Let's hear it...things you would NEVER do again or do differently. (1 Viewer)

[MountaineerLC]

Build out the LC. I will probably keep the next LC stock if I ever get one after this 100. This is my first build and after making all these mods, I'm not so sure a built truck is for me. Do you guys ever feel like that or is it just me?? This is where it sits today.

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Not just you. I built my last rig (a Land Rover) and enjoyed it, but my 100 is going to stay mostly stock. Even in stock form, I'm running a larger tire on the 100 than the rover with a 2" lift. IMO, the 285's fill the wheel wells nicely on a stock 100. I might give the torsions bars a crank to level it but that's about it. I'd like to add a roof rack down the road at some point as well.

 

[aging fleet]

I might give the torsions bars a crank to level it but that's about it.

A few simple cranks of the torsion bars, that's where it always starts.

 

[KershZ71]

One thing I learned from owning my 4Runner is to always buy OEM parts when possible. I understand if you are upgrading torsion bars, springs, etc..., but OEM sensors and engine parts will save you frustration later on.

 

[geanes]

Build out the LC. I will probably keep the next LC stock if I ever get one after this 100. This is my first build and after making all these mods, I'm not so sure a built truck is for me. Do you guys ever feel like that or is it just me?? This is where it sits today.

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I LOVE the look of a largely stock cruiser. If I get another, all I'd do is put on 34" tires, OPOR sliders and a Gamiviti rack. I'd leave everything else (except the running boards which I'd remove).

 

[CloudCity]

While greasing my sunroof tracks I accidentally greased the sunshade track also, which made it go from buttery smooth to dragging and very hard to move by hand. Next time I will verify exactly what tracks are used by the sunroof mechanism. It's getting easier to move with each cycle but I'm still pissed at myself for not slowing down and paying attention.

 

[Txcoast]

I LOVE the look of a largely stock cruiser. If I get another, all I'd do is put on 34" tires, OPOR sliders and a Gamiviti rack. I'd leave everything else (except the running boards which I'd remove).

Does this mean you'd skip the front bumper/bullbar? I'm trying to decide whether I want to go all in and install an ARB with a winch, or possibly just install a hidden which behind the front bumper. I'm set on getting a winch, but I am 50/50 on the bumper. I think the front of the LX looks too good to cover up, but I like the idea of more protection. First world problems.

 

[tarbe]

I wouldn't buy and hold 40,000 shares of Linn Energy.

Ouch!

 

[wsudu]

Being a shade tree welder I would have not bought the 4x4 labs bumper kit, rather I would have just bought the entire rear bumper built. It took a LOT more time with welding, second guessing, grinding, more welding, and painting. Plus three young kids at home, it was hard to get a solid chuck to work on it. With just the welding wire, gas, grinding disks and misc supplies, I think the cost alone would be closer to a built unit than you would think. But on the plus side it did help me lay down a better bead with the ol Lincoln.

 

[1sar39]

Dump $$$ and time into the AHC.

 

[scwpdrew]

Mine is minor, had a 2001 and wanted to do the “facelift” so I started buying parts. Sold the 01 and bought an 07.

Now I have a $150 lift gate badge, still brand new.

Second, bought SCS wheels, should have just bought the Methods to begin with.

Why the methods over scs?

 

[95Fantasma80]

Dump $$$ and time into the AHC.

im going to fall down the same rabbit hole and will report back if feel the same.

my current dont do again so far is not clean the excess grease that oozes when greasing zerks, it shot everywhere on under carriage and had to clean it up and not perfectly. doh'

 

[DTCsk8er]

Being a shade tree welder I would have not bought the 4x4 labs bumper kit, rather I would have just bought the entire rear bumper built. It took a LOT more time with welding, second guessing, grinding, more welding, and painting. Plus three young kids at home, it was hard to get a solid chuck to work on it. With just the welding wire, gas, grinding disks and misc supplies, I think the cost alone would be closer to a built unit than you would think. But on the plus side it did help me lay down a better bead with the ol Lincoln.

What about the design had you second guessing? Guess why I'm asking lol

 

[wsudu]

Well in that original post I was second-guessing my welds and if I wanted to grind them or not on certain areas. But also, there were a lot of phone calls to HD out in California to find out what certain things went to what or how to do something. If there was a booklet with pictures or a video exactly showing how to build this particular model, that would’ve helped me a lot.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Does this mean you'd skip the front bumper/bullbar? I'm trying to decide whether I want to go all in and install an ARB with a winch, or possibly just install a hidden which behind the front bumper. I'm set on getting a winch, but I am 50/50 on the bumper. I think the front of the LX looks too good to cover up, but I like the idea of more protection. First world problems.

I'd suggest a bumper over the winch. Maybe it depends on the terrain, but where I am... if I need a winch, I likely already needed a bumper...

 

[REZARF]

I wouldn't run 35's on a 100 again.

305-65-18 is perfect.

 

[084runnerltd]

Sell my 80 series....

 

[GVegasG]

U bolts are 100 bucks from the vendor I saw recently that makes 100 series sliders. Plus it should be easier/cheaper to design and sell a "100 series slider" that I have to do some welding on and actually is made for the 100 series but isnt fully put together and prepped for bolting on.

What else is the 300+ percent increase in price coming from between the "100 series" sliders and a generic? I presume its time and the ubolts, no?

Which vendor was/is that?
Edit: found it. It is MetalTech.

 

[Kofoed]

View attachment 1822618
R & R the frame bushings that hold the LCAs when I did an entire front end refresh at 250k. The bushings honestly looked fine, and were a major PITA to remove with a hammer, sawzall, torch you name it. Inhaled some rubber smoke that surely killed some brain matter. If and when I replace LCAs again, the bushings will remain.

I was able to get two out (one frmae and one LCA), and use those two to drift the others out (after removing sleeve and cutting with sawsall). That was an ordeal......Going back in was EASY lol

 

[ikarus]

I would probably save up some money, find a clean and rust free 100, SAS it, and then start modifying the bone stock "UZJ105." The money for UCAs, shocks, t-bars, springs, diff drop etc etc would give me a decent chunk of SAS $$.

I know that kind of money could buy me a nice 80, or a 200, but I like the V8 and I love the older body style, so for me that would be perfect, and a cruiser I could keep for a long time.

I would also know where to look for rust issues (rear quarter panels), watch out for poor windshield installation, and I'd find one with slightly better maintenance records. I don't regret my decisions but I've learned quite a bit. ha

 

[gungriffin]

I would probably save up some money, find a clean and rust free 100, SAS it, and then start modifying the bone stock "UZJ105." The money for UCAs, shocks, t-bars, springs, diff drop etc etc would give me a decent chunk of SAS $$.

I know that kind of money could buy me a nice 80, or a 200, but I like the V8 and I love the older body style, so for me that would be perfect, and a cruiser I could keep for a long time.

I would also know where to look for rust issues (rear quarter panels), watch out for poor windshield installation, and I'd find one with slightly better maintenance records. I don't regret my decisions but I've learned quite a bit. ha

I am definitely working to figure out some rust abatement around the front and rear hatch windows...