To re-gear or not to re-gear? (1 Viewer)

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Reading some older build threads it seemed like many LC200 owners upgrading to bigger tyres would re-gear.

I haven’t seen it in any of the recent build threads - even the “kitchen sink” ones.

The Just Differentials landing page makes the arguement for doing it
- shift at the OEM shift points
- reduce driveline stress
- improve rear axle torque

Are there compelling arguments not to or is it just the effort and expense?

Some of the older threads suggested it was one of the better mods in terms of return on time/$$$ invested.

Any thoughts appreciated!
Thanks
 
Only one thing delaying my re-gear:
-Cost of gears, lockers, install.
If my wallet was fatter, it would been done quite some time ago.

With my 6 speed & big tires-
-6th gear easier to use on highway
-Far less use of torque converter
-Slower engine braking on steep, technical descents in 4Lo 1 with 35’s.
-restore power off the line
-All shift points make sense to computer again

Even with 33’s (mildly larger than stock), highway wind resistance with external mods means 6th gear is elusive.
 
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LOL, haven't used 6th gear in a long time. Last LCDC, coming back home, on a long downhill stretch, somewhere in Nevada.. :)

Any idea of when transfer case gears (for gear reduction) will be available for the 200? Fingers crossed for Marlin to start making them.
 
Really depends on a lot of factors, most importantly what year your truck is. If it's a 16+, I think there is just about zero need for a regear even with 34s at altitude like my setup. It's very hard to give an answer when we don't know anything about your goals, type of wheeling you do, type of driving you do, how much crap is bolted onto your truck, how big of a tire you want to go with, how heavy that tire is, etc. It's definitely not a cut and dry decision, unless of course you're a "hey look at me I call a 4x4 shop and tell them I have no budget!!" kinda dude, but even those guys rarely regear.
 
Really depends on a lot of factors, most importantly what year your truck is. If it's a 16+, I think there is just about zero need for a regear even with 34s at altitude like my setup. It's very hard to give an answer when we don't know anything about your goals, type of wheeling you do, type of driving you do, how much crap is bolted onto your truck, how big of a tire you want to go with, how heavy that tire is, etc. It's definitely not a cut and dry decision, unless of course you're a "hey look at me I call a 4x4 shop and tell them I have no budget!!" kinda dude, but even those guys rarely regear.

Apologies - a few more details.

“2017” LC200, plan is to try and achieve a lighter but still capable build.
- OEM bumpers and rack
- lowest lift to clear tyres
- 35s would be nice
- aluminium skid plates
- steel sliders
- no second battery (but larger single)
- no winch

Wheeling is muddy/rocky trails with the family on board. We like to explore and camp in out of the way places. Nothing highly technical - Mojave before Moab. Needs to be 1) robust and 2) capable of long highway miles and doing duty as a back-up “daily driver”

Budget is def an issue, obv the dream mod list is endless. Question is what to prioritise...
 
Apologies - a few more details.

“2017” LC200, plan is to try and achieve a lighter but still capable build.
- OEM bumpers and rack
- lowest lift to clear tyres
- 35s would be nice
- aluminium skid plates
- steel sliders
- no second battery (but larger single)
- no winch

Wheeling is muddy/rocky trails with the family on board. We like to explore and camp in out of the way places. Nothing highly technical - Mojave before Moab. Needs to be 1) robust and 2) capable of long highway miles and doing duty as a back-up “daily driver”

Budget is def an issue, obv the dream mod list is endless. Question is what to prioritise...

Skip the 35’s unless you don’t mind major headaches getting them to fit...even with steel bumpers.

I’ll be dumping my 35’s next go round.
285/75/17 for an inch narrower and almost as tall...
 
I often (fondly) look back at the time when my truck was below GVM (barely), was on 33s, but had gears and lockers. I decided to re-gear just because we were already doing front and rear lockers and it seemed like a thing worth doing. Now, the vehicle has larger tires and is so heavy that I'm looking at dramatic ways to either reduce weight or shore up the weakest link (which I deem to be the rear axle). Both then and now I don't feel that gears are necessary on the 2016 but they are certainly fun and notably improve the driving experience.

If I were in your shoes, I would keep the driveline as stock as possible and just consider gears for the fun of it if you're already cracking open the diffs for a locker or two.
 
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LOL, haven't used 6th gear in a long time. Last LCDC, coming back home, on a long downhill stretch, somewhere in Nevada.. :)

Any idea of when transfer case gears (for gear reduction) will be available for the 200? Fingers crossed for Marlin to start making them.

That would make the re-gear significantly cheaper.
Maybe @cruiseroutfit can work something like their 80/100-Series kits
 
2008 here, and 34's. Regearing was the best mod I've done. Not the first, and with a limited budget it might come towards the end of the list, but when I got mine done, the truck felt like it had new life. Night and day difference and I wish I'd done it much sooner.

Off the line is like stock. Offroad and downhill you rarely need to hit the brakes. If you have the money and plan to do it sometime, then just do it now and enjoy the experience.
 
