2000 Tacoma rear Elocking diff, swap into front axle of my 80 (1 Viewer)

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Funny. The internals and especially the inner shafts of HP30's and HP44's are tiny in comparison to a D60. Not to mention the huge aftermarket support and parts availability that @slow95z mentioned

Yes, but I was comparing a HP 8" to a LP 9.5" differential(but didn't mention that), and their strength in a front axle application. There is no doubt that that the 60 also has huge tubes, shafts, C's and knuckles, which a stock 44 does not.

Seems that after you put decent shafts in a HP44 the crackling sound of the R&P seems to follow, in similar situations as a HP 8". Yet you put a LP 60 or 9.5 in the front and the problem doesn't appear nearly as quickly. Trying to find a spot to compare apple(ish).

How did the D30 and D44 talk get in here?

Don't forget D60 talk.

Because technical talk. HP D44 has close to a 8" RG, and a LP 60 has a 9.75" RG from what I recall? And we were comparing a HP 8" to a LP 9.5" Seems like a decent direction to compare R&P strengths.

I'm just trying to understand how a LP 9.5" is weaker than a HP 8" differential in a front axle application

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

That's it! I'm going IFS!

Yes!! Might as well run a sweet 7.5! Baja 80 coming soon??

 

[ChaseTruck]

...

Don't forget D60 talk...

I don't. I've got a 35-spline version in the K5, after I broke the original D44-equivalent 4 times (1 stub shaft, 2 u-joints, 1 ARB spider gear - that one happened at CruiseMoab, actually).

You know why it's called a Dana 60 - because she'll hit the rocks 60% of the time
At least that's what my 80-driving 'wheeling friends keep telling me...

I've been told the strength of the HP8 comes mainly from being intended as a front axle from the design stage onward, with the pinion contacting the gears on the drive side. Is that not the case?

 

[Enders]

I am eating some humble pie.

1) I was wrong about the steering clearence issue. What I envisioned was not what was written and please disregard my prior statement. I am sorry.

2) on the talk of strength and tolerances.
A) I’m not arguing a LP is inherently stronger or weaker than a HP.
B) I’m of the opinion that toyota engineers for what the intended use is. It seems to me that one would engineer a rear diff differently for a pickup and the front diff of a much heavier vehicle. There was also a significant price difference between the two, allowing for stronger materials and components. There was a huge torque difference between the 3.0 V6 and the 1FZ. I would find it surprising if the materials used in a taco e locker were similar in size and composition to the factory e locker, which is merely my opinion. I’ve got no facts, or experience cracking them open to lean on.

 

[I Lean]

I would find it surprising if the materials used in a taco e locker were similar in size and composition to the factory e locker, which is merely my opinion. I’ve got no facts, or experience cracking them open to lean on.

The HP8 and LP E-locker are VERY similar. They take the same carrier, the same bearing kit, and the R&P are the same size, although the teeth are cut differently because of the LP vs. HP.

 

[auttiman]

The HP8 and LP E-locker are VERY similar. They take the same carrier, the same bearing kit, and the R&P are the same size, although the teeth are cut differently because of the LP vs. HP.

So it would work as long as you retained the stock ring and pinion?

 

[slow95z]

So it would work as long as you retained the stock ring and pinion?

And removed your steering.

 

[nukegoat]

Does the low pinion toyota e-locker have DANA?

 

[chesshircat]

why anyone would want to swap in a factory locker is beyond me. do it right and go aftermarket.

I don't know why anyone wouldn't if they got a good deal on a factory elocker. Running one in the front is no different than any other 8" in the front, Toyotas been doing it since the beginning of time. The 80 series is the 1st hp, reverse cut that im aware of. Usually when a diff blows its from from impropper set up or abuse, anything is going to grenade in that situation. I've been running elocker up front of my mini for years, never any problems, used to snap shafts like twigs, now running RCV's. If i get one front and one rear tire try to go under rocks at the same time, i can feel the whole truck load up and twist. I'm getting rid of the grizzly rear and swapping in another elocker. Most of the problems with the factory elocker are in the actuator. They generally come from vehicles that never used them and are froze up, but if you tear them down and clean them up, they work great. Even better if you get the factory switch and computer, just push the button. Just my $.02.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Can’t believe no one has suggested this yet, just turn the LP upside down and bolt it in. Boom now you have a HP