FJ60 Headers Conversion (2 Viewers)

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

I own a 1985 FJ60. I purchased it just this year so I am still learning a lot about the vehicle. I have the infamous exhaust leak at the manifold. It started out small but I feel like it is getting worse. I planned on picking up a set of headers because I’ve heard that many time the manifold can be cracked once you dig into it. I also picked up a RemFlex manifold gasket set.

My question is this. My FJ60 is not de-smogged. I would prefer not to do that conversion now and just tackle one thing at a time. I’ve notice on a lot of header listing it stated “suitable for FJ60 de-smogged.” I’ve also seen some threads in here that say you can simply remove and re-install everything and the header conversion is feasible. I’m not sure if there are any of the smog system vacuum lines running to the manifold or anything (obviously headers have no ports). I can’t see that great around the manifold without removing stuff. Can anyone verify for me if I can simply remove the manifold and replace it with headers or if it will have to be desmogged first? Thanks.

 

[NookShneer]

Headers don’t have a provision for the EGR system. So if you add headers you have to remove the EGR system.

At one point, I believe Manafre had a header with an EGR provision but I haven’t seen one available for purchase.

Remflex gasket is the way to go in my opinion.

Check out the SOR stud kit. It makes linning the intake & exhaust manifold easier since you can use the studs to hold the parts on while attaching vs. trying to find the bolt hoe on the block.

 

[NookShneer]

Here is what i’m Talking about:


With EGR

Without

Most common style 6into1

 

[Willard]

The old Downey had the provisioning for the EGR as well. No longer made, but you may be able to find one in the for sale section.

 

[OSS]

Why would anyone use an EGR valve with headers? Headers are illegal if a smog test is required for registration.

Although I've never used a header on a 2F, I've heard anecdotes from those who sell them who know. Someone who knew what they were talking about said: "if you install headers, you'll be chasing vacuum leaks forever".

That's his opinion.

There's nothing wrong with the stock manifold setup and a lot of good. My advice would be to remove the manifold assembly and have it machined flat. It's warped right now, that's why you've got leaks. Once milled flat, it works great and wil improve your mpg vs headers.

 

[CuCruiser]

I also have nothing good to say about remflex manifold gaskets. I tried them as a shortcut for machining the manifold and it lasted less than 300 miles before the layers separated. Yes I torqued them to remflex specifications. OK so I machined the manifolds and tried again. No better, they again separated and caused a leak.

I now have over 10,000 miles on a fel-pro gasket and no leaks.

 

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

Thanks for the replies. I may just stick with the manifold and have it machined rather than dealing with a desmog at the moment. I’ve heard mixed reviews on headers for the 2f. Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start so the cruiser isn’t down for weeks on end.

 

[Willard]

Thanks for the replies. I may just stick with the manifold and have it machined rather than dealing with a desmog at the moment. I’ve heard mixed reviews on headers for the 2f. Just want to make sure I have everything I need before I start so the cruiser isn’t down for weeks on end.

Good call, or if you do not want the down time, get a 2nd manifold and restore it, then you are all set and smog legal.
The headers are also a problem as you lose the heat riser and need a kit to get that back.
Not worth it in my opinion.

 

[CuCruiser]

Quick check you might do or already have done. The EGR port is a common leak and can be pretty loud. I've had that problem and thought it was the manifold.

 

[HemiAlex]

25,000 since I installed my re-machined exhaust manifold with a felpro gasket. No issues. I thought I had a leak, but it ended up being a warped flange at the downpipe.

 

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

So, I decided to go the manifold re-machined route. I pulled everything out and media-blasted and repainted the manifolds. Used POR15 on the exhaust manifold. They are at the machine shop now. I was amazed at how many bolts were loose or only finger tight! Everything from the exhaust flange, the EGR pipe, to the actual manifolds. It’s no wonder I had an exhaust leak. I’m replacing all gaskets while I’m in there as well as all vacuum hoses. I noticed a sensor or fitting of some type that is screwed into the top left on the intake manifold with a bunch of vacuum tubes hooked to it. Mine is broken clean off. Does anyone know what the name of the part is? Here are some progress pics.

 

[Cincodemustache]

That is a gas filter that threads into the intake. 90917-11027 is still available from Toyota.

So, I decided to go the manifold re-machined route. I pulled everything out and media-blasted and repainted the manifolds. Used POR15 on the exhaust manifold. They are at the machine shop now. I was amazed at how many bolts were loose or only finger tight! Everything from the exhaust flange, the EGR pipe, to the actual manifolds. It’s no wonder I had an exhaust leak. I’m replacing all gaskets while I’m in there as well as all vacuum hoses. I noticed a sensor or fitting of some type that is screwed into the top left on the intake manifold with a bunch of vacuum tubes hooked to it. Mine is broken clean off. Does anyone know what the name of the part is? Here are some progress pics.

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[Seth S]

I’ve got exhaust leak up there too. But contemplating using it as an excuse to go to a 3fe head and intake and exhaust and go megasquirt.

 

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

Thanks!

 

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

So I got the manifolds back from the shop and they look beautiful. I re-installed them and torqued to spec last night.

I’m in search of a part name or number. It’s a little sensor or something that screws in near the front of the engine. There are 2 of them right next to each other. Each has 2 little tubes for vacuum lines. I broke one of the tubes on the forward one. I looked around through the parts manual last night but didn’t have any luck. Does anyone know off the top to their head what the name or part number is? Thanks.

First 2 pics are the part I need. The rest are the freshly machined manifolds and before-after of my sandblasted and repainted air filter housing.

 

[Skeet]

Bimetal vacuum switching valves or BVSV 1 and BVSV 2. One is purple and one is pink. One is harder to source than the other.

 

[joebattle1]

I just replaced both of these. I got one from Cruiser Parts and one from SOR. If I remember correct... SOR shows the pink one as NLA but other vendors show a suitable replacement being the blue one. I think this is from an 80 maybe. I'm no expert that's for sure so don't quote me on it but here is what I ordered and put on. Here's a pick of them on as well.

Cruiserparts.net
B 90925-05046 - "Pink Now Blue for Thermostat Housing Early Land Cruiser"

sor.com
048-06E Violet

 

[Miloslavich]

question:

did the machine shop counter-sink the bolt holes so that the bolts put even pressure on the exhaust and intake side? or did you use washers / spacers?

normally after a resurface job i find that the surfiaces are not flush on the bolt / washer side.. where the head of the bolt goes.. this puts uneven pressure on the assembly and can cause cracking. ask me how i know!

i'm still looking for a shop that can do the counter sinking of the bolt holes AND resurface the faces..

 

[Nathan Kuwitzky]

I’ve read a lot of threads about how people use half washers to even out the bolt hole surfaces. I noticed when I pulled my manifolds off that they looked pretty even and there were no half washers. After I had them machined they still looked pretty even to me. Maybe I just lucked out!

 

[CuCruiser]

i'm still looking for a shop that can do the counter sinking of the bolt holes AND resurface the faces..

Just a note, It's doable without a machine shop, I did my own. Bought a counterbore and a pilot (dont remember what size off the top of my head) and used a run o the mill drill press. Miked all the flanges and then carefully brought the thicker one down to match its mate. Wasn't too hard but a little nerve wracking.

Reason being, I asked for it to be done on a set of manifolds, but they didn't understand what I was asking for I guess. So rather than risk thinning them any more, I risked ruining them myself!