Builds 76 Project Silver Back (2 Viewers)

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Shout out to @Julie2006 at Anchor Stitch for an awesome bikini top! Much better than Best Top. Great quality and great customer service. Now I think I’m ready to pull the trigger on one of her soft tops. My Hardtop Resto is taking way to long.
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Squeezed in a little Crusier time this weekend.

Started putting together my cooler mount for my swing out bumper. Kinda winging it as I go. This will hold a Yeti Tundra 35 and will be bolted to the passenger side arm.

Here are most of the parts.
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I milled some slots so the angular mounts will lock in to position before I start welding.
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Mounting tabs.
This will make it very strong once it’s welded together.
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Basket tacked together.
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Bottom mount tacked together.

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I was stoked to see this basket design, as I’m in the planning stage for mine. I like the angle mounts and I’m ashamed to say I had been thinking of something much to convoluted. Oh how I wish I had access to a tubing bender and mill, for that matter I need to be a better welder too. I am curious about your thoughts on the bracket to mount to the swing arm- will it wrap around the back of the swing arm? I was thinking of something like 4x4Labs bracket, but maybe that’s overkill.
 
I was stoked to see this basket design, as I’m in the planning stage for mine. I like the angle mounts and I’m ashamed to say I had been thinking of something much to convoluted. Oh how I wish I had access to a tubing bender and mill, for that matter I need to be a better welder too. I am curious about your thoughts on the bracket to mount to the swing arm- will it wrap around the back of the swing arm? I was thinking of something like 4x4Labs bracket, but maybe that’s overkill.

My bracket is a piece of 1/4” steel bent at 90 degree with the inside radius matching the outside radius of the swing arm. As of right now, I am leaving it bolted to the arm. If I feel that it may not be strong enough, I might just weld it to the arm. Heck I should have made a piece of channel to fit of the arm like the 4x4 Labs. Thanks for the ideal, maybe I’ll do this instead.
 
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Late Christmas present,

These Real Steel bows are really nice. Being somewhat of a fabricator myself, I can’t imagine much mark up on these. The amount of time that must go into these has to be a lot. Very impressed with the quality.

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The fit seems to be really nice too!

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I put a set of the RS bows on mine last year and they are great quality. If you plan on using later year hard doors you'll need to modify the length of the bow between the B pillars. If I recall I removed about an inch and bent the pillars in slightly to match the door profile. There is a thread on here somewhere that gives more specifics. I mounted my doors and fit everything before I had the bows powder coated.
 
I put a set of the RS bows on mine last year and they are great quality. If you plan on using later year hard doors you'll need to modify the length of the bow between the B pillars. If I recall I removed about an inch and bent the pillars in slightly to match the door profile. There is a thread on here somewhere that gives more specifics. I mounted my doors and fit everything before I had the bows powder coated.


Yes, this is the plan. Trying to locate a good thread on this very subject. How will bending the b pillar in and shortening the bow effect the soft top? Will this leave excess soft top material on both sides?

Did you have to re-drill the rear bow feet?
The don’t seem to match the factory holes.

Thanks for the info.
 
Yes, the rear feet needed to be re-drilled since they didn't match on my 78. I only shortened the B bow and it had no effect on the top fit.

Since my top was new from Julie, I was able to install it so that it was tight all the way around. You need to take your time and really pull things tight and get it to fit well before you drill any of the holes for the soft top twist fasteners. There is a special tool for cutting the holes that makes that part so much easier.

Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969
 
Yes, the rear feet needed to be re-drilled since they didn't match on my 78. I only shortened the B bow and it had no effect on the top fit.

Since my top was new from Julie, I was able to install it so that it was tight all the way around. You need to take your time and really pull things tight and get it to fit well before you drill any of the holes for the soft top twist fasteners. There is a special tool for cutting the holes that makes that part so much easier.

Sailrite - Fabric, Canvas, and Sewing Machines Since 1969

Thanks for your input. My top is new from Julie too. I will keep that in mind when I go to fit the top.

Did you cut the B pillar bow since it will no longer pass through the sheet metal body after it’s been cut, bent and re-welded to match the angle of the doors?

Not my pic.
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Did you cut the B pillar bow since it will no longer pass through the sheet metal body after it’s been cut, bent and re-welded to match the angle of the doors?

Not my pic.

That's the picture I saw when I was doing this, and is obviously exaggerated to show the change in shape. I thought I was going to have to cut the pillar like that, but I started with removing an inch from the bow and checked the fit with the doors. In my case it moved them in enough that the profile matched enough for me and didn't feel the need to cut the pillar and re-weld. I would start with that step and see if it's a good enough fit. Your rig is nicer than mine so you may want to take the extra steps.
 
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Late Christmas present,

These Real Steel bows are really nice. Being somewhat of a fabricator myself, I can’t imagine much mark up on these. The amount of time that must go into these has to be a lot. Very impressed with the quality.

View attachment 1886256

The fit seems to be really nice too!

View attachment 1886257
Looks like it's really close to being finished. Looks awesome. Have you started it?
 
Looks like it's really close to being finished. Looks awesome. Have you started it?

Yes, just a ton of loose ends. I made the decision to go ahead and purchase a soft top to help me get it on the road faster. I figure I can always come back and tinker with the hard top.

It runs awesome! I have had it on a few test drives (without the dog house), and I am very happy how much power it has. The NV4500 transmission shifts very nice too!

So close I can taste it. Just not enough time in the day. (Kids, House, Work). It’s killing me not being able to drive it!
 
Yes, just a ton of loose ends. I made the decision to go ahead and purchase a soft top to help me get it on the road faster. I figure I can always come back and tinker with the hard top.

It runs awesome! I have had it on a few test drives (without the dog house), and I am very happy how much power it has. The NV4500 transmission shifts very nice too!

So close I can taste it. Just not enough time in the day. (Kids, House, Work). It’s killing me not being able to drive it!
Yeah all the little stuff takes a lot of time to finish up. At least its winter anyway, so not much you could do with it if it was all ready to go anyway.
 
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‘Headlight bucket screws’? Are you referring to the long ones used to adjust the beam direction and have that section where the spring attaches...or are you referring to the nylon inserts?
 
‘Headlight bucket screws’? Are you referring to the long ones used to adjust the beam direction and have that section where the spring attaches...or are you referring to the nylon inserts?

Yes, the long ones. I have the inserts.
 

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