Easy Water Faucet on Trail/In Camp (1 Viewer)

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Markuson

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Can’t fit my hand or arm inside a jerry can to tighten a spigot...but found a handy solution some of you rain-barrel folk may already know about. Otherwise...how would you tighten the interior seal? Anyway...have a look:

Doing this to my spare-facing jerry can spot.

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Handy solution for one-sided install:
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Amazon:
RAINPAL Brass Rain Barrel Quarter Turn Ball Valve Spigot with Bulkhead Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NX697C0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iGDeCbMYBF2MR

Added cap to keep trail dirt/mud out (far right in photo)

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Link to cap (you get two caps, tho not really indicated)...
Gilmour Brass Hose Caps 05HCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSXIMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WIDeCbKSB2JM7

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Used a coat hanger to guide it out...

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Continued below...
 
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Pull it through...

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Reverse tighten outer pinch nut (or whatever it’s called...) -Gasket is on inside thread housing...
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Basic plumbing stuff...tape...

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Tighten and turn...

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Definitely worth adding a cap so it isn’t fouled by trail dirt/crud...

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Visibly (mostly) hidden by the spare to avoid knuckleheads turning it on in town. Just swing tire away to use on trail without fuss.
Or in my case, pull the jerry can side swing-out open and access is easy, plus water isn’t dumped where you access the back.
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Only need the one tap & will just dump another into this one in the boonies.

That be it... :hillbilly:

PS. Use the small vent knob on the water can to slow the flowflow...rather than a partially opened valve...since water flow shape is far better with the valve all the way open.

[Edit: This particular spigot (see link in top post) is perfect for limited water supply as it’s internal flow hole is smaller than a typical hose. A full-flow hose would dump water too quickly to conserve.

30 second video below shows flow control with the smallest of the 3 caps these cans have.]

 
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Kariba heats 5 gallons very quickly, and the can seems to stay quite warm for hours afterward... Should be nice in camp this December. ;)

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I’m very happy with my Kariba, however I don’t use hot water circulating directly out of the heat exchanger for a shower. It’s too easy to burn yourself if circulation slows or stops all together. I always recirculate hot water coming from the heat exchanger back into the same dispensing container or a separate one, from there I pull my hot water for my shower with the unit turned off. This method isn’t new to those who have used this device and is actually highly recommended by Kariba to prevent burns. I only mention it here for those who might be considering this heather. Using this method it works great and you should be a happy camper.
 
I’m very happy with my Kariba, however I don’t use hot water circulating directly out of the heat exchanger for a shower. It’s too easy to burn yourself if circulation slows or stops all together. I always recirculate hot water coming from the heat exchanger back into the same dispensing container or a separate one, from there I pull my hot water for my shower with the unit turned off. This method isn’t new to those who have used this device and is actually highly recommended by Kariba to prevent burns. I only mention it here for those who might be considering this heather. Using this method it works great and you should be a happy camper.

I do the same (learned that from @indycole in Baja). Pre-heat 5 gallons...then use with heat off for showers. Kariba is hot enough to use water straight out of the heat exchanger (without preheat/recirculating)...but it wastes a ton of water if you run it constantly like that. Much smarter to preheat...then turn water on just for rinsing, etc. unless you have unlimited water.
 
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@Markuson = TRICKED OUT! I admire your desire to leave nothing as is. you are the tinkermaster
 
Might want to attach a keeper to the faucet cap. I could see that growing legs and wandering off...

Ya, I’m attaching a strong magnet to it so I don’t drop/lose it during use...but will also see about a connected keeper. Also threw a spare cap in the drawer...
 
Sounds El Cheapo but they make those in PVC which would be easier to attach a keeper chain to? Remember it's hose thread not pipe thread.

Good idea. Could even drill a hole in a pvc cap that would still seal & then add a little cable leash.

It doesn’t need to be a pressure seal anyway. Just a dust/mud cap. So that would work really well I think even if not totally pressure proof.

PS... If “el cheapo” gets it done, el cheapo is great! :) A major reason I tinker so much is I can’t afford to just hire someone to do these little ideas.
 
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Ya, I’m attaching a strong magnet to it so I don’t drop/lose it during use...but will also see about a connected keeper. Also threw a spare cap in the drawer...

With all the "strong magnets" you've attached to your rig recently, all compasses within a couple of miles are going to be pointing to you instead of pointing North!
:rofl:
 
With all the "strong magnets" you've attached to your rig recently, all compasses within a couple of miles are going to be pointing to you instead of pointing North!
:rofl:

It’s funny bc I actually wondered about that. I did some testing just out of curiosity...and a standard compass does see them...but only if about a foot or two away. :)

I find it interesting that the crazy internals of iphones (for example) don’t seem to care one little but if mounted by a super strong magnet. Seems like it should wreak havoc somehow, but doesn’t. Maybe I’m remembering tube based displays (CRTs) that get screwed up by magnets... I dunno. :meh:

One thing I do wonder is whether—over time—the shelf magnets might start attracting random iron ore that kicks up with decomposed granite dust...
Hope not. But meh... ;)
 
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@Markuson I know this is an old post but do you remember if there is any room left on the backside of the fitting to be able to thread in a barb fitting to hook up a hose? I'm wanting to use one of these fittings to mount on the front face of my Decked drawer system and then run a hose from it to my 12v pump that's connected to my water tank. Just can't determine if there is enough room once the spigot is threaded in if there's any threads left to put a barb on the back side..

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I'm not @Markuson but thru the miracle of modern PVC or brass piping it would not be difficult. Use a close nipple threaded into the interior bulkhead fitting then the compression nut which leaves a male end to attach valve too either with a union or getting a female end valve. There are other combinations that would also work.
 

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