The GPM in that engine is a larger number than your 40's MPG so that should make you feel better...? no? 
Builds Shipwreck (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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- Thread starter
- #2,462
While I fully subscribe to allusion and illusion in cars - I don't think I could get that whale down.The GPM in that engine is a larger number than your 40's MPG so that should make you feel better...? no?
Here - let me illustrate - "sure I spend thousands on an old Corvette to make it almost as fast as a newer Corvette that costs less money; what's your point?"
It's only money, right?
- Thread starter
- #2,464
This is finished - and yeah, that guy who was so irritated that I had the audacity to trade my other trailer off... lol. I planned to build a trailer long before the trade mostly because that other trailer was well-beyond unsafe*.... I hope he's using it now 
wood
stained wood
installed wood
there was a question of how it works
pull the pins, widen the fenders
if you have a lifted 4x4 - you simply drive on
now here's the deal I'm not certain how I'm going to solve - be it ramps, ram, or simply put the hi-lift in place to hold it up.
once you drive past the center
it comes back down (remember I had 2 criteria, 4x4 AND tall enough? here's why)
noisy, but it works
most likely I'll put ramps and a ram (not hydraulic lift unless one falls in my lap for freebie pricing)
there we go
and yes, combined that's about 6800 lbs - well within the trailer and truck's capacity - let me say it again, having a jake brake on a little pickup is very cool
*fun story - when I hauled my press brake back, I tightened down on the binder chains then had to loosen them a bit because it was bending the trailer
wood
stained wood
installed wood
there was a question of how it works
pull the pins, widen the fenders
if you have a lifted 4x4 - you simply drive on
now here's the deal I'm not certain how I'm going to solve - be it ramps, ram, or simply put the hi-lift in place to hold it up.
once you drive past the center
it comes back down (remember I had 2 criteria, 4x4 AND tall enough? here's why)
noisy, but it works
most likely I'll put ramps and a ram (not hydraulic lift unless one falls in my lap for freebie pricing)
there we go
and yes, combined that's about 6800 lbs - well within the trailer and truck's capacity - let me say it again, having a jake brake on a little pickup is very cool
*fun story - when I hauled my press brake back, I tightened down on the binder chains then had to loosen them a bit because it was bending the trailer
I would go your route too if I only had the land to store a truck and trailer. Oh and gobs of money too. That always helps.
- Thread starter
- #2,466
what's funny is I have land, but most of it I'd get in trouble if I used it... lord I hate Seattle.
As I get a moment here or there, I work on this
and this wiring is wrong - don't even need to hook it up to realize this.... ah well, moving a couple wires around is pretty easy
then onto figuring out how to wire the pump and figure out why the tailstock seems stuck then do a bunch of cleaning.
wish I could have used it today - ah well, a bit at a time
As I get a moment here or there, I work on this
and this wiring is wrong - don't even need to hook it up to realize this.... ah well, moving a couple wires around is pretty easy
then onto figuring out how to wire the pump and figure out why the tailstock seems stuck then do a bunch of cleaning.
wish I could have used it today - ah well, a bit at a time
- Thread starter
- #2,467
I was late taking it off and now early putting it on... ugh
for those who want to know how to install.... first the frame, is easy.... then start at the front
then slide the above-door bits
then the side
then spend the rest of your day pulling the motor from a mouse infested denali
a lift is nice for this stuff
attach chains and pull tomorrow... the reason it's here is I think this is where this motor will eventually end up.... but then again, diesel would be fun too
for those who want to know how to install.... first the frame, is easy.... then start at the front
then slide the above-door bits
then the side
then spend the rest of your day pulling the motor from a mouse infested denali
a lift is nice for this stuff
attach chains and pull tomorrow... the reason it's here is I think this is where this motor will eventually end up.... but then again, diesel would be fun too
- Thread starter
- #2,468
some wondered how the tilt works.... here it is
and voila
and the only part I wanted.... I'd almost haul it to scrap tomorrow but some bits are needed so I'll wait until Monday
and voila
and the only part I wanted.... I'd almost haul it to scrap tomorrow but some bits are needed so I'll wait until Monday
- Thread starter
- #2,469
while I wait for my friend to finish his wiring project, I did get some cleaning done. This is fun, rebuild a foreign-made lathe without any experience or a handbook - what could go wrong?
