Bolt on turbo kit (4 Viewers)

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The PeacePipe final resting place. This is the adapter manifold that replaces the 1FZ Oil Sender and makes a new home for the new OEM pressure sender(which I include), an aftermarket oil temp sender (which I include), and the oil pressure turbo feed line. There it is in all its glory. The oil feed hose would be on it but I decided to shorten it 2” because I wanted a cleaner looking sweep. I can’t leave good enough alone

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Is the Peace for sale on Wits End as it's own part?
I am interested in it as I want to add a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my truck.

I cannot find it on the site.
 
The fully welded downpipe is back and tested for leaks all good for testing. Making a new bracket that attaches to the downpipe and secures it to the bellhousing. Using an off the shelf stainless clamp and a flat bracket.

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The intake pipe from the MAF to the Intake is going 3”. Tried 3.5” but it comes in contact with the turbo blanket. So to prevent intentionally denting the pipe, just going to stay the same size as the air inlet to the canister.
 
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Where did we land with non-stock exhaust with this kit? Cat delete, aftermarket/bigger exhaust or just cut off somewhere shorter?
 
Put on a high-flowing exhaust and the turbo might spool too quickly for the stock computer to keep up with fuel demands. Running lean is bad for longevity of parts (read: makes stuff go boom). Stick with 2.5" exhaust unless you plan do a stand-alone fuel management.
 
Put on a high-flowing exhaust and the turbo might spool too quickly for the stock computer to keep up with fuel demands. Running lean is bad for longevity of parts (read: makes stuff go boom). Stick with 2.5" exhaust unless you plan do a stand-alone fuel management.
Yeah, i know. Thats why i brought it back up. Usual fixes are bigger wastegate. With low boost, you need a bigger gate to flow the air because the pressure is lower. I am sure he has thought of this though, seems his mo. I will be registering mine where there is no smog and my exhaust has 270k miles almost, so i will be changing it eventually and prob not running cats. It would be a deciding factor for me to ls swap if this kit can’t handle a 3” free flowing exhaust (example).


Only reason i am riding tge fence is: i have a 6.0, aftermarket wiring harness, 4l80e, winnter shifter and an exhaust desined for a ls swap toyota( it will need some modifications). Only thing i would need is time and adapters.

I like the toyota aspect of my truck though. No custom parts, no adapters, just parts that come on my truck, order them as needed and they fit. If i break down somewhere, i can source a factory or factory like part to get me home.
 
Where did we land with non-stock exhaust with this kit? Cat delete, aftermarket/bigger exhaust or just cut off somewhere shorter?

You probably will not see a cat delete on a CARB-Certified application.
 
Put on a high-flowing exhaust and the turbo might spool too quickly for the stock computer to keep up with fuel demands. Running lean is bad for longevity of parts (read: makes stuff go boom). Stick with 2.5" exhaust unless you plan do a stand-alone fuel management.

^ this. That being said, it was last week that I decided to add another V-band right after the wastegate but BEFORE the reducer to go to the cat. I will be shipping the complete downpipe with the section to the cat as 2.5”. But if you want 3” it’s crazy simple to remove the two v-bands and drop in a 3” section to supply your new 3” exhaust. But doing so is all on you. I supply the capability for folks to do what they want with exhaust but anything other than 2.5” is not only non-CARB but is non-warrantied. ;)
 
100%.

That being said, I can make a “test pipe” available for those who can’t weld at home. It just will NOT be part of the certified kit ;)


So this “test pipe” will go from the Y-pipe to after the cats?
Just a straight shot?
How will it attach to stock piping post cat?
Will loosing the cats effect back pressure like running too big of exhaust pipe?
 
So this “test pipe” will go from the Y-pipe to after the cats?
Just a straight shot?
How will it attach to stock piping post cat?
Will loosing the cats effect back pressure like running too big of exhaust pipe?

“Test pipe” removes front cat.
 
and OTRAMM’s stainless steel 2.5” exhaust looses the second cat. 😉😉

But why not run that “test” straight pipe another 12”-18”’s & bypass both cats? Just have it bolt to stock exhaust there?

Can this system run without cats, or is that too free flowing like 3” exhaust?
 
“Test pipe” removes front cat.

Um,

"The test pipe can be used as a temporary diagnostic tool for isolating driveability or performance issues."


:doh:
 
and OTRAMM’s stainless steel 2.5” exhaust looses the second cat. 😉😉

But why not run that “test” straight pipe another 12”-18”’s & bypass both cats? Just have it bolt to stock exhaust there?

Can this system run without cats, or is that too free flowing like 3” exhaust?

Yeah I’m not doing that :p
 
You probably will not see a cat delete on a CARB-Certified application.
I wasn’t asking him to supply anything other than his kit, i was curious if it could cause overboost issues if someone had a less restricted exhaust, in case someone had or wanted one. Cats or no cats.
 

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