Builds Red Line Landcruisers " The Tale of Two 80's" Build (3 Viewers)

[Boing]

Measured the bumper on the ground then cut the frame rails to maximize the frame rear of the bolt hole…

Ran a tap through all the welded nuts on the frame, a lot of motor oil was used that day…

Next project was front body mount armor, front bumper sits high enough that they are exposed even though they sit up high…

Cleaned up the work area, 3/16" plate to the factory mount makes about .292” (overall thickness)…

On the diagonal part of the plate is .132” down from the edge (and bottom), notch will fill with weld and grab vertical part of mount…

On final I sanded the weld down with 80 grit flap disk, then used a course file to break high spots and finished with a fine file so that there are no sharp edges and a slight radius…

Then moved to the rear suspension mounts (saw jcardona1’s build) and decided to make some gussets out of 1/8”, cleaned up the cross member and rubbed it down with Acetone.

I accidentally punched the first center hole with a 5/16 punch, so I punched all the center holes with 5/16, all the rest are ¼”, welded both sides 17v 190ipm…

Then fit 3/16 plate into the back of the frame leaving a gap at the bottom for moisture to escape, recessed 3/16” for weldment…

Pulled the front shocks off the old frame just to get them out of the way, still look new and low miles

Pulled the steering box from the old frame to mark the old pitman arm and box again, picked up a new 105 sector shaft and pitman arm. Even though this truck will have hydraulic assist I want it to have every chance to survive the abuse it will receive. Even though it’s still new I am going to have it rebuilt again with the new sector shaft bearings and seals…

Not an exact science but a place to return too for the 105 pitman arm. (1/32 shy of 3/8; 4.34375”)

Old pitman arm left, new pitman arm right (45411-60360), I used a tapered reamer on a drill to open the old pitman arm and set depth along with frame clearance on the truck (had to be done this way). Obviously using a hand drill and lots of oil, it still has some chatter but the rod end fits perfectly. New and old pitman arm are at the machinist, new arm will be opened on a mill so the chatter should be kept to a minimum, 105 pitman arm has a scratch from the factory for what I think is to indicate straight ahead…

 

[dirtyboots]

Yep just did the 105 mod and the 105pitman arm and 105 sector shaft have alignment marks.

Or, they are machining marks that are irrelevant and a time suck/boobytrap.

 

[bryson]

My stock 80 arm and shaft have the marks as well... I don't know if they indicate straight ahead, but they do indicate how the shaft and arm are to match up.

 

[RFB]

Sweet Im getting a NEW OEM steering box with the upgraded sector ad arm a tad expensive but I dont need to worry about the steering box failing.

 

[Boing]

Steering box is back after being freshened up, and having the 105 sector shaft installed. I didn’t show pictures but the new steering box bolts are the F911 (1/2-20). I needed longer bolts after plating the frame, the steering box had to be opened up slightly to accommodate…

I am not going into detail on this just yet (it’s just a mock up) I have two parts being machined to see if this idea is plausible. (You are looking at a 2018 4runner rotor and caliper mounted behind the hub, it needs a little clearance in a couple of key places as of yet...)

Lastly I am picking up the recently triple blasted frame tomorrow, (I should have a picture to add to this post shortly), then it’s off to paint…

 

[RFB]

where did you get the F911 bolts from?

 

[Boing]

https://www.specialty-fasteners.com/

However alot of places carry them, we use them alot in offroad racing, it is legit hardware...

 

[Boing]

Frame after being painted, I am debating on putting some clear on it…

Gave the machinist the wrong reamer, and he made it the same major diameter as my hand reamed knuckle so ordered another new pitman arm, second one is money.

Ordered up a new reamer as the old one was “chowdered”, taper in 2nd pitman arm looks perfect. The fitment of the machined pitman arm is noticeably tighter than the one I hand reamed...

Pulled out new selectable hub to install chromoly gears (inner and outer)…

Round 3 of fitment, this hub has been machined twice but I now have good tolerance.

Knuckle and hub assembly drops into place on a 17 wheel, with good wheel to caliper clearance, rotor is inside the inner wheel lip with 17X8.5 (3.5 BS). I have sent another hub chromoly plate and tube to the machinist with final work list to be completed. I should have everything I need for final assembly in a little less than a month.

Cleaned the very light corrosion with emery cloth, then polished with a scotch bright (both knuckle balls)…

 

[RFB]

Frame after being painted, I am debating on putting some clear on it
Clear coat that frame in case it ends up on north east some day

Gave the machinist the wrong reamer, and he made it the same major diameter as my hand reamed knuckle so ordered another new pitman arm, second one is money.

