DIY Land Cruiser Projector Retrofit (1 Viewer)

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My personal problem with that is i dislike the 06 07 look headlights so much i might end up doing the h1 mini instead.

Thanks for the heads up.

In that case, you will have the ultimate setup! :) Just one set of xenon bulbs that is properly installed will make a huge difference.
 
Did you go with 5500k HID to match the 5700k 2strokes? Thanks
@krom yes went with the 5500k HID. When they are opened up 100% at the same time as the 2 strokes the light is so bright that I can't tell if there is a match, the colors blend into one extremely bright color so you will be good to go.
 
That is what I have in my 100 and it is top notch.
@gungriffin will you post a pic of how that looks? I actually thought of this setup while doing my retro, and agree it is the ultimate I've just never seen it and would love to see how it turned out for you!

Also someone asked if you can adjust the projector after sealing up - answer is yes you can and will likely need to in order to fine tune the beam alignment/aim.
 
@gungriffin will you post a pic of how that looks? I actually thought of this setup while doing my retro, and agree it is the ultimate I've just never seen it and would love to see how it turned out for you!

Also someone asked if you can adjust the projector after sealing up - answer is yes you can and will likely need to in order to fine tune the beam alignment/aim.

Just finished mine, same setup as @gungriffin.

Clear depot lights & mini D2S.

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35W ballasts, 5500k XB35 bulbs, Iris Shrouds. Mine are the Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0, they just came out with 5.0 a few days later.

Sorry for the crummy garage pics, I know the glare sucks but it's all I've got right now.

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35W ballasts, 5500k XB35 bulbs, Iris Shrouds. Mine are the Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0, they just came out with 5.0 a few days later.

Sorry for the crummy garage pics, I know the glare sucks but it's all I've got right now.

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Thanks for the pictures, the depo fitment looks good!


That's the situation I'm in now. I received the 4.0 and a day later the 5.0 was released. Contemplating swapping them out but can't seem to find much info if it's worth the change other than blue tinted projectors and a different cutoff.

I got the d2s with Iris shrouds as well, but with 55w ballasts. Still debating whether to attempt to install them in my oem housings as i like the look of the glass housing better, but I'm afraid they won't fit.
 
Flattened off the back side with a HF angle grinder, and drilled out the hole to 1 3/8" with my biggest step bit. That got the hole to within a fraction of a millimeter of fitting, so from there I just worked by hand with a small file until it fit. I would guess that a 1.5" hole would be about right.

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I didn't see the request for photos, but here they are just a little late. My 100 has the black Depo 1 piece headlights with the D2S kit with 35 watt bulbs and (I believe) the Apollo 3.0 housing. I really like the blacked out look of the lights with the white vehicle and black trim. It works really well. I also didn't install this. It was on the vehicle when I bought it last year. Sorry for the dirty photos, but I haven't washed up from the last outing.

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you're right 1.5" bit is perfect, you need some wiggle room anyway to set it right. At least 12mm need to come off the 9006 base on the reflector for the mini D2S 5.0 on a depo reflector for 06-07. Stock reflector is the same. I tried to save as much base as possible trying to use as little JB weld as possible and still be solid. NO bulb spring on the 5.0 version. Thats nice. the cut off line is soo much better than the 4.

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4.0 or 5.0 or whatever, it is WAY better than stock. I don't even know what version number mine is, but the cutoff is razor sharp. I was installed at least a few years ago.
 
you're right 1.5" bit is perfect, you need some wiggle room anyway to set it right. At least 12mm need to come off the 9006 base on the reflector for the mini D2S 5.0 on a depo reflector for 06-07. Stock reflector is the same. I tried to save as much base as possible trying to use as little JB weld as possible and still be solid. NO bulb spring on the 5.0 version. Thats nice. the cut off line is soo much better than the 4.

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Do you have photos of the holes after cutting? I used a dremel to widen the holes and im trying to find out how much material i should shave off the back of the projector (from the bulb stand offs) to level it and make sure i dont weaken the mount.
 
I cut an 11mm doughnut off and used a flat file for another 1 or so mm.
But it doesn't matter if it's a perfect ring you cut off, just that's it's close. The shaft will be cocked up through the hole so you need the whole oversized at least an 1/16 and the odd sillicone washer thickest part at 6 o'clock. I ended up with a three thread difference, three threads more at the top than the bottom. So when I set the mount nut it's flush at the bottom and there's three extra threads at the top. From say,, 10 - 2 o'clock.
I used a 1 3/8" hole bit and half rounded for the rest on the inside. The shaft of d2s's is 35mm

If you set them straight in the boss and go through the motions, your up and down adjusting bolt will be at the very edge of just catching the keeper nut on the reflector. If there was a way to do it withouth jb weld I would have. You can try to angle your hole bit up a little also. I did on the second one. I'm going to take apart my lightwerkz set and see how they did the bowl in a few days.

12mm ring will get you enough shaft length out the back end of the projectors for the lock washer, the set nut, and the bulb retainer nut with two threads clearance between the bulb retainer and the set nut.

