My mechanic had the cylinder head cover... (1 Viewer)

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May 31, 2018
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Okaloosa County, Florida
...off of the engine at the shop. The goal was to replace the gasket and to check and adjust the valves. Well, the gasket was replaced, but not much else, as well as keeping the old cover in place. I'll have to wait now until I have time to get the head off of the engine, as I can't clean this off without great risk.

What do you think about this mess?

What mighrt have caused this?

Have you seen it before? If so, how did you remedy the problem?

Land Cruiser - Rocker Arm-1.jpg


Land Cruiser - Rocker Arm-2.jpg


Land Cruiser - Rocker Arm-11.jpg
 
That’s a mess.

I’d remove the rocker assembly and pushrods and clean everything in a parts washer.

Remove the oil pan and clean degrease everything you can get to - remove the oil pump and clean it in a parts washer.

Put it back together and run it on synthetic oil. Take it on a few trips that really let the engine get hot.

Change the oil frequently.
 
With any disassembly of that engine, you want to be careful not to knock any more junk into the oil pan than necessary. Frequent oil changes (perhaps with a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil or some sort of detergent-type product mixed in) are a good idea.

Did you just buy the truck, or do you know the history? Clearly, it suffered rare oil changes!
 
you want to be careful not to knock any more junk into the oil pan than necessary
If he is going to pull the pan and clean the pump and it why would that be a concern?
 
Did you just buy the truck, or do you know the history? Clearly, it suffered rare oil changes!

I only know the last 26-27 years of it's history.

I've used synthetic oil in it for most of that time, only going off synthetic oil when I was advised to go to a high-mileage oil. I've tried to change the oil myself every 5-6k miles, but wasn't always around to get it done. A few years ago, I noticed that the oil was very dirty on the dipstick just after a few hundred miles after the oil change, and went back to synthetic. It's been driven only about 9,500 miles in the last twelve years, with three oil/filter changes in that time. (About four months ago, it became my DD again after my other car went to college.) Going back 15 years, or so, there were times when it sat mostly idle for six to nine months, maybe more. And it has been mostly used for going on short trips, stop and go, for less than 15 miles during that time; rarely going over 45 MPH. I know of one other time when it was operated with very little oil onboard, and the "this time" being two weeks ago when it started leaking oil badly during a local trip, ending with a small puddle of oil on my driveway and no oil on the dipstick when it was checked. The cylinder head cover gasket failed and I had a considerable leak, so hopefully, the new gasket will take care of the leaks. (The oil pan is tight, and doesn't appear to leak.)

As far as a way ahead, it's going to get a treatment comparable to what FJACS recommended when I can get it done. I am going to have someone else do it, though; I just don't have the time right now. I may even trailer it out to get it done by someone more familiar with old Toyota trucks. But first, the oil and filter get changed no later than this coming Tuesday, and I'll send an oil sample out for analysis, too.

I've obviously neglected her, so now it's time to give her some special care.
 
Drain the oil and fill it with trans fluid and let it idle for a while. Lather, rinse, repeat a few times and it should clean it up quite a bit.
 
Penzoil ? back in the 80s when I ran a shop this is what engines looked like that ran pennzoil .. and not changed regularly.
 
Drain the oil and fill it with trans fluid and let it idle for a while. Lather, rinse, repeat a few times and it should clean it up quite a bit.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not sure I want all of that junk floating around in my engine. Besides oil sludge, there is a considerable amount of carbon residue in the mix. I thought about taking a shop vac with a small nozzle to it while it was open, but the guy doing the work for me advised against it. After thinking about it for a while, about two seconds, I saw his point and agreed with him. I'm planning on the cylinder head coming off so that none of this finds its way into the valves or cylinders.
 
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Penzoil ? back in the 80s when I ran a shop this is what engines looked like that ran pennzoil .. and not changed regularly.

