lx450/80 series hood wobble? (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

had this thing on the highway once doing a test drive before purchase. that upper center hood wobble at speed is basically just what you get with these vehicles is that right? sure is creepy. is there a fix for it? something odd about my vehicle? normal and means nothing so quit yer bitchin?

 

[1911garand]

My 1997 does The same thing. I tried adjusting the hood stops and bumpers, didn't work. Interested in what others do.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

My 1997 does The same thing. I tried adjusting the hood stops and bumpers, didn't work. Interested in what others do.

sure is creepy!

 

[martinakl]

I moved the hood bumpers up and it went away. Just loosen the nut, screw them out a ways, and tighten the nut down again.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

If its just the center of the hood then its the skin that has come loose from the inner hood frame work. Urethane the frame work to the hood skin. Let dry over night then all will be solid.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

If its just the center of the hood then its the skin that has come loose from the inner hood frame work. Urethane the frame work to the hood skin. Let dry over night then all will be solid.

thanks man. so there is some kind of cloth protector on there that i guess i need to remove?
then, are we talking some kind of urethane glue? i need to glue the center strut back to the skin somehow with the hood in a vertical position?
THANK YOU

 

[landcruiser3DP]

I moved the hood bumpers up and it went away. Just loosen the nut, screw them out a ways, and tighten the nut down again.

thanks martinakl. are there two of these? four? located at the sides of the hood where it meets the front quarter panels?

 

[Tedward]

2 adjustable bump stops. Rubber bumper on stud with a locking nut.

The hood insulation needs to be pulled off. The plastic keepers will likely break. Part stores have a rack of them. I think the Chevy ones work and have a larger head.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

2 adjustable bump stops. Rubber bumper on stud with a locking nut.

The hood insulation needs to be pulled off. The plastic keepers will likely break. Part stores have a rack of them. I think the Chevy ones work and have a larger head.

thanks man. it’s all new for me. apologies for sounding like a dope.

the hood insulation needs to be pulled off and i break the clips doing this?

then a tube of polyurethane glue in a caulk gun and squeeze it up over the center structural mount?

then carefully close the hood?

add some weight to it to hold the skin down?

let dry 24 hours?

THANKS

 

[COYS]

Zero wobble on my 97 at any speed.

 

[Tedward]

Yup.
Except I haven't done adhesive part yet.
I think we need be careful to not distort the hood. Not sure about adding weight while it cures. Others have done all this before, as with almost every thing on these trucks, and have done different things.
For me, cleaning the mating surface with some kind of thinner, caulk gun in some adhesive and shutting the hood is my plan. Adhesive like you mentioned cuse it's not runny (real word?) and wont ooze out nor will it push the hood up.
I've grown use to the hood float but it sure used to and still makes others worried. Like the hood is gonna flip up!

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yup.
Except I haven't done adhesive part yet.
I think we need be careful to not distort the hood. Not sure about adding weight while it cures. Others have done all this before, as with almost every thing on these trucks, and have done different things.
For me, cleaning the mating surface with some kind of thinner, caulk gun in some adhesive and shutting the hood is my plan. Adhesive like you mentioned cuse it's not runny (real word?) and wont ooze out nor will it push the hood up.
I've grown use to the hood float but it sure used to and still makes others worried. Like the hood is gonna flip up!

thanks. glad to know it is an issue and there may be a fix.
i guess i’ll gather supplies and see if i can get a solid strategy (mineral spirits and a rag to clean up?) before i tackle it.

initial parts list:
clips for replacing heat shield
rags
acetone
polyurethane glue (anything special?)
caulk gun
razor blade to cut glue spout
sandbag or other weight to hold down hood

 

[Josey1972]

My truck had that issue and I found I was missing a support for the member that holds the hood latch. I installed a fan t use when off-roading and was forced to put a piece of aluminum in there to help carry the fan. virtually eliminated the issue.

 

[Tedward]

I had to elongate the holes just a tad on the hood latch mech to raise it a touch. It opens the way it should now, springs up an inch when the release is pulled.

Adjusted the bump stops to make hood sit tightly. Even got new rubber ends on the adjustable posts.

Then there is the middle of the hood floaty thing. Comes from the hood separating from the cross braces support pieces. Needs glue to fix that.

 

[F80FJ]

I had to elongate the holes just a tad on the hood latch mech to raise it a touch. It opens the way it should now, springs up an inch when the release is pulled.

Adjusted the bump stops to make hood sit tightly. Even got new rubber ends on the adjustable posts.

Then there is the middle of the hood floaty thing. Comes from the hood separating from the cross braces support pieces. Needs glue to fix that.

Elongate what holes? I have to pull my hood release button quite a few times for the damn thing to open up. I wish it would spring up.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

thanks man. so there is some kind of cloth protector on there that i guess i need to remove?
then, are we talking some kind of urethane glue? i need to glue the center strut back to the skin somehow with the hood in a vertical position?
THANK YOU

Your hood insulation will need to be carefully removed. I use Black NP1 Urethane from Sonneborn. It's not a glue. It's just like liquid rubber. Once it dries it provides a tight, flexible but secure joint. It's also 100% waterproof as soon as you apply. Black also works great for sealing window gaskets that are leaking. Just apply all around where the frame touches the hood. Let dry overnight (preferably about 24 hrs) before driving. BTW, no need to use a sand bag to weight the hood down. It may distort how the hood skin rests on the frame/skeleton. Gasoline, mineral spirits or WD40 works fine for cleanup. I would not use acetone, it may damage painted surfaces.

On a different note; I also use the NP1 in Stone or Concrete grey color for caulking all the window to brick/siding joints at my house. Awesome stuff, looks exactly the same 10 years later and it never shrinks or cracks. They also sell SL1 which is Self Leveling Sealant for applying horizontally to concrete joints/cracks. Do not buy Self Leveling for the hood or vertical surfaces.

 

[Tedward]

NP1 Urathane is the stuff then!

The mechanism where the hood release terminates. Has the catch lock giddy up covered by plastic housing. Three little bolts, think 10 mm. Hold it all on.
Remove that, the cable end.
I then round filed just a bit to elongate the holes. Took material off the bottome of the holes to move that whole thing up. 1/8 inch I guess maybe 3/16 in my case

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Your hood insulation will need to be carefully removed. I use Black NP1 Urethane from Sonneborn. It's not a glue. It's just like liquid rubber. Once it dries it provides a tight, flexible but secure joint. It's also 100% waterproof as soon as you apply. Black also works great for sealing window gaskets that are leaking. Just apply all around where the frame touches the hood. Let dry overnight (preferably about 24 hrs) before driving. BTW, no need to use a sand bag to weight the hood down. It may distort how the hood skin rests on the frame/skeleton. Gasoline, mineral spirits or WD40 works fine for cleanup. I would not use acetone, it may damage painted surfaces.

On a different note; I also use the NP1 in Stone or Concrete grey color for caulking all the window to brick/siding joints at my house. Awesome stuff, looks exactly the same 10 years later and it never shrinks or cracks. They also sell SL1 which is Self Leveling Sealant for applying horizontally to concrete joints/cracks. Do not buy Self Leveling for the hood or vertical surfaces.

thanks man.
so sounds like sonneborn NP1 black for the “hood floaty thing”. then i can keep it in the truck and use it if the windows need caulking.
i’ll use mineral spirits for cleanup (thanks).
can i please ask if there’s a good way to clean up that heat shield while it is off the truck? it’s got a big old stain of some kind on it. guess i will clean up the hood while i am at it with a rag and some soap and water.
also, can i ask what i use for cleanup for the NP-1?
THANK YOU
jon