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I cut an 11mm doughnut off and used a flat file for another 1 or so mm.
But it doesn't matter if it's a perfect ring you cut off, just that's it's close. The shaft will be cocked up through the hole so you need the whole oversized at least an 1/16 and the odd sillicone washer thickest part at 6 o'clock. I ended up with a three thread difference, three threads more at the top than the bottom. So when I set the mount nut it's flush at the bottom and there's three extra threads at the top. From say,, 10 - 2 o'clock.
I used a 1 3/8" hole bit and half rounded for the rest on the inside. The shaft of d2s's is 35mm

If you set them straight in the boss and go through the motions, your up and down adjusting bolt will be at the very edge of just catching the keeper nut on the reflector. If there was a way to do it withouth jb weld I would have. You can try to angle your hole bit up a little also. I did on the second one. I'm going to take apart my lightwerkz set and see how they did the bowl in a few days.

12mm ring will get you enough shaft length out the back end of the projectors for the lock washer, the set nut, and the bulb retainer nut with two threads clearance between the bulb retainer and the set nut.

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Thanks for the post! i was having issues getting the nut flush, i guess i was over thinking it. I picked up a set for my 03 which uses H7 bulbs, so my base doesn't look like yours and it's not easy to get it flush, but obviously that's a non issue.

It's just i feared that i jumped into this too quick considering i had just picked up my Depo set from @ranma21 a couple of hours prior and didn't realize they were euro spec with H7 bulbs and a different base. But looking at this post, i believe i'm on the right path.

i just need to make sure they're aimed equally to the high beam reflector, that's the part i'm dreading. You might wonder why bother since the projector is bi xenon, it's because i can't flash my highs if the lights are off and will still need to use the reflectors for that.
 
Thanks for the post! i was having issues getting the nut flush, i guess i was over thinking it. I picked up a set for my 03 which uses H7 bulbs, so my base doesn't look like yours and it's not easy to get it flush, but obviously that's a non issue.

It's just i feared that i jumped into this too quick considering i had just picked up my Depo set from @ranma21 a couple of hours prior and didn't realize they were euro spec with H7 bulbs and a different base. But looking at this post, i believe i'm on the right path.

i just need to make sure they're aimed equally to the high beam reflector, that's the part i'm dreading. You might wonder why bother since the projector is bi xenon, it's because i can't flash my highs if the lights are off and will still need to use the reflectors for that.



^^You need to watch this video!!! I am just learning about this now and wish I had seen it before my retrofit. Basically, the Morimoto D2S 4.0 has a downward bias when mounted dead on straight. When you adjust the cutoff up where it needs to be, your DRL and high beams will be pointed up too high. If you want the cutoff to line up with your DRL/high beams, you'll need to mount the projectors at a slight upward angle. You can do that either by sanding the back of the reflector at an angle or wedging it later. How much of an angle you'll need, I can't be sure but it seems like it is only a few degrees.

I finished my retrofit a couple of weeks ago, but I might pull it back apart to see if I can tilt mine up a few degrees. I thought I had everything lined up perfect, so I used JB Weld for a permanent install. If I can't change the angle of the projector housing, I might try modding my projector to raise the cutoff. After seeing some info on HID Planet, I am hypothesizing that either the shield drop mod and/or adding washers to the lens mount will have the effect of raising the cutoff. If none of those things work, I may just unplug the bulb for my DRL/high beam.

EDIT: For those of you with the 5.0, I really don't know if it has the same downward bias...
 
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^^You need to watch this video!!! I am just learning about this now and wish I had seen it before my retrofit. Basically, the Morimoto D2S 4.0 has a downward bias when mounted dead on straight. When you adjust the cutoff up where it needs to be, your DRL and high beams will be pointed up too high. If you want the cutoff to line up with your DRL/high beams, you'll need to mount the projectors at a slight upward angle. You can do that either by sanding the back of the reflector at an angle or wedging it later. How much of an angle you'll need, I can't be sure but it seems like it is only a few degrees.

I finished my retrofit a couple of weeks ago, but I might pull it back apart to see if I can tilt mine up a few degrees. I thought I had everything lined up perfect, so I used JB Weld for a permanent install. If I can't change the angle of the projector housing, I might try modding my projector to raise the cutoff. After seeing some info on HID Planet, I am hypothesizing that either the shield drop mod and/or adding washers to the lens mount will have the effect of raising the cutoff. If none of those things work, I may just unplug the bulb for my DRL/high beam.

EDIT: For those of you with the 5.0, I really don't know if it has the same downward bias...

Oops! Just as i was finishing my passenger side i see your post.

I just finished it and from what it looks like, I'm golden. Now to duplicate excellence again. I didn't use any jb weld except for the shroud.

I had to trim some plastic from the inside of the reflector bowl to get the projector seated right. The Halogen high beams sit right at the low beam uptick and to it's left, just like oem.

I'm posting some pictures of how everything looks. The drivers side isn't aimed or anything, i just had to get it installed to be able to drive to work in the morning. Will start on it tomorrow night.

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I'll take better ones tomorrow. I'm really starting to like the one piece look!

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I also noticed my Iris shroud is flipped 180 degrees vs yours, yet I'm clipped onto the correct tabs on the projector. Weird.

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I think the shrouds are meant for more upward adjustment. LIghtwerks flips them down and cuts the tabs off and they are taped on with HVAC tape or something like that. There are different versions of those shrouds also.

I'm seeing that if you don't bowl cut the reflector you need new rubber back housing seals since it sits deeper in the actual headlight. Amazon has 83mm covers.
 

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