First timer engine pull (1 Viewer)

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May 23, 2017
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Seattle, WA
Im planning to pull my engine, tranny, and transfer case all as one unit this coming weekend. Ive never tried anything like this, and am excited for the challenge so I have a few questions, sorry if some seem remedial.

I have a nice 2 ton hoist and 2 ton engine stand and I think I understand the pull process in general.

My questions are:

Other than draining the coolant from the radiator and block, what other fluids should I consider draining? Engine oil, tranny and transfer case fluid? I used some expensive fluid in the tranny so Id prefer not to drain it if I don’t have to until I have it free from the chassis and can capture it cleanly.

Ive bought some 12mm bolts to mount the motor on the stand once I separate the tranny/transfer case, Can I use a normal jack to support the tranny when I break it free from the motor?

Any other tips/tricks you guys could share, id really appreciate it!
 
Im planning to pull my engine, tranny, and transfer case all as one unit this coming weekend. Ive never tried anything like this, and am excited for the challenge so I have a few questions, sorry if some seem remedial.

I have a nice 2 ton hoist and 2 ton engine stand and I think I understand the pull process in general.

My questions are:

Other than draining the coolant from the radiator and block, what other fluids should I consider draining? Engine oil, tranny and transfer case fluid? I used some expensive fluid in the tranny so Id prefer not to drain it if I don’t have to until I have it free from the chassis and can capture it cleanly.

Ive bought some 12mm bolts to mount the motor on the stand once I separate the tranny/transfer case, Can I use a normal jack to support the tranny when I break it free from the motor?

Any other tips/tricks you guys could share, id really appreciate it!
THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT! BEFORE you drain ANYTHING be sure to drain the fluid from at least two cans of cheap beer
 
You will want to remove the radiator and radiator support. Also, I would pull the bib and front fenders off. It's only a few bolts, and it pays dividends when checking clearance and ensuring all wires, hoses, etc are detached. I wouldn't worry about draining any of the oil. I also removed my front bumper so I could get the hoist in far enough. Otherwise, pulling these engines are pretty straight forward.
 
From experience I prefer to hoist up the motor & transmission and then roll the truck out from under it. Overall it's a big project with lots of steps, but none are overly complex.

Stick shifts out make it easier. I'd also pull them out together.
 
Some good advice so far, especially removing the radiator and front bib, hoisting the engine-transmission-transfer enough to clear the motor mounts and then pushing the rig back from under the engine. No way would I want to try to roll the hoist with the engine in the air. Of course the two I pulled were when I was working on a gravel driveway! Another thing that I found helpful and almost necessary was to remove the transmission cover and have my assistant inside the rig use their foot or a 2 x 4 as a lever to push down on the transfer as the engine is raised from the outside. Sort of hard to describe but you'll get the hang of it. it's also been about 25 years since I did the last one and the ole memory ain't what it used to be! Good luck, be careful, and don't take any chances with hands and fingers and feet!
 
Take a ton of pictures from every angle; label as much as you can through the process; take more photos.
That’s basically what I did for my entire frameoff. Something like 400 pictures, and hundreds of labeled baggies of various sizes. Every nut/bolt is labeled by location length and thread pitch. That’s the only way I felt I would be able to get it back together again with any success.
 
Depending on lift / tire size, letting all the air out helps to not have to raise up the hoist as high. Like others have said, be careful, it’s not a race!
 
You likely need a load leveler to make micro front-back load adjustments. No problem rolling the engine on the hoist, but it will swing. I dealt with it alone, and I am only a buck twenty-five last time I checked, go slow, and aim your casters without weight if they swivel. Your rolling surface needs to be level and flat. You almost absolutely need to remove the bellhousing mount on the steering box side if you also have the drum on the transfer, do it as you pull from the wheel well. Get the battery tray and its bracket out of the engine bay. If the transmission and transfer are connected it will all be crooked on the way out. I'd really consider getting that heater valve on the firewall out of the way. Use the 1 ton setting on the crane, not the .1/2 ton, hopefully your crane will reach. The bumper, removed, is going to be out of the way to get your necessary reach. I used the hoist with a chain around the front of the transfer to remove the transmission from the bellhousing. It is kinda hard, but doable, to get the top of the 4-speed out with the transmission hump in place, so that is one more strike against pulling the engine with the drivetrain, and because the hump makes it harder to get the stick off of the transfer, you might just drop your gears with the crane supporting them in the cab after you get the hump off.
 
Thanks everyone, this is great! I do have some help so that's great! I plan to drop the bib and remove the fenders, and all the ancillary systems, I've got all weekend so I'm in no hurry. I bought a couple of boxes of zip lock bags, and some 12x1.75x90mm bolts for the stand so i'm good to go i think
 

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