Ordered up a new reamer as the old one was “chowdered”, taper in 2nd pitman arm looks perfect. The fitment of the machined pitman arm is noticeably tighter than the one I hand reamed...

Pulled out new selectable hub to install chromoly gears (inner and outer)…

Round 3 of fitment, this hub has been machined twice but I now have good tolerance.

Knuckle and hub assembly drops into place on a 17 wheel, with good wheel to caliper clearnce, rotor is inside the inner wheel lip with 17X8.5 (3.5 BS). I have sent another hub chromoly plate and tube to the machinist with final work list to be completed. I should have everything I need for finale assembly in a little less than a month.

Cleaned the very light corrosion with emery cloth, then polished with a scotch bright (both knuckle balls)…

 

[Boing]

Ruff stuff nose (3/8” to 1/8”) stitch welded 17/190 on the oil can.

18/200 stitch weld to adjacent oil can weld, broke the edge in the bench grinder for later shaping…

Moto Farkle 8” bottom armor (1/4”), shaped with brake, vice and hammer… I added one more bend further down to draw it up to the housing. Ground the ends (45*) in the bench grinder for better fitment. Tacked on drain side then hammered into position, small light tacks along the way then started stitch welding in 1”ish segments (alternating sides)…

Broke nose armor edge with a course file then, did some light shaping to remove square edge.

Cut off lower brake line tab and blended welds to housing (flush), broke the edge of the bottom armor with a course file then switched to a 50 grit die grinder for removing square edge, blended edge into radius…

Finished welding the front of the factory radius arm brackets, also tagged the upper part of the panhard bracket (2 pass).

Finished welding back of factory radius arm brackets (2 pass), also tagged the sway bar mounts on both sides…

Popped the third out removed the studs, screwed a few back in for protection in transit, housing is at the machinist to have the third member face drilled and tapped to 3/8-16.

I have ordered a set of studs, however we will see if I need a different shank length...

 

[interactivebagel]

Dude, you're hardcore! Love it!

 

[Boing]

Rotor hardware is ARP (665-1005) trimmed to UHL of 1.4375”, nuts are Class 10.9 flange heads for mockup and class 10.9 serrated flange head on final.

Bolts are below wheel mating surface by a few thou…

Originally had these spacers made for mockup on the hub, now I had a set made out of 4130 since they will be permanent (14.7mm OD, 12mm ID)…

Assembled: spacer grabs original rotor register (slip fit), plate is .190” thick normalized 4130…

Removed rotor backing plate, scrubbed mil scale from face, then smoothed with a Scotch Brite. Outside diameter was hit with 120 grit sand paper, then smoothed with a Scotch Brite, and finished with Acetone.

Shot the plate with 4 coats (10 minutes apart) of Steel-it, hung in the line of the heater for 24 hours will now sit for another 4 days…

Hubs are being trimmed for the last time, here’s a picture of the 4Runner wheel flange the brakes would normally hang from. I bought them recently to compare to my dimensions on the machined 80 hub (wound up just shy of 9/32" thicker than the 4runner flange)...

91 (top) 97 (bottom), empty they both weighed in at 24.4 lbs…

91 has slightly thicker bearing caps, albeit not as tightly cast as the 97… (going to run the early housing)

Comparison shot, factory hp 8” 4.10 (left), Sierra 4.88 (right), pinion head drops off in size fast on this tiny chunk…
(I’ll be using a 4.10 ratio for strength’ish)

Comparison shot, either can go in the 9” housing and both are 4.10 ratio, 27 spline Nitro (left), and 32 spline Toyota 200 Series (or Tundra) gears (right).

 

[Road Apple]

Thank you for writing such a detailed thread. I’m looking installing the Stage 4 Slinky kit with 37’s, so you're making me realize I need my own master mechanic...lol...seriously, you're making me realize just how much needs to be done to do it right. Far more detailed work than I imagined. Great write up!

 

[Boing]

I think there is a bunch of stuff you could cut out of my build and still be successful, but thanks!


Chopped these socket heads into brake caliper bolts by hand, then ground and sanded (started out 60mm)…

Decided to make a stone guard to replace the tin, 4130 (.125”) concentric to spindle center line.

How it sits on the spindle, and with Toyota’s silly hub dust seal…

OD of plate is .125" under the rotor hat ID…

Scooped up a late style rear third with low milage, bearing bores look perfect, and it was already clean!

Front gears from Toyota came with two large chips, appears they were shipped without enough padding and wound up riding on each other. There were a number of other dents in the teeth from shipping but below is the biggest of the blemishes… New front gears should be here in a couple of weeks…

 

[Douglas S]

Will the parts for the brake upgrade be made available by Redline? If not, will the specs be publicized?

 

[Boing]

We are still working through the details on this one, once my set is complete we will put a set on Justin's 80 and thoroughly abuse the brakes on 37s. After that we will decide if it is to become a part we sell, I want to test it first...

If we decide not to sell it, I'll put out the numbers along with CAD drawings...

If all goes well I think its possible to be ready to sell before summer...

 

[Boing]

Been waiting on parts to arrive (shipping) and waiting on knuckle parts from the machinist, like usual its all going to get here at almost the same time...

Cut the axle end off of the panhard and welded on a Currie Johnnie joint cup, still factory rubber bushing on the chassis side…

I have wanted to try this for a while and finally pulled the trigger. All the hub bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings and trunnion bearings have been cryoed, and all but the trunnion bearings were REM polished. I haven’t run them yet, obviously no long term thoughts, but I will say spinning the bearings they are a lot smoother than even brand new…

Second set of Toyota gears (41201-69805), Cryoed and REM polished… While I am waiting for knuckle parts from the machinist I’ll build the front diff (more pictures to follow…)

 

[74fj40]

Can you go into detail at all with the REM polishing? Maybe some close ups of the bearings and gears? Is it just the rollers and races that get polished?

Very cool!

 

[Boing]

You can research REM polishing online (Cryogenic Superfinish | Cryogenic Processing | Cryo Process), there are lots of articles on the process and its effects. What is most standout in my mind is not that desert racing (or Ultra4) is using it with success, but that it was first being used on helicopter gear boxes etc...

Skinny facts you dont perform it on any surface that you need to maintain dimensional interference (bearing registers, back or inside of ring gear etc...). I'll take more pictures as I setup up the diff, but its essentially a super polished surface. I was also told that you setup the diff as though is has used bearings instead of new (think pinion preload), break-in time is seriously reduced which tells me the bearings must act like they have taken a "set"...

Having said that I will still break the gears in the traditional way with 85-140 (dino oil) at 6-10, 15 minute intervals, then eventually (after 3K-10K miles) switch to 190w synthetic...

Can you go into detail at all with the REM polishing? Maybe some close ups of the bearings and gears? Is it just the rollers and races that get polished?

Very cool!

 

[Boing]

Instead of adding shims under the pinion head I decided to put the shims under the inner pinion race (most diffs are built this way, save for the 8” breed of Toyota gears). This means the shims for pinion depth push the pinion bearings apart ( by approximately .072”), doing this causes other issues I’ll go over shortly… These new Toyota gears (100 series) are 2 cut gears (face hobbed) which cause the pattern to show up very differently than traditional 5 cut gears (face milled).

If you setup diffs I found a great link that explains the movement of 2 cut gears that I have stashed in my notes…

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1241317.jpg

2 cut gear’s pattern shows up slanted as opposed to the nice ellipses that 5 cut gears display. As mentioned above this is .072” of shim under the inner pinion race and .006 backlash.

Drive…

Coast...

Since I didn’t put the shims under the pinion head it created a problem with the solid pinion spacer, the solid spacer was hitting a register on the pinion shaft instead of seating against the inner pinion bearing. I wound up adding shims to both the bottom and the top of the spacer in order to finally reach the proper preload. The bad part is it took .122” (which is slightly less than 1/8”) of shim to get it to preload properly (6 in-lbs @ 145 ft-lbs of pinion nut torque)…

You can see the outer pinion bearing register the spacer was hitting in the center of the picture…

Aside from .122” being a lot of shims to wear out, I decided that I wanted a solid spacer that didn’t need any shim at all. At first I was going to have one made then found that the old 4 cylinder solid pinion spacer would be perfect so I ordered 2 and went to “turning”. Machined .289 off the bottom of the spacer which should leave about a 10 thou gap between the pinion shaft register and the spacer chamfer, the rest of the length was taken off the top of the spacer. Then took 3 quick sanding sessions (400 grit) on a granite block to get the 6 in-lbs of preload I was looking for…

Pinion bearing spacers (left to right) factory crush sleeve, V6 spacer along with .122”of shims, 4 cylinder spacer (machined; no shims needed), and factory 4 cylinder spacer.

Last mod will be to the factory oil baffle, I am going to open the ID so that it has almost the same gap as the stock crush sleeve.

Getting off of diffs for a minute made a new tie-rod (4130) with EMF GM 1 ton rod ends, they dwarf the factory size FJ80 rod ends… (And yes the old tie-rod is already sold…)