Windshield washer diverter valve (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

I know this has been mentioned before, but I couldn't find any pictures, and since everyone loves pictures...

Since spring has come (once again this year) to North Carolina, I decided to do a little PM/RM on the fleet. Both my '94 and '95 leak over the rear window when I use the windshield washer. For the longest time, I was convinced the fault was in the multifunction switch and had been putting it off because I just didn't want to get into the steering wheel.

However, this wasn't the case. Here's the culprit (DS inner fender, near the lower hood gas spring mount):

For those of you following along at home, the part number is 85321 60050, $53.00 (list) from Mr. T; same number for both years.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to salvage the '95s valve. The diaphragm was too deteriorated. (no, I'm not a nationally celebrated hand model)

 

[flagstaff]

I have had two Land cruisers and replaced both. I never found anything aftermarket. The only place I found it was the dealer.

 

[jonheld]

On my LX450, when I hit the rear washer it sprays out the front. I might have to sell the truck now.

 

[johnalex]

Mine is clogged and leaks whenever the washer pump is activated. Going to take it apart now.

 

[ThomasMore66]

I just ordered my diverter valve a few days ago.

This is from Slee's 80's Newbie Guide:

"For those of you who watched with interest the thread on repairing the little diverter valve to fix the rear washer problem - it works.

The part was waiting on me when I got home from work today. I think it was around $30 from James Rodriguez. It's special order, so he has to order to get it, but that's just an extra day.

The gizmo is part # 85321-60050 "Valve, Washer". It is about the size of your big toe and has a bracket integral to the design. It has one hose coming out of it (off the top center, about 2 feet) that goes to the front washer connection on the hood. On the bottom it has two hose connections (bottom center and rear side) along with one electrical plug. It's only a matter of removing the bolt, unhooking the two hoses from the valve, unhooking the hose from the hood and snaking it out of it's connectors and it's out. Took me all of 5 minutes.

When I went to test it, I was amazed. My truck had always (for me) washed the front window about as much as it washed the back window. Now there isn't a drop of washer fluid on the front when I wash the back. A truly amazing thing from my perspective.

Being a cheap rascal, I will take the old one apart and see if it could
be repaired. Someone earlier reported trying this without success, so I'm not anticipating it working. If it happens to, I'll report my success.

So if anyone else wants to get fluid back to the rear window, get this
subassembly installed and fix it right up.

Good luck,
Juice"

 

[johnalex]

And...it looks like your photo. Time to order a new one. Thanks!

 

[ThomasMore66]

Mine is ready for pick-up at Toyota of Dallas.

 

[Red Merle]

See, this is what separates Toyota people from everyone else. Learning about the common failure points on trucks that are all pushing 300,000 miles is fun. It's also incredible that we can just stop by the nearest Mr. T dealership and order parts en masse for these trucks. You just can't do that for any other make other than maybe Honda. Most companies will give you 5 years of support and then after that, you are on your own.

Anyway, rant over. I need this on my truck. I have the same issue. I also learned today that the sunroof is designed to stop about 3 inches of the way from closed. I would have spent a lifetime tracking all of this stuff down on my own. You folks just make it so easy to own these machines.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Just replaced mine. Works perfect. Replaced the coin tray with the Toyota cup holder and the tailgate struts. It's the little things.

 

[shocktower]

I took one out of the parts rig and it failed too, now I have 2 to take apart and maybe fix

 

[ThomasMore66]

Just buy a new one and be done!

 

[Rifleman]

here's a link to an aftermarket valve another mud member said would work to replace the factory one.
Texas Industrial Remcor 3-Way 12 Volt DC Solenoid Valve, 1/4" NPT::Weather Pak - Dultmeier Sales
here's a link to the original mud thread about that aftermarket valve
Replacement for Rear Wiper Diverter Valve

 

[junior80]

Might have to call Beno again for this part. $86.00 from Sydney Toyota.

 

[ThomasMore66]

It's worth it

 

[MHPhotog]

OK, So after the diverter valve what is the next step?

a. I replaced the diverter valve with a brand new Toyota diverter.
b. When I press for front washer fluid - i get front and back fluid
c. When I press for rear washer fluid - i get only rear fluid
d. I tried two brand new diverter valves and both do exactly the same thing

I can only think of two possible problems

1. I randomly got 2 new Toyota diverter valves that were defective in exactly the same way - I think this is pretty unlikely. Especially when you consider that my original valve (which apparently was still working) did exactly the same thing, which is why I replaced it.

2. There is an electrical problem. Something that should be activating the diverter valve isn't working, does anyone know what what voltage I should be reading on the two pin connector that attaches to the diverter valve?

Or is there something else to check?

Update:

OK, I checked voltage going into the diverter.

Pin 1:
Car off - 0.00v
Accessory - 11.6v
Rear Washer - 11.0v
Front Washer - 11.5v

Pin 2:
Car off - 0.0v
Accessory - 11.6v
Rear Washer - 0.4v
Front Washer - 1.5v

 

[ThomasMore66]

Wow. I froze mine with a poor mix of summer and -30, but I’ve never seen that problem.

 

[HardyDanger]

I came to accept the dribble out back, in fact I decided to design for it. After attempting to service the diverter, I just deleted it and replaced with this. The genius of this was that I could have full flow to the front, and a dribble to the back, which is still enough to wash the rear if you want or just let it dribble. You just clip the T for full flow to the front, and leave the reducer in place for the back line. Easy peasy $2 part at AutoZone.

 

[rolliges]

What is this part called?

Sometimes a dribble is enough....

 

[MHPhotog]

I came to accept the dribble out back, in fact I decided to design for it. After attempting to service the diverter, I just deleted it and replaced with this. The genius of this was that I could have full flow to the front, and a dribble to the back, which is still enough to wash the rear if you want or just let it dribble. You just clip the T for full flow to the front, and leave the reducer in place for the back line. Easy peasy $2 part at AutoZone. View attachment 1888656

That definitely sounds like it works... and a cleaver way to get full power to the front. I may have to go that route if I can't find the cure.

 

[HardyDanger]

What is this part called?

Sometimes a dribble is enough....

Ughhh, I wish I knew. I just walked into AutoZone looking for a T-barb, and found it. The pic I grabbed for the post was a google search for Universal Vacuum T-Barb. Dribbles to ya'