14BT Rebuild (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Engine is looking great.

With a good efficient intercooler, you should be able to get some very good power out of that motor for sure.

That said, the stock injection pump may become a limitation at some point. What is the Denso part number on it? I see some of those motors with a 9mm plunger and others with a 12mm plunger. You can tell from the part number.
 
There is a little protrusion on most diesels :popcorn:pistons, and specifications should be available. As long as you measure and compensate by using thicker gaskets you will be OK. In extreem cases , pistons are cut down "topped" or rods shortened, but normally the gasket does it. something to do with the high compression ratio's, me thinks.

G
 
Engine is looking great.

With a good efficient intercooler, you should be able to get some very good power out of that motor for sure.

That said, the stock injection pump may become a limitation at some point. What is the Denso part number on it? I see some of those motors with a 9mm plunger and others with a 12mm plunger. You can tell from the part number.
The Toyota part number for the pump is 22100-5870 and corresponding Denso number is 096000-6100 11, where the 11 refers to 11mm plunger I believe. That should give plenty of fuel as I'm not chasing big numbers. I have mounted a cheap ebay FMI which drops the intake temps quite a bit. I get about a 2 psi drop across the intercooler, but I'm not too worried about that at this stage.
 
Quick question, and likely just an optical illusion, but, was the block decked? The pistons look proud of the surface?
Yes, the block was decked and as Gengis answered above, there are three different head gaskets depending on the piston protrusion.
 
Day... Something
Got most of the day Saturday on the engine and a couple of hours Sunday. Managed to get it back in and bolted up to the bell housing and engine mounts. Got most of the accessories attached except the radiator, fan clutch, alternator and air-conditioning compressor. Busy as this week at work, so won't be able to start him up until next Saturday, but can't wait to hear what he sounds like after the rebuild.... anyway, the photos can do the talking this time...
Rebuild123.png


Rebuild122.png


Rebuild121.png


Rebuild120.png
 
Also, before anyone spots it, I saw the turbo oil down pump gasket was hanging out and fixed it... lol
 
@crave reFleXion
Which rpm gauge do you use in this model ?
Its easy to find that black turbo intake pipe ?

This pipe coming down from the turbo is an oil return pipe ?
Mine LC is equipped with 14B. Looking for the differences and possible upgrades
 
When is the engine going to fire up?
 
What are all those dirty bolts along the RH side of the block?

Pressure plate looks rough. Are you not going to put new clutch parts in at the same time?

Like the blue block a lot.
 
@crave reFleXion
Which rpm gauge do you use in this model ?
Its easy to find that black turbo intake pipe ?

This pipe coming down from the turbo is an oil return pipe ?
Mine LC is equipped with 14B. Looking for the differences and possible upgrades
I'm using an aftermarket Autometer Diesel Tacho, the black turbo crossover pipe... not sure how hard it would be to find, but you could always do one out of stainless, and yes, the pipe coming down is an oil return line. Actually, the 14B block has a blank where the oil return pipe on a factory 14BT exists, so I'm sure you could work something out.
 
What are all those dirty bolts along the RH side of the block?

Pressure plate looks rough. Are you not going to put new clutch parts in at the same time?

Like the blue block a lot.
Which dirty bolts? If you mean the bolts above the oil cooler, they are for the valve lifters and camshaft bearing assembly. Pressure plate looks dirty, but was perfectly serviceable with hardly any wear. Likewise, the clutch had plenty of life left, so not really necessary to replace at this stage.
 
When is the engine going to fire up?
It's been running for a couple of weeks, but I've been flat out at work and I've had a few dramas with the rebuild which has also kept me busy. The first lot of run in oil I put through had low oil pressure (10-15psi), so the mechanic advised to put some 20-50 through during run in, which brought the pressure up to about 20psi, which is still under spec. He didn't seem too worried, but I wasn't impressed. I have put about 700km on the engine, and changed out the oil for some Penrite 20w60 (today). I haven't gone for a long drive, but it seems to be holding 28psi, which is spec.

The other issue I've been having is with the engine pushing coolant again and subsequently overheating. This was originally the main reason why I chose to rebuild the engine, and it has come back again... I've tried retarding the injection pump timing (started at 1.19 BTDC (according to FSM for the marinized version of the 14BT), then 1, then .9, then .8, then .7, but it hasn't fixed the issue like it did last time, so I'm a bit lost as to the cause.

One part of the problem I feel is the current cooling system setup, so I have decided to do some work to this next. I am replacing the radiator this week, as well as the thermostat housing because I think the current setup is exacerbating the issue. Currently the upper thermostat housing (blue tower in the photos) is almost level with the height of the radiator, which means that if a small amount of coolant is pushed, the flow across the top of the radiator is significantly reduced. I discovered this by using an infrared thermometer, which recorded 95 degrees where the coolant enters the radiator, but literally within 5 cm across the top tank the temperature had dropped to 50-60 degrees meaning there is virtually no flow across the top of the radiator, and therefore, not much of the radiator is doing its job. I still think that the pushing of coolant is a separate issue, but the current setup with the radiator certainly isn't helping.

I will be pulling the radiator this week and having a new 4-row copper core put in (the current one has had some damage to fins at some stage and I see this as a stitch in time sort of thing). I'll also be getting the radiator cap moved to the top of the radiator so it is the highest point in the system. I'm also getting a turbo coolant return line point plumbed in next to the upper radiator hose, and the lower exit for the radiator I'm having moved further towards the side of the tank because currently there is an awkward double 90 degree bend made of stainless which isn't helping with flow on the suction side of the system. I'm hoping this will all help the radiator to see more water flow. Currently, I think it is easier for the system to push coolant because of the heights associated with the radiator and current radiator cap on top of the thermostat housing. I have already purchased a replacement upper thermostat housing and a new thermostat (hi flow type).

After the rebuild I put some Liquid Intelligence 115 Coolant in as I felt it was a good opportunity since I knew that there would be zero water content in the engine after the rebuild. I don't know if this has had any impact on the issues I've been having and I am in two minds as to whether I should save it when I pull the radiator this week and reuse it, or if I should just go back to the normal red coolant I had in previously. Talking to the bloke who runs the company he suggested I might need to use a hi flow thermostat with it... I don't know about this aspect at the moment...

Anyway, so there you go... Not very happy about the whole situation at the moment, but I'll keep persevering until I figure it out...

Cheers.
 
Pushing cooling out the reservoir? Or leaks into oil etc.

RE: Oil Pressure, I have the opposite problem, struggle to keep mine down, but I figure since I push it so hard, more is better than less.
Only pushing coolant out the reservoir and bubbling... no water to oil or oil to water and no white smoke... It pushes less when the pump is brought back to between .7 - .9, but the problem is still there.
 
but it seems to be holding 28psi, which is spec.

This would be at the lower end? Most engines run around 50psi. Is this from a dash gauge or a mechanics gauge?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom