Key broke - 2004 Land Cruiser ... (1 Viewer)

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Advance, NC
My key broke on my 2004 Land Cruiser. Toyota wants over $400.
I have the metal key end and the push button module.
Looks like one should be able to insert it back into a replacement plastic housing.

Any suggestions?
 
Get this and never worry about it again:

 
Get this and never worry about it again:


I agree. I bought one and it is awesome. I have a duplicator and can cut all the $5 replacements I want, but the Yotamd key shell is the best. @suprarx7nut has a great product.
 
My key broke on my 2004 Land Cruiser. Toyota wants over $400.
I have the metal key end and the push button module.
Looks like one should be able to insert it back into a replacement plastic housing.

Any suggestions?

As others have mentioned, check out my YotaMD key.


I broke a few keys years back and did something about it. The OEM design is just flawed. All the aftermarket options are just different ways of attempting to hold a metal blade with plastic - except the YotaMD kit. I use titanium plates to reinforce the blade and the manufacturing is extremely precise such that all blade styles fit nicely. With the other aftermarket kits most keys wobble like crazy.

You'll get the least movement and the best durability out of the YotaMD kit and I'm here to stand behind it as an active member in the community. :)

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Another vote for the YotaMD shell. Cruiser I just bought had one on it already but the blade wobbled like crazy. Upon further inspection I found that not only was it installed improperly but half the parts were missing. Quick $10 order of the parts kit and she is solid as a rock now!

Plan to order a second one for the spare that I have once I get it programmed properly to the immobilizer.

Quick question for @suprarx7nut ... The two screws/bolts on the bottom on either side of the key blade, are the backs supposed to protrude slightly from the case (just enough to feel, so maybe 1-2mm) or should they be flush with the body when tight?
 
I have YodaMD on both my LX keys, both my wife's GX keys, and just did my sister's RX over the holiday. Fantastic product that is worth it at twice the price. One of the few lifetime fixes we get with 20 year old vehicles.
 
As others mentioned, @suprarx7nut YotaMD shell is the absolute best solution to your problem. You will not be disappointed, and you’ll save over $300 compared to your dealer’s solution.
 
Another vote for the YotaMD shell. Cruiser I just bought had one on it already but the blade wobbled like crazy. Upon further inspection I found that not only was it installed improperly but half the parts were missing. Quick $10 order of the parts kit and she is solid as a rock now!

Plan to order a second one for the spare that I have once I get it programmed properly to the immobilizer.

Quick question for @suprarx7nut ... The two screws/bolts on the bottom on either side of the key blade, are the backs supposed to protrude slightly from the case (just enough to feel, so maybe 1-2mm) or should they be flush with the body when tight?

If your kit is old (2018 and older) it might be an older revision where I hadn't dialed in that dimension perfectly. Revisions before "I" had a little more screw poke and I corrected it in the newer production runs.

If your kit is newer than rev I, It depends on your remote and key blade. If you have a thin blade and thin remote you can get a little bit of the screw tip poking through, but it should be very little. Using the SS screws (silver) minimizes/eliminates this. If you're already using SS screws and still have some poke, you can file the screws (file with a nut threaded onto the screw so you can clean up the threads with the nut) or just let me know and I'll file some screws down and send them your way.
 
If your kit is old (2018 and older) it might be an older revision where I hadn't dialed in that dimension perfectly. Revisions before "I" had a little more screw poke and I corrected it in the newer production runs.

If your kit is newer than rev I, It depends on your remote and key blade. If you have a thin blade and thin remote you can get a little bit of the screw tip poking through, but it should be very little. Using the SS screws (silver) minimizes/eliminates this. If you're already using SS screws and still have some poke, you can file the screws (file with a nut threaded onto the screw so you can clean up the threads with the nut) or just let me know and I'll file some screws down and send them your way.

Since I did not purchase the kit I have no idea what version/year it is. I am assuming it is an older (pre-Rev.1) version seeing as I believe the guys I purchased from got the truck in 2016 and the shell is warn.
 
Since I did not purchase the kit I have no idea what version/year it is. I am assuming it is an older (pre-Rev.1) version seeing as I believe the guys I purchased from got the truck in 2016 and the shell is warn.

Yeah It's probably an old version then. The new ones should eliminate that poke and will have far better durability on the coating/dye. I'll send you a PM to get more details and see if we can get you an updated kit.
 

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