Sedalia
SILVER Star
Here are my notes for TPMS that I hope will save someone from searching and reading long threads. Let me know if I got something wrong. Is there a curated section/sticky, wiki, or index for consolidated tech write-ups?
Quick Facts
1. TPMS are radio signal transmitters, like RFID, that replace a normal valve stem of a wheel. They may have rubber stems that “snap” into place or have metal stems and screw collar/nut.
2. Land Cruiser reads 315Mhz. Some vehicles read 433Mhz so the sensors used other vehicles may not work.
3. Some wheels require that TPMS sensors are either mounted at an angle or straight so OEM sensors may not fit other wheels and vice-versa.
4. OEM and OEM replacement sensors are pre-programmed with a unique ID. Obviously necessary so cars do not mistake TPMS signals from other nearby cars.
5. The sensor ID is printed on the TPMS device; the part that is inside the tire. The ID can be read remotely with a device specifically made for this purpose.
6. The sensor IDs must be registered with the car. This is accomplished as DIY with TechStream software+cable or another vehicle programming device.
7. Follow the "Initializing Tire Pressure Warning System" instructions found in the Owners Manual to reset the tire location after mounting or rotating, so the display will show you which TPMS ID is associated with each wheel position (left-front, spare, etc)
Changing wheels
1. If you need to replace your OEM wheels, you can usually just remove the OEM TPMS sensor from the old wheels and install them on the new wheels. This may not work if the new wheel requires an angled sensor.
2. You can buy new OEM sensors or buy aftermarket pre-programmed sensors. Tire stores should always have the latter in stock.
3. If new sensors, the vehicle will need to be programmed with the new IDs.
Multiple wheels sets
1. It is nice to have a second set of mounted wheels so, for example, you can quickly remove your pavement-friendly wheels and replace them with mud terrains for the weekend, or vice-versa for a road trip. Very fast procedure with a floor jack and impact wrench, especially if you always keep the mud terrain as the spare tire, assuming it is the same diameter as the street tires.
2. The options for the 2nd set are:
How to clone TPMS
You can simply have a tire shop do this for you. The service will be cheap or free. The cost of the sensors may vary, but probably not too expensive so I doubt DIY will save you much money, but I will explain how I do it with the equipment I use.
1. The cheapest, mainstream, programmable sensors I found are the single-frequency Autel MX-sensor. They make dual frequency models, but I only need 315Mhz for the TLC. They have a swivel mount that can be mounted on just about any wheel angle. Mine have a metal stem, which is sturdy and looks nice, although I suppose it might break more easily than a rubber stem? I only have this brand and type of TPMS, along with my set of OEM. They cost +/-$30 each.
2. There are various TPMS readers and programming devices that work with Autels, so you can be pretty sure any tire shop can service them. Basic TPMS read/program devices usually cost around $150+, but the shops use a more expensive type that can also register the TPMS IDs with the vehicle.
3. I use the Autel MaxiTPMS Pad, which of course I call the maxipad. It is only $70 but requires a PC. I have an old laptop dedicated to diagnostics. It works great. No batteries or buttons to fuss with. Only a little pad and a USB cable. All it does is read TPMS IDs and data and programs new sensors. It is so simple and intuitive that I will not bother with instructions. You can literally read and clone with a couple of mouse clicks.
Here is a photo of my maxipad:
Quick Facts
1. TPMS are radio signal transmitters, like RFID, that replace a normal valve stem of a wheel. They may have rubber stems that “snap” into place or have metal stems and screw collar/nut.
2. Land Cruiser reads 315Mhz. Some vehicles read 433Mhz so the sensors used other vehicles may not work.
3. Some wheels require that TPMS sensors are either mounted at an angle or straight so OEM sensors may not fit other wheels and vice-versa.
4. OEM and OEM replacement sensors are pre-programmed with a unique ID. Obviously necessary so cars do not mistake TPMS signals from other nearby cars.
5. The sensor ID is printed on the TPMS device; the part that is inside the tire. The ID can be read remotely with a device specifically made for this purpose.
6. The sensor IDs must be registered with the car. This is accomplished as DIY with TechStream software+cable or another vehicle programming device.
7. Follow the "Initializing Tire Pressure Warning System" instructions found in the Owners Manual to reset the tire location after mounting or rotating, so the display will show you which TPMS ID is associated with each wheel position (left-front, spare, etc)
Changing wheels
1. If you need to replace your OEM wheels, you can usually just remove the OEM TPMS sensor from the old wheels and install them on the new wheels. This may not work if the new wheel requires an angled sensor.
2. You can buy new OEM sensors or buy aftermarket pre-programmed sensors. Tire stores should always have the latter in stock.
3. If new sensors, the vehicle will need to be programmed with the new IDs.
Multiple wheels sets
1. It is nice to have a second set of mounted wheels so, for example, you can quickly remove your pavement-friendly wheels and replace them with mud terrains for the weekend, or vice-versa for a road trip. Very fast procedure with a floor jack and impact wrench, especially if you always keep the mud terrain as the spare tire, assuming it is the same diameter as the street tires.
2. The options for the 2nd set are:
a. No TPMS in those wheels. Tire shops may not do this, due to legal and other liability, unless you bring them off the vehicle. No TPMS means the car will display a permanent warning and, of course, not give you any air pressure data.
b. Get another set of pre-programmed TPMS sensors for the 2nd set. Then you will need to use TechStream or another device to change the IDs in the car’s computer every time you swap wheel sets. This adds a few minutes to the process, assuming your programming device is ready. Some vehicles can retain memory of multiple TPMS sets, but I am unaware of any Land Cruiser vintage that can do this.
c. “Clone” the sensors from the first set so that you no longer have the use TechStream, or whatever, to re-register the TPMS IDs with the car every time you change a wheel or wheel set. This is accomplished by purchasing programmable sensors, which can be programmed to the same IDs as the other wheel set(s). The car does not know the difference between the original and clone TPMS sensor. You will get faulty readings and probably errors if the car detects two sensors with the same ID, e.g., if you park near the clones or you mount two wheels with the same ID on the car.
How to clone TPMS
You can simply have a tire shop do this for you. The service will be cheap or free. The cost of the sensors may vary, but probably not too expensive so I doubt DIY will save you much money, but I will explain how I do it with the equipment I use.
1. The cheapest, mainstream, programmable sensors I found are the single-frequency Autel MX-sensor. They make dual frequency models, but I only need 315Mhz for the TLC. They have a swivel mount that can be mounted on just about any wheel angle. Mine have a metal stem, which is sturdy and looks nice, although I suppose it might break more easily than a rubber stem? I only have this brand and type of TPMS, along with my set of OEM. They cost +/-$30 each.
2. There are various TPMS readers and programming devices that work with Autels, so you can be pretty sure any tire shop can service them. Basic TPMS read/program devices usually cost around $150+, but the shops use a more expensive type that can also register the TPMS IDs with the vehicle.
3. I use the Autel MaxiTPMS Pad, which of course I call the maxipad. It is only $70 but requires a PC. I have an old laptop dedicated to diagnostics. It works great. No batteries or buttons to fuss with. Only a little pad and a USB cable. All it does is read TPMS IDs and data and programs new sensors. It is so simple and intuitive that I will not bother with instructions. You can literally read and clone with a couple of mouse clicks.
a. You must download the software from the Autel website to get the latest version. The software will also automatically update the pad’s firmware, if required.
b. The pad is designed to be used on the bench, placing the unmounted TPMS sensors on pad for reading and programming. You can also hold the pad to the sidewall near the TPMS on a mounted tire, which is what I do to read OEM IDs.
Here is a photo of my maxipad:
Last edited: