure to test it.
I didn't think about trying one of those bolts... should have tried that! I ordered a few parts yesterday so the factory part should ship to me sometime this week.
This worked like a charm. I used a file and smoothed out the high spots inside the damper that I made with the straight blade screwdriver. Bolting the damper did the trick- whatever the problem was (and it was extra stiff at first), it just worked. Thank you!
Thanks gents for this thread. I fitted my Tailgate Damper kit over the weekend. Took roughly 2 hours.
Hardest part were the check cables. But still managed to get them off without any issues.
My Soft close mechanism was actually engaged already so i had to disengaged it into the open position first.
Otherwise like a charm.
My tailgate does come down a little quick as I have Ratched Straps and Cargo Ties downs in the storage area but it still doesnt slam at all and comes down nicely.
Cheers everyone for the write up!
Hardest part were the check cables. But still managed to get them off without any issues.
My Soft close mechanism was actually engaged already so i had to disengaged it into the open position first.
Otherwise like a charm.
My tailgate does come down a little quick as I have Ratched Straps and Cargo Ties downs in the storage area but it still doesnt slam at all and comes down nicely.
Cheers everyone for the write up!
what is the part NO for the hinge? not the spring?
