Differential and transfer case plug torque specifications (1 Viewer)

[TLCLVR]

Can anyone hook me up with the front and rear differential and transfer case fill and drain plug torque specifications? Been searching the forums and google for over an hour... nada

 

[TLCLVR]

Found them in @MScruiser's how-to videos! Putting them down here so they're searchable.

Torque specs:
Rear Differential-- Drain/Filler 36 ft-lbs, use the shaped metal gasket 12157-10010 for both plugs. Same gasket used in front diff filler

Front Differential-- Drain/Filler 29 ft-lbs, use the copper flat gasket 90430-24003 for the drain plug. Filler same as above.

Transfer Case-- Drain/Filler 27 ft-lbs, use the aluminum flat gaskets 90430-18008 for both.

Transfer Case skid plate screws-- 22 ft-lbs

Transfer Case skid plate screws-- 22 ft-lbs

Transfer Case Damper screws (2)-- 9 ft-lbs

Thanks again to @MScruiser for the data! Check out his how-to videos here: My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case

Crush washer (gasket) kits are also available on Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B07DFJ24WD
Amazon product ASIN B07CJHTDVV

 

[bloc]

The front diff drain is notorious for being locked up and the head stripping out due to the small internal 10mm hex (Allen) design. Make sure you have a new drain plug on hand, or better yet the Lexus part posted elsewhere on this board. It has a 14mm external hex. Yes this happens on totally rust free trucks.

Also bookmark some threads on how others got theirs loose. Hammer and chisel can work if you are very careful. Personally I prefer welding a nut to the head where the heat helps loosen up whatever makes them stick.

 

[tominboise]

I know Toyota sources these gear boxes and axles from suppliers, but it would have been a handy engineering exercise to use the same plug and gasket on all drain and fill plugs. Simple to do when writing the specifications for the assemblies. The chief engineer should have demanded it.

 

[TLCLVR]

The front diff drain is notorious for being locked up and the head stripping out due to the small internal 10mm hex (Allen) design. Make sure you have a new drain plug on hand, or better yet the Lexus part posted elsewhere on this board. It has a 14mm external hex. Yes this happens on totally rust free trucks.

Also bookmark some threads on how others got theirs loose. Hammer and chisel can work if you are very careful. Personally I prefer welding a nut to the head where the heat helps loosen up whatever makes them stick.

Yeah, royal PITA!! I spent 3 hours just trying to get that one plug open. WD-40, the hammer method, and a 3ft HD socket wrench being torqued by my 3-ton floor jack finally broke it free. Super lucky that it didn’t strip cause I don’t have a welder. I’m definitely gonna buy the Lexus plug for the next change.

Both plugs in the front diff looked like someone had used a torx style head on them and chewed them up a pretty good. Also, the front fluid was nasty, while the rear was almost clear. Makes me wonder if Toyota service actually got it open and changed the fluid last time I took it in for the 4x4 service and shelled over $500.
BTW, I used Red Line MT-LV in the transfer case. Early indications are very good. Might be in my head, but don’t think I’ve ever seen the center diff or 4Lo engage so quickly and effortlessly. Time will tell, but I’m hoping I’ll stop getting the occasional stuck center diff that’s plagued me in the past.

 

[bloc]

I know Toyota sources these gear boxes and axles from suppliers, but it would have been a handy engineering exercise to use the same plug and gasket on all drain and fill plugs. Simple to do when writing the specifications for the assemblies. The chief engineer should have demanded it.

Toyota usually does that kind of thing.. look at any older solid axle toyota and they use the same thread size/pitch for all of the drivetrain plugs. In the case of IFS and these split differential cases you need a large drain plug to put a lever dial indicator into the hole and measure backlash when setting up the diff gears.

Then, knowing it didn't need much torque, they put a 10mm internal hex in there, which should be plenty. Thing is the very large threads and some odd metallurgy are resulting in them sticking, and that 10mm hex being way too small. If they had to use a large plug they should have put a large hex on it. Problem solved.

BTW, I used Red Line MT-LV in the transfer case. Early indications are very good. Might be in my head, but don’t think I’ve ever seen the center diff or 4Lo engage so quickly and effortlessly. Time will tell, but I’m hoping I’ll stop getting the occasional stuck center diff that’s plagued me in the past.

MT-LV should work fine, being a GL-4 gear oil.. won't mess with the yellow metal parts in the case. I still found the OE fluid properties odd enough and haven't seen a good explanation of what makes it different, so with how infrequently it gets changed I still go with that.

 

[TLCLVR]

I agree. I would have gone with the OE fluid, but the dealer couldn’t get it and I couldn’t find anywhere online.

 

[bloc]

I agree. I would have gone with the OE fluid, but the dealer couldn’t get it and I couldn’t find anywhere online.

Dealers not doing their job, especially when it is as easy as ordering any other toyota part they don’t stock, is unacceptably lazy.

My local place that also happens to have an online presence doesn’t stock the stuff but has had no trouble getting it every time I’ve requested.

Either way it seems you should be fine.