What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (42 Viewers)

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Rebuilt FJ62 front axle with Tundra calipers and new heavy OME springs installed today. Rear with 80 series FF axle is done, front is done, now all that's left are a few things to bolt up. Looking forward to being able to actually stop this heavy beast.

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Handy timing on the pics. I'm planning on ordering an OME heavy kit from Kurt soon and was curious how the anti inversion shackles get oriented on install.
 
In the 24 years I've driven my 62, not once have I ever used the cigarette lighter for any other purpose than charging my phones or other small electronics. Now that pretty much all small electronic devices are charged by USB, I ordered a USB charger to permanently install in place of my lighter. Found one on Amazon that had good reviews, compatible with fast charge standards (including QC 3.0) and was only $16. A little Dremel work to enlarge the opening, file four sides of the charger's face so it'd tuck nicely into the recessed opening, modify the lighter's wire harness so I can use the factory Toyota connector to plug in the charger and was good to go. The charger uses a 10A fuse though, and I was going to just change out the 15A fuse in the panel with a 10A, but the clock, radio and (which I no longer have) power antenna are also fed by that fuse, so I put a 10A mini fuse in the sub harness for the charger. Works beautifully and ended up being a nice clean fit.

USB charger.jpg
 
It's not necessary. My steering box has been leaking badly and it's been resealed a couple of times. Instead of trying to track down a leak free 60 box or sending this one off to a shop again I decided to go with an 80 series box. We have a '97 FZJ80 with almost 300k miles on it and that box is still tight, based on that I figured going with an 80 box would be a better bet than another 60 box.

The pitman arm has to be swapped over. The inner fender needs to be slightly notched and I'm going to have to loosen the steering column to slide the steering yoke onto the steering box shaft, then retighten the column.
Aren't there other benefits to using an 80 series gearbox on a 60/62 as well? I remember a thread discussing it a while back but can't for the life of me find it now.
 
Made a trip to the Platoro CO area. The southern San Juan mountains are new country for me and it has outstanding scenery. The aspens were late and were putting on a show.

Elevation at Platoro is 9,900 ft and nights were cold so we stayed in a cabin rather than sleeping in the 60.

Trip report and more photos here: Platoro Colorado

Platoro cabin
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Platoro reservoir
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FS road 250 above the Stunner campground site
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Is it beneficial to ground the radiator? This is the first I'm hearing of doing this, but a quick google search mentions electrolysis prevention?
It’s actually necessary unless you just like replacing them every year or two. The process of electrolysis will eat holes in the rqdiator pretty fast. I’m not a chemist and I don’t claim to have this right, but it’s my impression that old coolant types are not specifically designed with aluminum in mind. Back in the day the engine blocks were steel and radiators all brass. Now with aluminum blocks and radiators the new coolant is formulated to work with those systems. From my research, the new coolants will not be happy with the iron engine block. Aluminum can replace the brass so long as it’s grounded to keep electrical charge from building in the liquid. It’s as simple as running a copper wire from the core to the frame somewhere. They also sell a cap that has an electrode that’s designed to corrode over time. It takes the damage and is a part that’s suppose to be replaced every so often.

In short, ground your aluminum radiator and keep using the Toyota recommended coolant type for the 2F engine and you’ll be golden.
 
It’s actually necessary unless you just like replacing them every year or two. The process of electrolysis will eat holes in the rqdiator pretty fast. I’m not a chemist and I don’t claim to have this right, but it’s my impression that old coolant types are not specifically designed with aluminum in mind. Back in the day the engine blocks were steel and radiators all brass. Now with aluminum blocks and radiators the new coolant is formulated to work with those systems. From my research, the new coolants will not be happy with the iron engine block. Aluminum can replace the brass so long as it’s grounded to keep electrical charge from building in the liquid. It’s as simple as running a copper wire from the core to the frame somewhere. They also sell a cap that has an electrode that’s designed to corrode over time. It takes the damage and is a part that’s suppose to be replaced every so often.

