Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Tub separated from frame!



Pull axles / springs over the next couple days and then frame is off for blast/paint!
That tub sure looks solid, damn wish I could find a good tub like that for my 68 :bang:
 
No pics but...got the underside of the tub fully coated with rust converter. Went the brush route vs spray...took longer but I feel like I was able to get much better coverage.

I’ll let it dry today and might have a chance tomorrow to appt penetrol to the underside.

Was also able to power wash and CLR scrub a ton of body parts yesterday. Just have the fenders left to do. Getting close to starting putting it all back together!
 
Got out of work a bit early today...network connection in our office went down and after an hour I gtfo!

Spent some time before dinner and was able to apply penetrol to the entire tub underside. Give it a couple days to dry (in the cooler temps) and then flip back over and reinstall onto the chassis (with new body mounts).

Tub after scrubbing.
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Tub after applying rust converter.
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Tub after applying penetrol.
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Got the tub flipped and back on the frame with all new body mounts (poly performance kit). Planning to start installing my @Coolerman harness during the evenings this week...then some of the brake lines / bits that attach to the firewall. I’ll make all new brake lines and use 10mm fittings vs the period correct 9mm. Also planning to install a geo booster / master cylinder plus a 40 series disc brake axle I have (instead of the jto disc converted ball and claw axle in there currently).

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I really need to clean the lint off my iPhone camera lens...pics are so cloudy...
 
Got the tub flipped and back on the frame with all new body mounts (poly performance kit). Planning to start installing my @Coolerman harness during the evenings this week...then some of the brake lines / bits that attach to the firewall. I’ll make all new brake lines and use 10mm fittings vs the period correct 9mm. Also planning to install a geo booster / master cylinder plus a 40 series disc brake axle I have (instead of the jto disc converted ball and claw axle in there currently).

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I really need to clean the lint off my iPhone camera lens...pics are so cloudy...
Nice! Coming along! I need to look into this geo booster mod. I have FJ60 brakes up front with a non-boosted chevy S-10 master. A booster would be awesome.
 
Nice! Coming along! I need to look into this geo booster mod. I have FJ60 brakes up front with a non-boosted chevy S-10 master. A booster would be awesome.

Yeah...we will see how the geo booster works. Folks have reported positives in the past.

How does yours drive with discs up front and no booster? I was originally planning to do that but with a Toyota dual master.

Here are some geo booster links if you're interested...I am not planning to cut the firewall rib.

brake booster, master on early 40

Geo Metro booster install

Brake Booster
 
I've been working on wiring and while waiting on some terminals to arrive I decided to refresh some of the switches and knobs.

This cool little gadget was in my 'trash' pile (funny cause I throw nothing away) until I saw @FJC Mtneer mention in his FJ45 thread that it is the horn relay. It was so nasty that I thought it was a solid metal rusty cover...cleaned up pretty good!

They definitely don't make relays like they used to!

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I've been working on wiring and while waiting on some terminals to arrive I decided to refresh some of the switches and knobs.

This cool little gadget was in my 'trash' pile (funny cause I throw nothing away) until I saw @FJC Mtneer mention in his FJ45 thread that it is the horn relay. It was so nasty that I thought it was a solid metal rusty cover...cleaned up pretty good!

They definitely don't make relays like they used to!

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Nice job! Looks like new. You have skills my friend.
 
Spent another cold and rainy day in the shop... Worked on cleaning up the dash switches / knobs and running boards.

Knobs...simple green, a 3M maroon scrubby, paint and more scrubbing produced some nice clean refreshed pieces. Still undecided if I want to clear them??? Used the dremel and a wire wheel plus lots of patience to clean up the switches and brass ferrules. Notice something missing...still searching for a choke cable, '67 correct cig lighter and interior light switch.

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On to the running boards...which were anything but straight to begin with. I had very low expectations based on what I was working with...

Driver's side, which is the better of the two.
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Passenger side...pretty much focked.
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Passenger side in process...not bad so far.
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Got into a grove and was able to get both back to 'straight enough'! Was as simple as some vise grips to hold the board flat and a big ass c-clamp working down each side. The corners were tricky but a piece of scrap round tube helped reform the profile.

Passenger side done.
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Driver's side done.
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Since that went way quicker then I anticipated, I had time to work on cutting some pyramid rubber matting. Got both sides cut and holes punched. The matting isn't that hard to work with and would likely be much more pliable on a warm summer day...

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I had ordered some pan head JIS screws from our friends in the PROC...but all that arrived was an empty padded envelop with a small hole that I imagine all the screws used for their escape. Instead of waiting on another package I assembled the passenger side with some JIS SEMs I had on hand...which are definitely too tall and look a bit awkward vs just a plain pan head. These will get swapped out once the others arrive.

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Drivers side needs the 'support' rib rewelded to the step before bolting the top piece and rubber...project for tomorrow!
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Just curious, what is PROC? Are you able to source true JIS pan head, I’d be interested in the source if so, they aren’t particularly easy to find with an actual JIS cross.
 
Just curious, what is PROC? Are you able to source true JIS pan head, I’d be interested in the source if so, they aren’t particularly easy to find with an actual JIS cross.

PROC - People’s Republic of China :)

They probably aren’t true JIS pan head and even if they are you probably wouldn’t be interested in the quantity / price...ebay small lot kinda deal.

Here is a pic - maybe more of a round head.
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Ok...I couldn’t help myself and took apart my elephant horns :confused:. The ‘horn’ parts cleaned up great in the blast cabinet with glass beads.

The gasket on one fell apart. Has anyone ever replaced one before?? I’m guessing cutting some thin paper gasket material would work?

Also...the aluminum tags lost their decal a long time ago. Has anyone reproduced them as a sticker? @SMG I don’t even think I’ve seen what the label looks like.

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I felt the need to actually reattach something to the tub as I’m been removing and disassembling for what feels like an eternity!

Running boards!
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Clutch master from Curt @ Cruiser Outfitters with newly replated oem hardware...zero clue if the bolt labels are correct for this location but it looks nice!
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...and new fuse panel plus reproduction wire harness grommets from Roger @ City Racer...again, fancy fresh plated oem hardware.
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Wife went to the beach to see her parents for the weekend so I get to work in the shop!

The '67 (and some earlier trucks) have a one piece plastic fuel line from the fuel filter to the tank and it runs within the frame rail. I pulled mine before getting the frame blasted/painted and after giving it a once over it seemed in good enough shape to reuse. The frame hole grommets were dry rotted/half there and long NLA so I improvised and made my own.

I took some larger vacuum line, sliced it down the center line and then glued the ends together. Turned out really nice. There are two of these, one pictured below (where the fuel filter will mount) and the other is the frame hole just forward of the tube cross-member.

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I ended using a similar technique but with smaller vacuum hose to remake the grommets for the firewall rib wiring pass-through (DS and PS).

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Also got a few coats of paint on the f135 block. Going to start assembly later this week after the paint drys...

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