200 Series 2nd Row Removal (1 Viewer)

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Nov 14, 2016
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Location
Wimberley, TX
I haven't completed this yet, but here is what I have so far. Hoping this may help someone else. I'll update once completed.

My research has indicated that the 40 section of the 60/40 split can be removed.

It is advised that the seat is in the "up" position and off of the rear latches. The front facing bolts should be removed first (the plastic trim cover should pop off but be careful, it likes to bend).

The second step is to remove the top facing bolts (under the front of the seat).

Third step is to disconnect wiring harness (if present).

You will most likely need a Toyota Part No.: 09843-18061
SRS CHECK WIRE to prevent airbag warning lights.

I have good intentions of making a video of this process.
 
It is silly easy. Remove the plastic covers, unplug the two connectors on each side (airbag and heated seats), then remove the bolts and take them out. The hinge is spring loaded, so remove the bolts on the vertical surface first, then tip the seat up to remove the horizontal ones. They are much heavier than they look.
 
Very easy to remove, I used this process to turn the airbag light off
 

Here's another option. Just a little simpler and it works. Probably doesn't look as professional though.
 
That is the process, super easy. I just put the resistor straight into the airbag plug and taped over it, no need for special wires etc.


Can you share what you did ? Thanks
 
Can you share what you did ? Thanks

take the resistor, trim the legs some.

fold the legs down so they can go into the female portion of the terminals on the airbag plug.

make sure the legs don’t touch Once inserted

tape it up w electrical tape

should be pretty self explanatory once you are in there.

(sent from my phone so apologies for any typos)
 
These are the resistors I use when my second row is out for trips.

E4EA8566-46B8-4669-B884-C05CF3734882.jpeg
 
These are the resistors I use when my second row is out for trips.

View attachment 2178228

Yup. You can buy a bag of those resistors on Amazon for cheap. Works perfectly, my seats are currently sitting in my garage, 1500 miles away from the truck.
 
I screwed up the removal and now I need to figure out a way to shut off that airbag light or repair the connector/s...the light has been on for 4 years.

Do you know if this will shut off the light in my particular case?

I searched "2 ohm resistor" on Amazon and had about 50 hits, do they all work the same?
 
I screwed up the removal and now I need to figure out a way to shut off that airbag light or repair the connector/s...the light has been on for 4 years.

Do you know if this will shut off the light in my particular case?

I searched "2 ohm resistor" on Amazon and had about 50 hits, do they all work the same?
The main specs will be resistance (ohms) and power (watts). Technically a higher wattage resistor will work fine, but fitting it into the connector will be more difficult and the fatter wire might damage the internals of the female connector. The diagnostic function constantly checking for continuity (what triggers the light) will be very low power so we don’t *need* to run a high power unit.

I THINK I used 2-ohm 1/4-watt resistors for mine.

I’m assuming the airbag trigger signal is higher power, but if the airbag isn’t there (no passenger) and the resistor doesn’t survive being fired.. I’m not that concerned.
 
If the connectors are gone you can just put the resistance in between the wires. Soldering probably best, heat shrink butt joint would work too.
 
I screwed up the removal and now I need to figure out a way to shut off that airbag light or repair the connector/s...the light has been on for 4 years.

Do you know if this will shut off the light in my particular case?

I searched "2 ohm resistor" on Amazon and had about 50 hits, do they all work the same?
Also are you saying the lights are on even with the seats in place? And connectors engaged like factory?
 
Happened to be pulling my second row for a trip next week. The fuzzy tape is made by Tessa specifically for interior wiring harnesses.

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47B3AA10-95C9-4BBA-9A7A-34C8A9A7DD21.jpeg


FF6DDE8F-84D9-4C6B-BD27-61C9796688C6.jpeg
 
I screwed up the removal. I was having a hard time getting the SRS connector to come apart and tried removing all of the bolts so that I could move the seat a little and get the wiring in a better position to release the connector . . . The seat is heavier than I thought and I ended up pulling the wires out of the connector :doh:.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to put the wires back in that female housing (part 90980-12698).

Anyone know how??

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