Builds The Warthog v4.4 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I broke apart the 1981 2F donor and loaded it up and took it to the science lab at Mosley Motors

1c4d0b8c-5aec-4b00-892b-c022ec45ce3f-jpeg.1842085


Upon arrival I watched at #ETAF and the mad scientist inspected the bounty to determine worthiness

10880e83-1ef9-4302-9ac7-ad7d20862335-jpeg.1849031


2df5bf3d-18ba-48ad-aaee-c51f06f98cd3-jpeg.1849030

The motor was torn down without any major surprises. It was pretty rusty on the outside and inside the coolant passages, but the inside was clean. All of the bearings were still in great shape.

A few of the rings had rusted to the bore and left some pitting, but that will get bored out to new metal anyway, so no biggie.

9C674563-B15D-459B-8620-8CAA24D46F96.jpeg


One of the oil pan bolts had become one with the block, but welding a nut to the remains had it out in no time.

F96D6E25-1EA3-43BA-96D9-DEC1DD1EE15D.jpeg


D9D17BBD-E91F-42A0-9A0B-33688DAE52BC.jpeg


C7EF70E3-EE30-4BCA-B835-F537917C3F37.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Impressive project... subscriber :D
 
Before teardown - does it turn over? Any obvious trauma under the valve cover? While tearing down - anything bent/damaged?

Once at the machine shop, they’re checked for cracks, and any wear past the point of being correctable by machining.

Then they’re checked for flatness. This block had high/low spots and had to be decked, while the last one was fine. This head had a slight twist, so it had to be decked slightly to get a good starting point. That seems to be par for the course with heads.
 
Once the motor was disassembled, the block & head went to the machine shop, the cam went to Delta to be reground, and the crank went to a local racing cam/crank shop.

The main machine shop was able to jump in & get started right away. They guy that does these gets excited because it’s not the usual routine, boring stuff.

The crank shop, however, was over two months out. Apparently it’s racing season, and they are swamped. This was not going to work for Nolen. I’m slow enough already, and he has the patience of a golden retriever, so I needed to throw the ball. Quick.

All of the bearings looked excellent, as did the crank, so the main shop said they’d polish the surfaces and check the clearances for standard size bearings. With fingers crossed I left the crank place knowing it be even longer of a wait if I had to return later.
 
I asked the guys to CC the heads before/after the valves to see what kind of compression ratio we had as a baseline. We measured the new & old headgaskets (for squish), used new & old piston sizes and ran it all through the calculator.

On the last one, we did not shave the head very much and just kinda guessed at how many CC’s the bigger domestic valves added or subtracted.

We are using some top-secret valves & springs (a little bigger & lighter than the SBC valves), same as last time. On the last one, they just cut the seats for the new valves...

98315FF0-EC58-44F9-938D-0B31FC151559.jpeg


This time, they went to town with the CNC valve machine and worked over the hard edges. This further affected the chamber size and reinforced the need to measure before milling.

D546F362-08D6-4A4B-87C3-5381D2E1115F.jpeg


E6929B3A-5B3A-4E6C-B15B-DA2E82D4F884.jpeg


(big block work pictured, not the actual 2F)

C609F067-BEE5-46B1-8844-05D7549D0BAC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
After the valve seat work, we had actually lost some compression due to the increased volume. They called the supplier & found a set of valves with a flatter face to take some volume back out.

I haven’t seen any hard data with actual calculated (only speculated) compression ratios vs. end results (timing, lowest usable grade of gas, etc), so we’re going to try 9:1 on this one. Not too crazy, but a considerable boost over stock, and we want to run the cheap stuff.

With that in mind, they’ll make a test cut & CC the chambers to see how much volume they lose per thousandth milled down so we land can land right where we want to.
 
Last edited:
Figuring I better get the engine covers cleaned and painted, I decided to just have them blasted & powder coated to save time and effort.

I think I found the right shop...

498C3E47-4ED8-4198-9860-0CCC42D0A967.jpeg


28BC480B-616D-4E78-BC25-FFCD447CF818.jpeg
 
Have any of these blocks ever needed line bored? What about balancing the rotating assembly including flywheel?

I haven’t had to line bore one yet, we’ll see in the future.

We are skipping the balancing... I don’t have his flywheel, and the crank guy is two months out before he can check it. The machine shop doesn't recommend anyone else in town. Since the bearings looked so good, I’m making the assumption that the crank was spinning pretty true & smoothly. If they were trashed or there was uneven wear, I wouldn’t take this gamble. I trust my machine shop's judgement on all of this, and ultimately let them make the judgement calls.

Inline 6 crank balance doesn't change by going to bigger pistons, but I will double-check the rod weights before assembly. The factory Toyota pistons are all very consistent:

 
Good news - the cam showed up today :bounce::bounce2:

Better news - Everything else is pretty much done. We just needed the cam to fit the bearings.
 
Not-so-good news - we got back a three piece cam, not the one-piece we sent off...

9D8F3532-DA72-4239-89AE-925C7EB92A08.jpeg
 
Yep. Total buzzkill.

They’re going to grind/send another, so at least this is only a time loss.


That sucks, they sent mine in a super sturdy box. The USPS must have been playing football with that box.
 
Almost inconceivable in two pieces. In three pieces? Inconceivable.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom