Builds Sold! Land Crusher - 1993 FZJ80 3x Locked - Introduction and Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[davidp14]

It was hot AF today in Austin, so I didn't get out in the garage until after the sun went down. Made a little bit of progress while waiting on items to get back from powder-coater.

I used the flex-plate inspection access to put a 14mm deep impact socket on the flex plate bolt and immobilize the crank. Then used this badass 3/4" drive 38" long breaker bar to loosen the 33mm crank bolt. It was still pretty difficult to loosen. Can't imagine doing it with a smaller breaker.

I also noticed that I am randomly missing a bolt on the transmission bell housing.

I was able to follow this badass writeup and remove the oil pump cover plate (How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics). Used a #3 JIS bit, small hammer, and a 1/4" socket. They came out without a hiccup, which I was very pleased with.

d

Finally, I took the opportunity to compare the OEM JIS screws with some stainless Allens I had.

The OEM screws are about 13.45mm

The M6 stainless Allen bolts I had were just a hair under 12mm.

Obviously on such a short fastener, thread engagement is important. But I can't imagine the oil pump cover sees much load.

At this point I'm not sure if I am going to replace them with new OEM screws, or aftermarket stainless torx/allens. In the perfect world I would use M6x1.0 flathead stainless steel torx that are exactly 13.45mm long. Finding flathead stainless steel M6 torx is a tall order in itself. Let alone 13.45mm long, which is an uncommon size.

nice work van! where'd you get that BF breaker bar? my minuscule 1/2 breaker is the only thing keeping from doing my front main and oil pump seal right now. Im worried that the HF one is too short. this is probably the only job it will ever have though so i dont want to spend a bunch of $$ on a one and done tool.

btw i ordered a flexi head seal puller from amazon..saw it in OTRAMM's vid. havent used it but it might be the ticket to get the seal out....i hope

 

[Will Van]

nice work van! where'd you get that BF breaker bar? my minuscule 1/2 breaker is the only thing keeping from doing my front main and oil pump seal right now. Im worried that the HF one is too short. this is probably the only job it will ever have though so i dont want to spend a bunch of $$ on a one and done tool.

btw i ordered a flexi head seal puller from amazon..saw it in OTRAMM's vid. havent used it but it might be the ticket to get the seal out....i hope

I actually bit the bullet and bought a Snap-On 3/4” drive torque wrench on EBay that is beautiful. Then I just bought a cheap 30mm 3/4” drive socket. I broke it loose with a 3/4” breaker bar off Amazon.

Edit: I said 1/2” breaker bar, but I actually bought a cheap 3/4” breaker off Amazon to break it loose.

 

[LC4LIFE]

Nice work on this. Also, what fittings are these? I am going to be adding a cooler soon.

 

[Will Van]

Nice work on this. Also, what fittings are these? I am going to be adding a cooler soon.

View attachment 1812864

They are 1/4” NPT to -6AN fittings. And then -6AN 90 degree push-lock fittings to 3/8” Fragola hose.

• 1/4” NPT to -6AN: SUM-220647B
• -6AN Push Lock: FRA-209006-BL
• Derale Cooler: 13260
• Fragola/Parker 3/8” Hose: FRA-871006

Edit: I said 45 degree push lock fittings, but they’re actually 90 degree.

 

[LC4LIFE]

They are 1/4” NPT to -6AN fittings. And then -6AN 45 degree push-lock fittings to 3/8” Fragola hose.

1/4” NPT to -6AN: SUM-220647B
-6AN Push Lock: FRA-209006-BL

Thanks! super clean install.

 

[Will Van]

Thanks! super clean install.

Thanks!

 

[davidp14]

I actually bit the bullet and bought a Snap-On 3/4” drive on EBay that is beautiful. Then I just bought a cheap 30mm 3/4” drive socket. I broke it loose with a 1/2” breaker bar.

You broke the HB lose with a 1/2 breaker?

 

[Will Van]

You broke the HB lose with a 1/2 breaker?

No, sorry I misspoke. I used a 3/4” breaker bar to break the crank pulley bolt loose.

 

[Will Van]

I did my first shakedown run this morning. Everything went great! Water temp was holding steady between 188 and 192 degrees the whole time. Ron Davis radiator and Land Tank fan clutch are working great. Also, I luckily did not burn up the power steering pump after running it low on fluid. After adding fluid, it’s working flawlessly.

I need to adjust the exhaust because it’s hitting a heat shield. Then a bunch more random stuff. But overall, truck is back on the road and running well!

More updates and pics soon!

 

[Will Van]

What do you guys think of the radiator temperatures? Should it be holding steady between 188 and 192? Is that a little high? Ambient today is 65.


Edit: It looks like standard operating temp is 180 - 210. So I’m right where I need to be!

 

[Will Van]

I’m about to start the install of my second battery with the Slee dual battery kit and IBS management system. What battery should I use? My current battery is a Costco Interstate battery, which I’m happy with. But I went on Interstate’s website, and their premium battery swaps the positive post to the driver’s side.

I notice a lot of people use an Optima battery, but I’m not sure why. I thought you only used an Optima if the battery was mounted in the cab, or at an awkward angle, because they’re sealed. Do they offer better performance over a conventional battery?

 

[Ronny Grady]

I like my North Star 27f

Battery Information

 

[Will Van]

Well, I didn’t work on my dual battery today, but I did take another shakedown run out to the lake. Central Texas is experiencing some crazy precipitation, so all of our lakes are over-full. I thought I’d go check out our property and put some miles on the Cruiser.

I also got my BIO step-sliders partially installed. Driver’s side is great.

Passenger side needs some adjustment.

I can’t get the plate to mount to the frame correctly.

 

[Will Van]

A few pics of Lake Travis over 100% capacity. The barn is not usually under water. That’s an 8 foot tall door in the photo.

Coolant temperature on the trip never got over 196 degrees F. Driving was approximately 80 miles of various conditions - stop and go, highway, idling, and rolling hills.

 

[davidp14]

Part time? I must have missed that.

Nice looking 80

 

[Will Van]

Edit: I’m an idiot and they’re just M8 threads that were dirty.

Ran into a small hiccup while installing the BIO step-sliders that I alluded to earlier. The BIO sliders are actually designed for '95-'97 trucks with in-line catalytic converters. I decided I would risk it and make them work on my '93. This involved deleting PAIR, relocating O2 sensors to exhaust manifolds, upgrading to a Magnaflow downpipe, blocking off the extra O2 port on the Magnaflow, and converting to the Otramm exhaust. This worked well, and the sliders match up with the frame when the side-by-side cats are out of the way.

This issue is the plate mount on the passenger's side slider. The majority of sliders mount with U-bolts that wrap around the frame, and then a plate that bolts to the frame at the cat. That's how my BIO sliders are. Here are photos of other sliders so you can see what I'm talking about.

The blind nuts are welded into the frame on my '93, and match up with the BIO slider. But they use an M7x1.0 bolt (I think. I could never get the supplied M8 bolts, or any M8 bolts, to thread into the blind nuts on my '93).

Unfortunately the M7 just isn't beefy enough. The slider doesn't sit perfectly flush with the frame. When I would attach the plate at the front with the M7 bolts, and then snug down the U-bolts at the rear, the U-bolts would want to pull the plate out away from the frame. I pulled several M7 bolts out of the nut at the front, while tightening the U-bolt straps at the rear. So at this point, I'm not exactly sure what to do. I may drill the M7 nuts out of the frame, and upgrade to bigger bolts with stainless steel nutserts (M8 or M10). Obviously, I could weld the plate in place, and then it isn't going anywhere. But I'd prefer not to do that so I can take off the slider if I need to.

I'm also not 1,000% sure that the blind nuts at the front of the frame are actually M7x1.0. After the M8 wouldn't work, I used my tap and die set to figure out what size it was. M7x1.0 seemed correct. Then I ran to Lowe's and purchased M7x1.0 bolts, and they threaded right in by hand. But you wouldn't think an M7x1.0 would just pop out of the nut either.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

A few pics of Lake Travis over 100% capacity. The barn is not usually under water. That’s an 8 foot tall door in the photo.

Coolant temperature on the trip never got over 196 degrees F. Driving was approximately 80 miles of various conditions - stop and go, highway, idling, and rolling hills.

Having owned the first Ron Davis sealing the shroud is key

 

[Will Van]

Ran into a small hiccup while installing the BIO step-sliders that I alluded to earlier. The BIO sliders are actually designed for '95-'97 trucks with in-line catalytic converters. I decided I would risk it and make them work on my '93. This involved deleting PAIR, relocating O2 sensors to exhaust manifolds, upgrading to a Magnaflow downpipe, blocking off the extra O2 port on the Magnaflow, and converting to the Otramm exhaust. This worked well, and the sliders match up with the frame when the side-by-side cats are out of the way.

This issue is the plate mount on the passenger's side slider. The majority of sliders mount with U-bolts that wrap around the frame, and then a plate that bolts to the frame at the cat. That's how my BIO sliders are. Here are photos of other sliders so you can see what I'm talking about.

The blind nuts are welded into the frame on my '93, and match up with the BIO slider. But they use an M7x1.0 bolt (I think. I could never get the supplied M8 bolts, or any M8 bolts, to thread into the blind nuts on my '93).

Unfortunately the M7 just isn't beefy enough. The slider doesn't sit perfectly flush with the frame. When I would attach the plate at the front with the M7 bolts, and then snug down the U-bolts at the rear, the U-bolts would want to pull the plate out away from the frame. I pulled several M7 bolts out of the nut at the front, while tightening the U-bolt straps at the rear. So at this point, I'm not exactly sure what to do. I may drill the M7 nuts out of the frame, and upgrade to bigger bolts with stainless steel nutserts (M8 or M10). Obviously, I could weld the plate in place, and then it isn't going anywhere. But I'd prefer not to do that so I can take off the slider if I need to.

I'm also not 1,000% sure that the blind nuts at the front of the frame are actually M7x1.0. After the M8 wouldn't work, I used my tap and die set to figure out what size it was. M7x1.0 seemed correct. Then I ran to Lowe's and purchased M7x1.0 bolts, and they threaded right in by hand. But you wouldn't think an M7x1.0 would just pop out of the nut either.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

I’m an idiot. They’re just regular M8x1.25 threads. I cleaned them out with a tap and some oil and finished the install. They were just full of trash and wouldn’t thread in.

Passenger side installed. Now for the bumper. And the dual battery. And the Satoshi grill. And the...

 

[Will Van]

Having owned the first Ron Davis sealing the shroud is key

I’m not sure what you’re saying? Are you suggesting that 196 degrees is too hot? And that sealing the shroud to the radiator would bring the temps down?

 

[Will Van]

Engine bay porn.