Any updates on the completed project? Did you end up locking the front? Did you leave the A-trac alone?
Adding F/R lockers to 2003 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sdnative
- Start date
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On to the front...
After thinking about it some more, I am finding it hard to justify the cost of the front locker. I will most likely just replace the gears at this point. Already have an appt with Zuk.
Took the diff out today. It was actually much easier than I had anticipated. Maybe 4-5 hours in my garage with common tools to get everything apart. Here is the third, looks like 8 teeth on the ring gear are broken.
I went through the same thing. But honestly a rear locker with atrac upfront has been amazing. Still have great turning radius and "locks" when I need it
When I inquired about the lockers and how they work together with ATRAC ,basically all the answers I got were: you don't touch ATRAC and ATRAC shouldn't ever need to activate if the lockers are turned on because there shouldn't be any individual wheel slip if the lockers are working properly. So in short, ATRAC should not interfere with lockers.
- Thread starter
- #64
Everything is done mechanically, just need to complete installing the wiring harness up into the interior and up to under the dash. I ran the harness through the back temporarily to test and make sure everything worked, now just need to route it properly.
I did not add a locker to the front, just re-geared to 4:30. A-trac is untouched.
Looking forward to seeing the remainder of the install.
- Thread starter
- #66
Update: discovered my battery went dead after sitting for two weeks. On investigation, I narrowed it down to a 50mA parasitic draw from the diff lock ECU. I am wiring the diff lock circuit directly off the battery through a 20A fuse, and not from an ignition switched source.
I do not know what is happening internal to the circuit circled in red, but I suspect the leak is from wiring +12V to pin 8 of the diff lock ECU (to defeat 4WD safety). So until I can find an ignition switched source, I will simply remove the 20A fuse until I need it.
If anyone is using the factory ECU, be aware of this.
I do not know what is happening internal to the circuit circled in red, but I suspect the leak is from wiring +12V to pin 8 of the diff lock ECU (to defeat 4WD safety). So until I can find an ignition switched source, I will simply remove the 20A fuse until I need it.
If anyone is using the factory ECU, be aware of this.
Hi all, I don't mean to hijack this thread just trying to be helpful correct a couple of statements here for anyone trying to undertake this endeavor.
I did this with my 2001 ATRAC LC except I did a total axle swap. My LC is triple locked, with a TJM air locker in the front and a 99 elocked axle.
1) Although the ATRAC version uses different brake line circuits between the 99 and ATRAC models at the brakes and axle is still just one line to each side meeting at exactly the same spot so it's a moot point. The axles are direct swaps there is I believe one brake line mount that is in a different place that's it. From hydraulics and mechanical installation, it's a direct drop no modifications needed.
2) Complete axle swap is not difficult, I think I did the entire swap in 6 hours by my self with HF rolling dollies. Unbolt shocks, control arms, brake lines, and shaft, roll out old & roll in replacement axle under truck and bolt everything back up including brake lines and plug abs sensors. I was driving the truck the same day.
3) As for electronics if you use the stock computer and wire it as intended you will not be able to lock unless you are in 4LO you will also be speed limited. If you use a standard elocked switch you avoid these nuisances. I used slee locking cpu stock switch.
I admire this different way of locking the rear axle, but I definitively see a lot more work involved than a straight swap.
I will say that having both ATRAC and triple locked makes a difference. There have been times where lockers worked when ATRAC didn't and there have been times where my ATRAC gave me more control than the lockers.
Just 2 cents. Cheers
Edited.
I did this with my 2001 ATRAC LC except I did a total axle swap. My LC is triple locked, with a TJM air locker in the front and a 99 elocked axle.
1) Although the ATRAC version uses different brake line circuits between the 99 and ATRAC models at the brakes and axle is still just one line to each side meeting at exactly the same spot so it's a moot point. The axles are direct swaps there is I believe one brake line mount that is in a different place that's it. From hydraulics and mechanical installation, it's a direct drop no modifications needed.
