What is target castor for 4" Landtank correction plates? (1 Viewer)

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Hey folks,

Title says it all. Trying to decide which plates are right for a 3"+ lift. I know the 2.5" plates target 2 degrees castor with 3 inch lift. Wondering what 4" plates target at 4" of lift.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

-- Beej
 
I'm also on the fence between these two plates. I prefer more caster to less and I already have a DC driveshaft, so I'm leaning towards the 4" plates, but interested in @landtank or @NLXTACY take on it.

I have a set of slee plates, but probably wont use them because I've read the landtank plates are less likely to cause tie rod interference.
 
I'm also on the fence between these two plates. I prefer more caster to less and I already have a DC driveshaft, so I'm leaning towards the 4" plates, but interested in @landtank or @NLXTACY take on it.

I have a set of slee plates, but probably wont use them because I've read the landtank plates are less likely to cause tie rod interference.

To date never had a tie rod interfere issue. At least no one has brought to my attention :p
 
I'm also on the fence between these two plates. I prefer more caster to less and I already have a DC driveshaft, so I'm leaning towards the 4" plates, but interested in @landtank or @NLXTACY take on it.

I have a set of slee plates, but probably wont use them because I've read the landtank plates are less likely to cause tie rod interference.

My plates rotate the axle 7*. The ending amount of caster is a result of the ending ride height of the truck. Caster changes about 1.75* per inch and at 4" of lift you would have to rotate the axle 7*, so theoretically it all works out but there are a lot of small variables that can influence the final reading. There is no contact with the arms or inner spring bump stop and the axle retains the factory location in the wheel well.

To achieve all of that requires a more involved install process and the right tools.
 
Hey folks,

Title says it all. Trying to decide which plates are right for a 3"+ lift. I know the 2.5" plates target 2 degrees castor with 3 inch lift. Wondering what 4" plates target at 4" of lift.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

-- Beej

2.5" plates target 3* at 2.5" and my 4.0" plates target 3* at 4.0". Those are theoretical lift heights and actual results will depend on actual final lift heights. Heights lower than theoretical will have more caster and heights higher than theoretical less caster.

3.0" of lift you will have 2* of caster with my 2.5" plates
3.5" of lift you will have 4* of caster with my 4.0" plates

between those two neither plate will provide a caster reading within Toyota's spec. of 2-4 degrees.
 
My plates rotate the axle 7*. The ending amount of caster is a result of the ending ride height of the truck. Caster changes about 1.75* per inch and at 4" of lift you would have to rotate the axle 7*, so theoretically it all works out but there are a lot of small variables that can influence the final reading. There is no contact with the arms or inner spring bump stop and the axle retains the factory location in the wheel well.

To achieve all of that requires a more involved install process and the right tools.
Awesome. Thanks Rick. What im reading is 1.75 x advertised lift height (2.5" or 4" figure) = amount of castor correction
 
Awesome. Thanks Rick. What im reading is 1.75 x advertised lift height (2.5" or 4" figure) = amount of castor correction

Don't use advertised lift height. Variations in truck builds will yield different overall truck weights and result in varying ride heights and caster needs. It's best to build out the truck and take readings afterwards or find a similar built truck with the same springs and take measurements or lastly talk with someone and make your best guess.
 
Don't use advertised lift height. Variations in truck builds will yield different overall truck weights and result in varying ride heights and caster needs. It's best to build out the truck and take readings afterwards or find a similar built truck with the same springs and take measurements or lastly talk with someone and make your best guess.
Agree. By advertised lift height, I meant what the plates were advertised at and not what a lift claims it will give. Once you put an individual truck in the mix, the amount of castor that NEEDS correction can very greatly but the 4" plates will correct for about 7* regardless. The final castor will depend on the individual truck and equipment.

I think all this info was available to me before but i just didnt put it together until now. I appreciate you taking the time to spell it out.
 
I'm also on the fence between these two plates. I prefer more caster to less and I already have a DC driveshaft, so I'm leaning towards the 4" plates, but interested in @landtank or @NLXTACY take on it.

I have a set of slee plates, but probably wont use them because I've read the landtank plates are less likely to cause tie rod interference.
@Heckraiser what is your measured lift height? Based on what we have here, if youre 3.5 or over, the 4" will get you in spec, and if youre 3" and under, the 2.5" will get you in spec. If your are between 3" and 3.5" neither will get you in spec, youll be about .5 degrees off one way or another depending on your choice.
 

I can tell you that you will have some serious tie rod interference if you use these and are not lifted at least 7 inches

IMG_20180922_172631.jpg


IMG_20180922_172608.jpg
 
@Heckraiser what is your measured lift height? Based on what we have here, if youre 3.5 or over, the 4" will get you in spec, and if youre 3" and under, the 2.5" will get you in spec. If your are between 3" and 3.5" neither will get you in spec, youll be about .5 degrees off one way or another depending on your choice.

I'd have to check again, but I believe I am right at 3" (23" hub to flare). Given my personal driving preference, and the fact I've already got a DC shaft, I think I'm going to go with the 4" plates and be "overcorrected." If I swap out my suspension at any point, I will go same or higher, but not lower.
 
I can tell you that you will have some serious tie rod interference if you use these and are not lifted at least 7 inches

hoy much lift / coils you have .?
 
I'd have to check again, but I believe I am right at 3" (23" hub to flare). Given my personal driving preference, and the fact I've already got a DC shaft, I think I'm going to go with the 4" plates and be "overcorrected." If I swap out my suspension at any point, I will go same or higher, but not lower.

if you are indead st 23.0" i wouldnt use my 4" plates. i consider that a 2.5" lift.
 
Not exactly price competitive, but I agree, a great product :)
 
@Delta VS how many degrees of castor does each set adjust for?
 
Quoted from another thread: Delta VS Radius Arms

Delta VS said:
They are designed to be at the high end of stock caster range (2*-4*) at stated lift. As in, the 2” lift arms put you at 4* at 2” of lift. This means at 1” of lift you are slightly more than 4*, a decision we made based on a lot of drive testing. Having slightly more caster, but not excessive, makes driving way nicer when it comes to handling. It also makes it so if you have 3” of lift, you can choose the 2” arms OR the 4” arms, depending on your desired caster. For example, if you have 3” of lift you could choose the 2” arms and have something close to the minimum Toyota spec for caster OR you could choose the 4” arms and have slightly more than the Toyota spec caster. Working on a chart that shows actual caster at different heights for each arm.

IMO, this is the way to go. I don't care what the "middle of spec" is, I want 4* or more if I can get away with it. Setting up various leaf-sprung trucks in the past, I always aimed for 4-6* apples/oranges, but it really does improve the road manners.
 
+1 for the delta arms. I was inpatient and got the slee arms. It also helped that they are 10 minutes from me but boy those delta arms are nice. I almost thought about buying the delta ones and selling the slee arms but that will be a big loss.
 

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