Time to start thinking about correct way to proceed with engine removal and rebuild. (1 Viewer)

[Eric_FJ40]

12/78 FJ40, Cal Spec. Motor *may have* been apart with previous owner.

The Cruiser has been down long enough. The symptoms I know of are low compression in 1 and 6 and a lot of blow by.

Time to pull the motor and get ready to rebuild it. I have searched, and read, and have a plan, but before I go purchasing parts how do I start the process?

I plan to pull and disassemble the motor myself and have machine work done locally or ship out certain parts for work as necessary.

Do I need to get the block to the machine shop first to see what's going on with it? Seems like I should.

Options I am considering are the .060 over sized pistons from Jim C, head work by Jim C (all pending his supply and availability of course), send cam out for re-grind, install Man-a Fre headers and a fluid heat riser.

Of course, if the motor is in better shape than I expect, I may not need some of this...

How to I *start* an engine rebuild?

Eric

 

[Spike Strip]

By reading this:

How not to build the 2F

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

How to I *start* an engine rebuild?

Take out a second mortgage, or pull some funds from a retirement account.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Take LOTS of pictures and prepare to label anything that's not obvious. Note what it is and where it goes, particularly vacuum lines and electrical.

 

[69LC]

Sell it to someone more obsessed with oem and swap in an LS 5.3.

 

[Splangy]

Download the factory service manual.

 

[Eric_FJ40]

I appreciate the responses. I've checked many a thread, including the "what not to do". I also do have a full set of FSMs.

I guess I'm just trying to figure out where to start. I know the motor needs attention, but I'm not sure how much. Of course, I need to pull it to asses its condition. I'm thinking before I go spending a bunch of $$ on oversized pistons etc, I need to get it to the machine shop so they can tell me if it,s in good condition and what the cylinder bores measure at currently in case it's been bored previously.

I know from some notes in the margin of my FSMs that it's likely the PO at least had the head off at some point.

 

[reddingcruiser]

FWIW, I prefer to pull all the front sheet metal, then pull the motor. For the extra 30 - 45 minutes it takes to pull the fenders it's not worth working over them. At that point you can pull the intake and exhaust, and then pull the head. Then you can see how bad the cylinders are before you commit to pulling the engine. You can measure the bores while in the motor and see what you have, and you can ship the head out to the machine shop.
If you need to scrounge up pistons the motor can sit in the frame until you have all the pieces.

 

[Eric_FJ40]

FWIW, I prefer to pull all the front sheet metal, then pull the motor. For the extra 30 - 45 minutes it takes to pull the fenders it's not worth working over them. At that point you can pull the intake and exhaust, and then pull the head. Then you can see how bad the cylinders are before you commit to pulling the engine. You can measure the bores while in the motor and see what you have, and you can ship the head out to the machine shop.
If you need to scrounge up pistons the motor can sit in the frame until you have all the pieces.

I like this idea for sure. I've had the fenders and bib off before, so no problem there. Will pull the head first as you stated and begin to evaluate from there. Thanks!

 

[Tancruiser]

These are pretty simple engines lable as you go and keep matched parts together in separate boxes like connecting rod 1 and all associated parts etc . This going to be fun.