Break Booster delete - has anyone done it? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 5, 2018
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Location
The Woodlands, Texas
I find my breaks to be very inconsistent past 50% pedal push, sometimes they have to be mashed hard and sometimes the suck in with very little effort.

I deleted my bmw 2002 booster and love it. I think the Chase Bays kit would fit and I’m curious what you guys think. Potentially I would add ABS too.

 
Then you'll want to delete the power steering. 2002 don't need no power steering. Seriously, your inconsistent braking may likely be due to a failing booster. Fix the booster, don't delete it. I had my booster vac hose pop off once....not pretty.
 
Hmm interesting lack of interest from you guys. Essentially if I have a master cylinder small enough the brakes will feel the same in terms of pressure at the pedal. I don’t think my booster is failing, it’s just unpredictable near lock up and hard to find the line.

I had my power steering go out on me when pulling a 4000 lb trailer across the country and it was torcher.

Then you'll want to delete the power steering. 2002 don't need no power steering. Seriously, your inconsistent braking may likely be due to a failing booster. Fix the booster, don't delete it. I had my booster vac hose pop off once....not pretty.
 
Hmm interesting lack of interest from you guys. Essentially if I have a master cylinder small enough the brakes will feel the same in terms of pressure at the pedal. I don’t think my booster is failing, it’s just unpredictable near lock up and hard to find the line.

I had my power steering go out on me when pulling a 4000 lb trailer across the country and it was torcher.
Put an 80 series booster and master on. That’ll stop you and the trailer just as quick as any modern vehicle.
 
Inconsistent braking doesn't sound like a booster problem. Assuming the system is bled properly, i'ts more likely to be caused by the master cylinder or brake proportioning valve.
 
@Racer65 Actually I remember seeing a new aftermarket booster on your site. How do you think it stands up to the 80 series booster?
The one on my site has the proper amount of boost for a FJ60. In my opinion, the 80 series booster is over boosted when it's fitted on a 60 Series. As a result, the brakes will be more sensitive.
 
The one on my site has the proper amount of boost for a FJ60. In my opinion, the 80 series booster is over boosted when it's fitted on a 60 Series. As a result, the brakes will be more sensitive.
That’s right, but with fully loaded 60 not lighter than an 80.
 
Keep in mind that the fj60 system is designed for a booster. If you toss the booster and go full manual you are going to have to change more than the master cylinder(s). Your stock pedal is either not going to have the proper leverage for manual brakes or it’s not going to have the proper travel. We usually dump the boosters in our Saab rally cars but we have to go to a different brake pedal because of the mechanical advantage needed to actuate the brakes.

My vote is to go through your system and figure out what the root cause is and fix that.
 
Jordan-I don't know how old you are but my guess is, you are pretty inexperienced. If you had more experience, you would not ask this question.

The short answer is, eliminating the brake (note spelling) booster is a BAD IDEA. Extremely bad, and much worse than average for a person new to Land Cruisers. The 60 series is a heavy mofo, with barely adequate brakes at best. And that's when they are in top shape. The last, and I mean very last thing you want to do, is to make the brakes worse. Especially in the "80-100" percent range quoted on the website. Don't break your brakes. You are driving a heavy old school beast of a truck and one day you will need to really stop. Like instantly, before you run over the lady pushing the baby carriage. This is not a lightweight fun car on a race track.

Instead, you should use this opportunity to not cut corners, and go though your braking system, piece, by piece. Likely, everything is bad in it, from stuck, worn out rear shoes, to bad slave cylinders, to rusted out rear ebrake bellcranks, and all the way forward to your booster and master cylinder. Go through the system and fix/renew every part of it. And when you do, you'll realize why eliminating your booster is an extremely bad idea.

And this is priceless:

Potentially I would add ABS too.

Be serious. This isn't something you just "add". That's like saying "potentially, I'm going to add 500 horsepower".

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but keep your truck safe and easy to drive. Your 2 biggest concerns are brakes, and steering. If either of these are compromised, you should not be driving it on public streets.

Good luck in your Land Cruiser endeavours.
 
^^^ what he said. ;)

Drew put it more gently than I would have., ;)

Rather than trying to redesign your braking system for LESS performance, fix what is wrong with it. If you are still unhappy with it after it is working right, upgrade your front calipers and add disc to the rear. If you want ABS in your '60... the most cost effective approach is to sell it and buy an FZJ80

Mark...
 
lack of a booster is going to put you back a few decades in performance to true manual brakes which is not an improvement for this type of vehicle.
 
The one on my site has the proper amount of boost for a FJ60. In my opinion, the 80 series booster is over boosted when it's fitted on a 60 Series. As a result, the brakes will be more sensitive.
Would it improve braking power or brake feel to go from a stock single diaphragm booster to your dual diaphragm 60 booster?
 
What's the big deal with having no booster. I just wish Toyota would have made better pedals. I keep bending the damn things

2005399
 

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