Real time STARTER help (1 Viewer)

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That's interesting theory. Can you please tell me where is this relay? And if there is a way to test it somehow. Should I just replace it, by chance do you know how much that would be? Thanks for the help!

The relay I'm talking about is the is the main BIG one that's a part of the starter solenoid. More info here - Starter Solenoid Failure Mode

@linuxgod brings up a good point in that it can be the little one in the fuse box that drives the big one. Any relay can potentially fail.

As your remote start finally failed, it'd be an odd coincidence that there's 2x different little relays that drive the big one, and for both of them to have failed?
 
If you want to walk through the wiring diagram and see if you can figure out how the remote start differs from the regular start, knock yourself out with the attached.

Personally if it starts with the fob but not the button, I'd get out of the vehicle and see if the remote starter works. If so that definitely points to a problem with something besides the starter...

thanks for all the diagrams, trying to figure this out is over the top for me. I am convinced it's not the starter. Some relay or wiring related, if I had to bet my money.

btw, looked at your website, very cool pics and videos. Look like great trips!
 
The relay I'm talking about is the is the main BIG one that's a part of the starter solenoid. More info here - Starter Solenoid Failure Mode

@linuxgod brings up a good point in that it can be the little one in the fuse box that drives the big one. Any relay can potentially fail.

As your remote start finally failed, it'd be an odd coincidence that there's 2x different little relays that drive the big one, and for both of them to have failed?


I had starter replaced couple of years ago. Assuming that included the solenoids (perhaps a bad assumption as it was done at a dealer)

Just to clarify, remote start works every time. It would be great to understand how remote start is different from the push button start. Answer to this question will likely point to component that's intermittently failing.
 
The solenoid is integrated in the starter, so unless they attempted to rebuild the one you have (unlikely) it should be new.

I agree if you can figure out where the remote start triggers the starter you should be able to figure out what component it is bypassing.

I'd try to test and/or swap the relay first, then test the start button next. Relays are easy to get to - see below - and should be fairly cheap. If your fobs are OK my hunch is it's a failing start button though, since the remote start function bypasses the start button to trigger the starter (which is why you have to restart the truck when you open the door). Bonus: if it is the button you can get yourself a TRD start button to replace it ;)

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Spent close to an hour trying different things, don't believe it's related to fob. The light turns green on the start button as it should, but pressing the button does't do anything other than lighting all the dashboard lights as normally expected

Check the brake switch.

Truck does not need brakes depressed for remote start. Trying to start the truck normally but without the brake pressed will just light up the instrument panel. Sounds like your symptoms.

Are your brake lights coming on when the pedal is pressed?
 
Check the brake switch.

Truck does not need brakes depressed for remote start. Trying to start the truck normally but without the brake pressed will just light up the instrument panel. Sounds like your symptoms.

Are your brake lights coming on when the pedal is pressed?

Yep, break lights come on when pressing on the break pedal, as expected
 
Ok cruiser experts, need help here. I was able to "Jumper" my old starter by connecting two leads of jumper cables to a long screwdriver touching the braided copper wire from the solenoid to the starter. it took a couple trys, but finally worked. If you are in a jam and get the dreaded starter,"Click" remove the heat shield and have someone push the starter button. when you hear the relay energize, clamp the jumpercable to the screwdriver and you can start the truck.

I purchased a rebuilt starter from Autozone ($155 vs dealer 356), worked on and off over the holiday weekend, probably 8 hrs total at a leisurely pace. replaced the starter. went for test drive, started a couple times no problem.
This morning go out to the truck to go to work.....no start. Dash goes dark, click, no turn over. Did check OBD codes, P335,340, 345,365,390
crank position sensor, cam position sensor, fuel...computer is not happy...
held test leads on battery while the Mrs. pushed the starter button. batter only dropped to 11.65v

my fear is bad starter from "the zone" cause it was a beeeeyotch to replace.

does anyone know of any other relay, fuse, or electrical connection that may be causing this?
Tundra forums mention a starter relay.
Duralast Relay 20282

at $70 and questionable avialability, would like to get some feedback or experience on this issue.

