Hooking up Charcoal canister and fuel seperater (2 Viewers)

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Can anyone reply with a photo of the Fuel Separator hooked up so it's clear to see where each of the 3 hoses attaches? Or... should i hook the hoses up how they are aligned in this picture? Where as from left to right on the fuel separator, hose 1 connects to the farthest driver side (LHD) hard line and hose 3 connects to the farthest driver side hard line on the tank?

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When I replaced my tank I made sure to identify what hoses went where and installed how they were previously installed. But as I was looking at them I was trying to understand if it really mattered. If you look at the tank the three lines are situated at the top of the tank to capture vapor. Then on the separator the three connections run to one hose. It’s like a 4 pronged splitter effectively (or at least it appears that way). Perhaps @GA Architect can chime in as I know he did some work on his tank and separator.

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The order or placement of the hoses between the tank and the seperator doesn't matter. Each hose carries fumes from one baffled section of the tank up to the separator and then all of the fumes are drawn off the top of the separator to the charcoal canister.
 
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I'm not sure that it matters which line goes where on the separator....But you can check out post #8 -> click here <- and that is what I did.
 
Yes, the one on the side of the tank. What do I hook it to after adding a Weber carb?

Being the Weber doesn't have a return fuel line, securely cap the nipple on the tank. Be sure to use a cap that is applicable for the application.
 
Some Webers supposedly have a fuel return line, but I've never seen it.



(at 5:20). My Nissan runs a Weber, but the Z24 has a fuel return line built into the hardline right before the carb, OEM. I've heard of people creating a return line by placing an orifice (like a properly sized carb jet) into a fuel hose after a T, along their main fuel line, right before the carb's air horn. You might not need at T, but employ the capped side of the inlet with a second barb and a captivated 1mm orifice, but that is just speculation. I'd consider using the return line to keep fuel flowing; but, it isn't a stock set-up on earlier tanks, although, fuel vaporized less before ethanol was added to gas.

Also, my Weber (32/36 DGV) runs a float bowl vent back to the canister, with additional connections at the OEM canister. The Nissan canister differs from the 40s, having its vapor purge not operated by a Vacuum Switching Valve and computer ('75 US spec), but a simple vacuum purge valve on top of the canister, similar to the two-part GM design-which can be obtained aftermarket-new, with freshly activated carbon, not this half-a-century-old material.

If you do cap your tank's return, be sure that the cap can hold up to fuel vapor, I've had vacuum caps that disintegrate after 6 months.
 
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Thanks for the info. After I posted my question, I decided to plug the line. I have a vacuum line from the purge port on the canister hooked to manifold vacuum, the large port on the tank run to my air filter housing, and the tank port running back to the tank separator. It fired right up, and ran smoothly after I did all of this.
 

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