In short, ground your aluminum radiator and keep using the Toyota recommended coolant type for the 2F engine and you’ll be golden.
Actually, I was doing a little research and came across Champions radiator website and they specifically say not to use new long life coolant. They say aluminum does best with just regular old green coolant and not to use LL. They specifically said not to use toyota red.
 
Actually, I was doing a little research and came across Champions radiator website and they specifically say not to use new long life coolant. They say aluminum does best with just regular old green coolant and not to use LL. They specifically said not to use toyota red.
Link for those following along: What Coolant Color Should I Use In A Champion Radiator?
Looks like i'll be doing the ground line addition as I just replaced my CSF with a Champion about a month ago.
 
They also sell a cap that has an electrode that’s designed to corrode over time. It takes the damage and is a part that’s suppose to be replaced every so often.
Sacrificial anodes - the concept is also used in this application:

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We specified these when I was designing offshore platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. The aluminum keeps the steel platform jacket from corroding in the saltwater.
 
Hi John

Designing those rigs most have been a blast.

Topic whiplash: You ever run around in the Platoro CO area?
 
We did a loop in the '84 FJ60 years ago when our sons were young (the youngest turns 36 this weekend). We drove in and exited from the east. Up the Conejos River past Platoro Reservoir, over Stunner Pass, west to Elwood Pass, then north and east to Summitville, then down the Alamosa River. We stopped at Elwood Pass to stretch our legs and saw a herd of about 60 elk. Beautiful country.
 
John

I reckoned you'd been in that area. We liked it so much that Mary and I plan to go back and check it out in more detail.

Jim
 
Sacrificial anodes - the concept is also used in this application:

:photo:

We specified these when I was designing offshore platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. The aluminum keeps the steel platform jacket from corroding in the saltwater.

Cool! Were you just involved in designing the jacket / hull side stuff or topside components as well? Just curious, I'm on the process side of the business and offshore is growing like crazy right now!!
 
Cool! Were you just involved in designing the jacket / hull side stuff or topside components as well? Just curious, I'm on the process side of the business and offshore is growing like crazy right now!!
For my first platform (at age 24) I designed the jacket and piling, the monopod helideck, the firewall to isolate the gas compressor skid, the flareboom, and the living quarters modules. We hired a McDermott engineer to design the deck structure. The platform was in 340 feet of water 110 miles offshore. Later on I designed Texaco's new standard eight-pile deck structure. That was fun because I was given free rein with very few constraints. Just as I started the design the first W42X360 wide flange beams were being made available - 3-1/2 feet deep and 360 pounds per foot, so I used those for the main longitudinal top truss members. Another Texaco department was responsible for the process equipment, but we of course worked very closely with them.
 
And then in September 2010, a few months after Deepwater Horizon, this happened o_O:

Platform - Near.jpg


But it wasn't my fault, I swear. Confirmation that my platform was still producing oil and gas 30 years after it first went into production. The formal accident report:


This is a must read for anyone in the industry.

After first hearing about the accident on the news, something seemed a little familiar about the location. Sure enough, when this photo was published, I knew for a fact it was my platform.

Vermilion 380-A.jpg


Note the platform name on the helideck I designed - Vermilion Block 380-A.
 
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Actually, I was doing a little research and came across Champions radiator website and they specifically say not to use new long life coolant. They say aluminum does best with just regular old green coolant and not to use LL. They specifically said not to use toyota red.
Maybe I wasn’t clear, but that is what I was getting at.
 
Sacrificial anodes - the concept is also used in this application:

View attachment 2107754

We specified these when I was designing offshore platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. The aluminum keeps the steel platform jacket from corroding in the saltwater.
That’s cool, my uncles down in Louisiana work on those rigs. 6 weeks on 6 weeks off. They test mud to make sure it’s not going to explode.
 

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