That would make the re-gear significantly cheaper.
Maybe @cruiseroutfit can work something like their 80/100-Series kits

We've definitely looked into t-case gearing for the 200 but the case design is very different from the 4x-10x which lend themselves quite well to re-gearing internally with direct gear-to-gear action and an offset output train. The 200 uses a chain drive front output and an input/output shaft assembly that is directly in-line with the trans output. If someone has the ability to do a high-range reduction for the 200, it's going to be quite a bit more costly than the current options and likely be a different t-case housing altogether.

So, in the meantime we re-gear them to 4.88's and keep the full re-gear kits in stock along with the periphrial items we recommend get replaced "while you're in there".
 
Apologies - a few more details.

“2017” LC200, plan is to try and achieve a lighter but still capable build.
- OEM bumpers and rack
- lowest lift to clear tyres
- 35s would be nice
- aluminium skid plates
- steel sliders
- no second battery (but larger single)
- no winch

Wheeling is muddy/rocky trails with the family on board. We like to explore and camp in out of the way places. Nothing highly technical - Mojave before Moab. Needs to be 1) robust and 2) capable of long highway miles and doing duty as a back-up “daily driver”

Budget is def an issue, obv the dream mod list is endless. Question is what to prioritise...

Go with 33-34" tires and you won't ever need to touch your diffs with those mods. Read my build thread linked in my signature and you will see my build is similar yet a bit heavier and I regularly travel from 5k-12k+ feet elevation with absolutely zero issues with the diff gears. The 8 speed is excellent at handling 33-34" tires and light mods.
 
Go with 33-34" tires and you won't ever need to touch your diffs with those mods. Read my build thread linked in my signature and you will see my build is similar yet a bit heavier and I regularly travel from 5k-12k+ feet elevation with absolutely zero issues with the diff gears. The 8 speed is excellent at handling 33-34" tires and light mods.

The 8 speed is amazing. Even with the stock ratio diff (3.307:1) and 8speed, it's still lower in 1st gear than the 4.88 gears in the 6 speed (which had 3.909 from the factory). Really on a 16+, the 3.909's out of a 2008-15 would be a neat way to go.
 
Go with 33-34" tires and you won't ever need to touch your diffs with those mods. Read my build thread linked in my signature and you will see my build is similar yet a bit heavier and I regularly travel from 5k-12k+ feet elevation with absolutely zero issues with the diff gears. The 8 speed is excellent at handling 33-34" tires and light mods.

I read it already - I have been lurking IH8 for a while...

Tyre sizes are where I find my thinking going around in circles, the rest I am pretty set on.
 
We've definitely looked into t-case gearing for the 200 but the case design is very different from the 4x-10x which lend themselves quite well to re-gearing internally with direct gear-to-gear action and an offset output train. The 200 uses a chain drive front output and an input/output shaft assembly that is directly in-line with the trans output. If someone has the ability to do a high-range reduction for the 200, it's going to be quite a bit more costly than the current options and likely be a different t-case housing altogether.

So, in the meantime we re-gear them to 4.88's and keep the full re-gear kits in stock along with the periphrial items we recommend get replaced "while you're in there".

“Peripheral items” being lockers? Or is there more to do while we’re in there? Thx.
 
“Peripheral items” being lockers? Or is there more to do while we’re in there? Thx.

Sure, we stock all those too. :D

No, more things like CV axle seals, FIPG, diff gasket, housing o-ring, hub seals, etc. Things you don't want to have to swap later because they get buggered upon disassembly or re-assembly.
 
@cruiseroutfit , if you want to play around with a stock set of 3.90 gears I have mine out of an 08. Full diff up front and third member from the rear. Would let them go cheap if someone with a 16+ can use them
 
@cruiseroutfit , if you want to play around with a stock set of 3.90 gears I have mine out of an 08. Full diff up front and third member from the rear. Would let them go cheap if someone with a 16+ can use them

Oooooh, I like the sound of that. Ping me with a price for the whole lot.
 
For what its worth, if you need to go reaaaaaaaaally deep. Nitro just released 5.29's for the Tundra. So, with mods (such as an ARB or e-locker rear) one could run these in a 200 Series too. 40" tires anyone? :D
 
For what its worth, if you need to go reaaaaaaaaally deep. Nitro just released 5.29's for the Tundra. So, with mods (such as an ARB or e-locker rear) one could run these in a 200 Series too. 40" tires anyone? :D

I saw that on the Tundra forums and it seems a lot of the guys even running 34-35" tires are wanting to go 5.29 vs 4.88. I saw your post saying the 2016+ with the 8 speed 1st gear with stock gears is even lower than 1st gear in the 6 speed with 4.88's. Is there merit to the 5.29's in a rig that is still daily driven or are you going too far and creating new transmission/driveability issues at that point?
 
I saw that on the Tundra forums and it seems a lot of the guys even running 34-35" tires are wanting to go 5.29 vs 4.88. I saw your post saying the 2016+ with the 8 speed 1st gear with stock gears is even lower than 1st gear in the 6 speed with 4.88's. Is there merit to the 5.29's in a rig that is still daily driven or are you going too far and creating new transmission/driveability issues at that point?

I can't imagine any scenario an 8spd 200 would need 5.29's, but it's an option. 4.88's are going to be far more suitable for most 6spd owners.

Fwiw we towed a trailer, with a heavily loaded 8spd 200 (8000lbs) at nearly 17k feet, it still had power. The 3.5L Tacoma on the otherhand :D
 

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