Is this for a 1fz Fe?
Cooling issues with CSF 2517 - what temp does your rig's A/C shut off? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rbdave
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no this is for the 3FE. 1FZ-FE is almost identical except for the larger diameter return outlet.
3FE, that would explain the brackets at the bottom mine does not have. I look forward to reading about how well or not this radiator works for you.. I recently switched from CSF to TRAD on my 1993 but have not run it yet because of how slow I have been to build some new rear control arms which i began about the same time. My hopes are high.
I will have real time hard numbers to compare with my aftermarket temp. gauge i have installed recently. My gut feeling is that the CSF unit will work fine with a relatively stock rig. However, as with most 80s on here, with a lift, larger/ heavier tires, and added armors and loaded with overlanding gears, it is just simply not adequate for the added load and heat these engine have to compensate for. i have no problem with my CSF just cruising around town or mall crawling, the engine stays cool nontheless. I also have high hopes this will cure my hot engine issues, i have pretty much replaced every part of the cooling system up to date.
You experience with and opinionnof the CSF is pretty much exactly what mine is and with a completely different engine.
Good to know. I am also curious of how well your T-RAD radiator performs compared to your CSF. I just wished there were more options for custom alum. radiators for the 3-FE
you're not correct
i have CSF with LS 5.3 L engine swap 315 HP and my LC is pretty loaded and i do not have overheating problems at all mechanical fan a/c on no problems
exactly..you have an LS swap. with 2x more HP output. How is this an apple to apple comparison?
more power = to more heat two extra cylinders more metal to cool down ... engine bay totally packed less air flow v.s. LC engine
i will totally disagree with your above statement. =)
I'm curious as well. I eventually gave up on the idea of the csf because the reviews are literally 50/50. I went with this instead and it has been phenomenal so far.
Free Shipping. RADIATOR 1917
I think for $220 for a radiator, $70 for a water pump, $100 for new fan clutch and $10 for 20k clutch oil it makes sense to replace it all and be done. Throw in a thermostat too.
Free Shipping. RADIATOR 1917
I think for $220 for a radiator, $70 for a water pump, $100 for new fan clutch and $10 for 20k clutch oil it makes sense to replace it all and be done. Throw in a thermostat too.
You don’t want to mess with those eBay radiators anyway. I bought one and fitkent was off. They are inconsistent.
I suggest you leave the first line out of all future posts. This way you might be taken seriously.
Your engine is not working as close to its max potential as the stock 6 cylinders. You enjoy more cubic inches and better efficiency.
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May have something to do with it; Location: Milwaukee?
Spent the past weekend replacing the CSF with the Ron Davis unit, also replaced the WP while i was in there and where i spent most of my time removing and installing the new WP. I also bypassed the smog pump with a shorter belt. Only thing left is install fan shroud, battery box and will be ready to go. Will upload more pic later
I decided to go with an OEM radiator when I recently replaced the CSF 2517 in my 93. Creeping down the trail, and generally under light engine load, I realized basically no difference in water temps. BUT, the water temps were significantly lower climbing mountain roads while maintaining higher speeds where the transmission had to shift back and forth from third to second in order to maintain desired speed.
In the past, shifting down to second and bringing the tach up to the 3500-4000rpm range would actually cause water temp to increase, which I found strange. Now, with the TRAD unit, water temp would start to decrease with the higher rpm’s after down shift just like I would expect.
Granted, ambient temps were in the 50’s to low 60’s but I had to push it hard to see 191-192 on the Koso gauge where as, with the CSF 2517, water temps would surpass 200 easily.
I’m running a completely overhauled cooling system and a black hub fan clutch sporting factory timing and 15kcst silicone oil. The radiator was the only recent change.
In the past, shifting down to second and bringing the tach up to the 3500-4000rpm range would actually cause water temp to increase, which I found strange. Now, with the TRAD unit, water temp would start to decrease with the higher rpm’s after down shift just like I would expect.
Granted, ambient temps were in the 50’s to low 60’s but I had to push it hard to see 191-192 on the Koso gauge where as, with the CSF 2517, water temps would surpass 200 easily.
I’m running a completely overhauled cooling system and a black hub fan clutch sporting factory timing and 15kcst silicone oil. The radiator was the only recent change.
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I was on the same boat.
My temp will be in the 200s just maintaining 75 on the freeway w/ AC on, and once i hit a slight incline for any extended period of time where i needed to downshift @ 3500-4k rpm range, i see temp creeps to the 210-215 range according to my Koso gauge.
I hope with the alum. RD unit, my temp will be a solid 10-15 degree cooler.
I have also completely overhauled my cooling, new thermostat. 15k new Aisen fan clutch, new Aisen WP. all new hoses.
wil report some real time numbers to compare soon!
Spent the past weekend replacing the CSF with the Ron Davis unit, also replaced the WP while i was in there and where i spent most of my time removing and installing the new WP. I also bypassed the smog pump with a shorter belt. Only thing left is install fan shroud, battery box and will be ready to go. Will upload more pic later
Who makes the cool radiator hose clamps?
Dont forget to seal the ~1/2" gap between the top of the radiator to the saddle.
Just Mcmaster Carr specials =)
you meant the gap between the cross bar in front of the radiator to the ac condensor?
Here is a picture of it all button up and ready to go! I will report back on engine temp this weekend.