2) Complete axle swap is not difficult, I think I did the entire swap in 6 hours by my self with HF rolling dollies. Unbolt shocks, control arms, brake lines, and shaft, roll out old & roll in replacement axle under truck and bolt everything back up including brake lines and plug abs sensors. I was driving the truck the same day.
3) As for electronics if you use the stock computer and wire it as intended you will not be able to lock unless you are in 4LO you will also be speed limited. If you use a standard elocked switch you avoid these nuisances. I used slee locking cpu stock switch.
I admire this different way of locking the rear axle, but I definitively see a lot more work involved than a straight swap.
I will say that having both ATRAC and triple locked makes a difference. There have been times where lockers worked when ATRAC didn't and there have been times where my ATRAC gave me more control than the lockers.
Just 2 cents. Cheers
Edited.
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04 with arb’s.
DAC (DA Compressor) button controls the air compressor.
Engage in milliseconds and work like a champ.
Only challenge is there are no lights that indicate on and off.
DAC (DA Compressor) button controls the air compressor.
Engage in milliseconds and work like a champ.
Only challenge is there are no lights that indicate on and off.
Those switches look to be in a bad position
The gray ones? They are no longer in use and were there prior to my ownership.
Yeah. Knee stabbers
- Thread starter
- #73
So far so good. Seat of the pants the truck feels lighter and quicker acceleration. I was getting about 220-230 miles to the tank and am now averaging 240-250.
I only re-geared the front and reused the factory rear third member so that's why I kept 4.30. If I was re-gearing both front and rear I would probably have gone with 4.56 for the 33" tires depending on cost and availability. The truck could use a little extra gearing when fully loaded but it is very acceptable overall. I will be making a trip soon and will be loaded (7000+ lbs) and can report back on performance.
Keep in mind I have the 5 spd transmission. The 4.30 gears, 5 spd and 285/75R16 tires puts the gearing very close to stock.
I only re-geared the front and reused the factory rear third member so that's why I kept 4.30. If I was re-gearing both front and rear I would probably have gone with 4.56 for the 33" tires depending on cost and availability. The truck could use a little extra gearing when fully loaded but it is very acceptable overall. I will be making a trip soon and will be loaded (7000+ lbs) and can report back on performance.
Keep in mind I have the 5 spd transmission. The 4.30 gears, 5 spd and 285/75R16 tires puts the gearing very close to stock.
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- Thread starter
- #75
Good luck. Let me know if you need any more info. If you just have the third you'll need to notch the housing. You'll also need at least one of the axles from the locked donor. If you're able to get the whole axle you can swap it in and deal with the difference in brake lines.
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Thanks. I have the right axle on order from cruiser yard. Adding a notch to the housing doesn't concern me. Doing it while under the car might be a little harder than I imagine... I ordered all 10 of the studs you listed.
I wasn't planning on any of this until I found a gear tooth stuck to my diff drain plug. Looking forward to front and rear lockers
I wasn't planning on any of this until I found a gear tooth stuck to my diff drain plug. Looking forward to front and rear lockers
@sdnative thanks for the write up. I am about to acquire a locked rear from an LC for my 98 LX. Two questions:
1) Did you ever figure out the wiring issue that was causing the locking ECU to drain your battery?
2) Do you have any way to indicate the rear locker was actually engaged (I assume your truck doesn't have the rear locker indicator in the dash)?
Thanks a bunch.
1) Did you ever figure out the wiring issue that was causing the locking ECU to drain your battery?
2) Do you have any way to indicate the rear locker was actually engaged (I assume your truck doesn't have the rear locker indicator in the dash)?
Thanks a bunch.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Your 100 should have the rear locker indicator in the dash. You may have to ad a bulb and you’ll need to do a little wiring.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
So the indicator lamp holder is already there even for an LX? Also, as for the wiring, would I need to run an actual wire to the gauge cluster or is there a place I plug the plus wire that gets power when the locker is actuated.
Thanks for your help.
Have you managed to route the cables? I've just swapped my actuator for a new one, so I can snap pictures for you how the stock wiring is.