@bjowett have any input on new bad starter or other causes?

thanks

Is there a risk of electrocution? How do you protect yourself if you need to do this.
 
Is there a risk of electrocution? How do you protect yourself if you need to do this.

It's 12 volts DC, so no electrocution danger. It is a lot of amps flowing so you could do damage to parts if the screwdriver touches the wrong thing while connected to the battery. Think big sparks, mild welding action, scare the crap out of you stuff but not life threatening. Except for the tip that touches the solenoid/starter wire, and a space for the jumper cable to attach near the handle, cover the rest of any metal parts in some sort of tape that will not conduct. You could use masking tape or electrical tape. Don't connect the battery to the screwdriver until you have the tip of the screwdriver on the proper place of the starter wire. Did that all make sense?
 
It's 12 volts DC, so no electrocution danger. It is a lot of amps flowing so you could do damage to parts if the screwdriver touches the wrong thing while connected to the battery. Think big sparks, mild welding action, scare the crap out of you stuff but not life threatening. Except for the tip that touches the solenoid/starter wire, and a space for the jumper cable to attach near the handle, cover the rest of any metal parts in some sort of tape that will not conduct. You could use masking tape or electrical tape. Don't connect the battery to the screwdriver until you have the tip of the screwdriver on the proper place of the starter wire. Did that all make sense?

Yeah it did - thanks so much!

I found a 16” flat head s/d at Home Depot today - struggling to find anything longer in stock locally. Will that be long enough?
 
You also have to time when you connect the jumper cable to the screw driver. Only make contact after the start button is pressed? Then hold it there until it starts?

Thanks so much for your help!!!
 
I have been relaying what I've read, haven't had to do it yet myself.

Below is a quote from @TexAZ that is concise and agrees with all I've read.

You will need a long screwdriver, like 2 feet long. lay on the ground directly behind the passenger wheel. run the screwdriver up to the starter/solenoid wire in the picture, make firm contact with the wire, have someone else push the starter button, then press the jumper cable to the screwdriver. it make take a couple tries to get the timing down. and there will be several lights on the dash. but it will start the truck and get you home.
 
I have been relaying what I've read, haven't had to do it yet myself.

Below is a quote from @TexAZ that is concise and agrees with all I've read.

You will need a long screwdriver, like 2 feet long. lay on the ground directly behind the passenger wheel. run the screwdriver up to the starter/solenoid wire in the picture, make firm contact with the wire, have someone else push the starter button, then press the jumper cable to the screwdriver. it make take a couple tries to get the timing down. and there will be several lights on the dash. but it will start the truck and get you home.

Thank you for your assistance - I do appreciate it!
 
this looks like it could work well i think. Anything that long on amazon was $30 range. I think next time im at Harbor Freight (too bad i was just there this morning), i'll pick this set plus some chap 10G jumper cables



12' should be long enough?
 
this looks like it could work well i think. Anything that long on amazon was $30 range. I think next time im at Harbor Freight (too bad i was just there this morning), i'll pick this set plus some chap 10G jumper cables



12' should be long enough?

TWSS
 
this looks like it could work well i think. Anything that long on amazon was $30 range. I think next time im at Harbor Freight (too bad i was just there this morning), i'll pick this set plus some chap 10G jumper cables



12' should be long enough?
10 Gauge? That's the size of wires used to power an ARB reefer. Not near large enough IMHO But I have been wrong before.
 
I know it’s a tad off topic, but a page or so back someone mentioned a ‘proximity sensor’ failure in relation to the key not being detected in the truck.

my truck regularly says ‘key not detected’ after a start or regularly when running and a door (any door) is opened. it has never failed to start, just flashes the key not detected warning. And it stops flashing after 15-20 seconds.

i have tried multiple fobs and new batteries. No change in behavior.

Is the sensor actually a replaceable part??
 

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