I don't know that Pennzoil was ever used in an oil change since I've owned it. A couple of times when I was away for extended periods of time, my wife took it to an oil change business, and they may have used Pennzoil, or whatever brand they were associated with. Early on, I always used either Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic oils in changes, and did them all myself.

Some time ago, someone recommended that I start using a high mileage oil, so I went to Castrol non-synthetic for a couple of changes. Then my mechanic told me to quit the high-mileage and go back to synthetic, so I did. I had to top it off with regular oil a time or two, and when it started leaking after I started driving it regularly about four months ago, I just added regular since I didn't like leaking the expensive oil and didn't get the leak pinpointed and fixed for a while. After it got so bad and I almost ran it dry, I used regular Castrol 50 weight oil.

I don't ever plan to use anything but synthetic again. Nor neglecting my engine like this.
 
If you think that looks bad, take a peek behind the pushrod cover. I bet it's a solid clay moulded casting of sludge.
And if you think that looks bad, if you remove the oil pan and peer at that black mess, you'll have nightmares for a fortnight.

The problem with sludge (caused by infrequent oil changes, cool running temperatures, low quality oil and poorly ventilated crankcase- check the PCV valve) is that it will dislodge once you try to start cleaning it and travel in the oil passageways and clog them- starving certain areas of oil....that could lead to premature beating failure and an early engine tear down.

Unfortunately there is no safe way to clean a sludge clogged engine like yours without disassembling everything. The correct course of action is a complete engine tear down and hot tank of everything. But since you're not going to do that- really all you can do is cross your fingers and save your money and wonder each time you start the engine each morning if today will be its last.
 
Penzoil ? back in the 80s when I ran a shop this is what engines looked like that ran pennzoil .. and not changed regularly.

I remember that too. Years ago my dad and I pulled the valve cover on my sisters car that was run on pennziol and it looked like a jello mold of the rocker shaft inside the cover.

Wish I had a picture of it. Totally packed full with sludge.
 
But but but ... Pennzoil swears by its stuff:

 
Unfortunately there is no safe way to clean a sludge clogged engine like yours without disassembling everything. The correct course of action is a complete engine tear down and hot tank of everything. But since you're not going to do that- really all you can do is cross your fingers and save your money and wonder each time you start the engine each morning if today will be its last.

I haven't ruled that out, and in fact, I'm fairly sure that I'm going to find someone to take the head off of the engine and do a thorough cleaning of the top side. I'm also planning on dropping the oil pan and and cleaning it, as well as the oil pump. I'll likely have some help at our U-Fix-It shop and will receive advice on what else I need to do while I've dropped the oil pan. What else do you think I need to do/have done?

And interesting that you mention the PCV valve. It was shot and the hose was completely blocked.

One part I have to reconcile is whether a rebuilt engine swap out or cleaning up the one I have will be better economically. If it's somewhat close, I'll definitely keep the original engine. Thank you for your advice!
 
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I remember that too. Years ago my dad and I pulled the valve cover on my sisters car that was run on pennziol and it looked like a jello mold of the rocker shaft inside the cover.

Wish I had a picture of it. Totally packed full with sludge.


When I had my first car, I was told the same thing about Quaker State. Couldn't you run into this with any brand if the engine is neglected enough?
 
If the engine is running OK, I wouldn't use any 'engine cleaners' etc, I'd just use a Diesel 5w40 Full synthetic like Rotella T6 with some zddp additive and change if every 3K miles.

Diesel oils have much higher levels of detergents and *might* clean some of that up over time, but OSS is right, really needs disassembly for thorough cleaning.
 
If the engine is running OK, I wouldn't use any 'engine cleaners' etc, I'd just use a Diesel 5w40 Full synthetic like Rotella T6 with some zddp additive and change if every 3K miles.

Diesel oils have much higher levels of detergents and *might* clean some of that up over time, but OSS is right, really needs disassembly for thorough cleaning.
It is running well.

Going back into my maintenance records, I found a note about burned oil and build up in the oil filler and on the oil cap from November 2004. This isn't new, although it likely is getting worse as time goes by.
 

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