it's stuck. I'm 90% certain that there's merely something that needs loosening to make it move - but I have no frick'in clue of what that is... can't wait to find out the find out who's going to pipe in "well, yeah, I knew that"..."thanks for the help future jerk"
I did knock the locking clamp out - so at least the 'easy' is done... I also drained some penetrant into it in case it's simply gummy inside
I also took the toolpost off and cleaned it - I don't remember who said it - but they were right, this thing needs a thorough clean
I still like it, though, I'm sure it needs a bunch of fixes and work but the challenge is cool too
it's stuck. I'm 90% certain that there's merely something that needs loosening to make it move - but I have no frick'in clue of what that is... can't wait to find out the find out who's going to pipe in "well, yeah, I knew that"..."thanks for the help future jerk"
I did knock the locking clamp out - so at least the 'easy' is done... I also drained some penetrant into it in case it's simply gummy inside
I also took the toolpost off and cleaned it - I don't remember who said it - but they were right, this thing needs a thorough clean
I still like it, though, I'm sure it needs a bunch of fixes and work but the challenge is cool too
- Thread starter
- #2,470
I actually used it
I used my lathe to open up the rotors for my Corvette (which is my 'boring' 427 powered, Camaro suspended, 76 Corvette - those are 14" rotors)
it feetz
and I messed a bit with the holder
both these places are holes that do not seem to have a purpose. the top one seems to be a cast hole but the hole underneath seems to have some kind of pin in it. If it did, I can't imagine the pushing up on the keyway would stop the center
I dunno, I also tried the fine adjustment (behind the wheel) and it doesn't seem to work either.
I used my lathe to open up the rotors for my Corvette (which is my 'boring' 427 powered, Camaro suspended, 76 Corvette - those are 14" rotors)
it feetz
and I messed a bit with the holder
both these places are holes that do not seem to have a purpose. the top one seems to be a cast hole but the hole underneath seems to have some kind of pin in it. If it did, I can't imagine the pushing up on the keyway would stop the center
I dunno, I also tried the fine adjustment (behind the wheel) and it doesn't seem to work either.
According to Google I think those holes are called "buco senza valore".
- Thread starter
- #2,472
alrighty then
so I knocked the spindle out - it's sitting with penetrating fluid in it.... hopefully it works its way down. There is a bit of rust here - so who knows, maybe it's a rust lock
so I knocked the spindle out - it's sitting with penetrating fluid in it.... hopefully it works its way down. There is a bit of rust here - so who knows, maybe it's a rust lock
- Thread starter
- #2,473
DIY tune had a sale today, this is getting a microsquirt. That means I give up on the stock computer. I can't convince myself to toss the new motor and use the LS, and simply buying a new chip seems like a waste of money when a new computer isn't 'that' much more ($175 v. $330). Add to this that there are people even here who have done this - and this makes the most sense. Not just that but I have ideas for my dash, so a rewire sometime during the next few months isn't a bad idea at all.
Mega squirt will be nice, but I think the EBL flash would have been a whole lot less work with the same results.
- Thread starter
- #2,475
Valid point but:
1) you're relying on someone else to program the chip, I always love the 'you can send it back if it doesn't work' warranty. About the 3rd time you're sending it back, with the 2-4 week wait with a brick for a vehicle during that time... sure, they could get it right the first time, but I've already had to take their harness apart and fix burrs; so I do not have confidence in them (Howards).
2) you're stuck with blinking lights for it to tell you what's wrong
3) the wiring is stand alone - and I think when I bought the GM TBIs, I took the harness too - so I can bench build this without taking the rig out of service (and shush about going 4x4ing not being a service, the world needs 38" ditches)
4) if I change transmissions, I need to get another $175 flash.
5) the new computer is waterproof.
I almost went with FItech or Holley for a complete restart because EFI is more efficient at higher fuel pressures. The TBI system runs at 11 psi - however, higher pressure equals better atomization.... but it's $750 more. Fortunately, when I built the system, I thought about that.... thus the fuel pump on the rail rather then the tank (which, of course, is moot now with Holley's intank systems - they have carb through efi pumps that fit the same in-tank system).
there is one more reason that has nothing to do with this but is something for me. I built this stuff to learn, I also have a MS3x system waiting in the wings for a twin-turbo 430 ci Buick motor (and another for a 3.8 hot-air turbo Buick motor)..... learning the system on a rig that has some margin for error in its design will pay dividends down the road on the builds that are coming immediately after my Corvette build.
and still, you are right - I hate wiring and am not looking forward to doing it.
Come on, go FITech, you know you want to 
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- Thread starter
- #2,477
and the wipers don't work. sigh. fortunately I found out tonight rather then Thursday.
I want diesel, I'm doing DIYtunes.....
I want diesel, I'm doing DIYtunes.....
Sucks when the wipers don't work right. Especially in the PNW. My problem is more that they don't turn off after they warm up.
I just did a tear down and rebuild (read clean-up, brushes were pristine) of my wiper motor. Issue for me was the grease hardened and would no longer allow the wipers to move. I'm not sure what the original grease is, but it looked/smelled like cosmoline.
I had the hard grease also. It didn't take much to clean and re-lube. I took the opportunity to clean the commutator and dress the brushes which were less than 1/4 left. I look forward to learning where SB gets his replacement brushes from. I think there are some part numbers listed elsewhere on Mud. My biggest problem is a park switch that has never worked well, even after multiple adjustments.