Opinions on rust (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 24, 2015
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Location
Houston, TX
Hey all,

I need to make a decision pretty soon on a 2011 LC I've been looking at remotely. It's a 2011 with 114k in the rare amazon green. The initial pic from the dealer showed little to no undercarriage rust, but subsequent photos from when they had it on the lift showed a bit more. I don't think it's all that bad, mostly surface rust, but I want to know if you guys think it's too much to move forward with. For what it's worth, if I buy it, it'll be living in south TX.

Also, the KDSS valve has some rust on it, but it's operable currently. From all I've read, is it fair to say that some rust on the KDSS doesn't have a huge impact if I don't plan on a suspension upgrade?

Thanks for any input.

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Doesn't look that bad to me. Spray down with fluid film and move on. Where has the rig spent most of its life?
 
Doesn't look that bad to me. Spray down with fluid film and move on. Where has the rig spent most of its life?

It’s been in Maine most of its life. I’m hoping what rust is there can be dealt with as best as possible and that being in TX will keep progression slow.
 
I also don't think it's a deal killer. I'm wondering if there is a place near the dealer that specializes in oiling undercoating? Maybe you could have it done before being shipped?

Depending on where it is in Maine, I might be able to put eyes on it for you.
 
Here's what I did to my 08
2008 Land Cruiser surface rust, before/after

Most of the stuff that's rusted on that truck will be replaced when u upgrade suspension ,skids, and other armor.

I'd just try to use rustoleum on the axle and other areas that r starting to rust to prevent further rusting and touch things up throughout the life of the truck. Good luck with your decision.
 
What rust?

Thats nothing
 
Personally I'd pass and wait for something in your area South Tx or out West. Living in South Louisiana I see cruisers come up all the time in Tx its our preferred shopping area as well but I personally avoid anything out of the salt belt like the plague. I've seen and worked on some cruisers that came from the Northeast and its always rust problems when you try to work on anything underneath them. You can't get in all the cracks and crevices to clean it all and our high humidity tends to make the rust worse. If your getting a super deal you can't pass up I can understand taking a chance. Good luck either way :cheers:
 
I see your posting this one again For Sale - Looking at a 2011 Amazon Green LC...Rust update. I suppose for those living and buying in the rust belt, this is normal rust. Me, I'd run from this one without a doubt.

Buying from area with snow and salted roads is really not much of a rust issue. That if washed regular is no problem. Even if undercarriage not washed, it's just surface rust/staining for the most parts. But rigs from the rust belt (High Heat and Humidity) get rust in spots you can not see.

Look at bolts of shielding under engine. The LH side is removed when replacing oil filter, which is every 5 to 7k. Notice how new bolts mostly on LH, and probably not OEM. Look closer and you'll see missing bolts on both sides. Look even more and you'll see factory bolts are rusted. Sure some shops loose a bolt or two, but not this many. These/those bolts are breaking.

I'll bet those bolt were broken during removal for simple oil servicing. This happens for one reason, RUST, that has penetrated further that can be seen of surface. This rig is from the rust belt.

If you buy this to save on purchase price, you'll pay extra in time and materials most times something needs fixing. It will also have lower resale value. You'll have more issues like failure of hard lines like brakes & AC.

Personally I much rather spend more upfront outside of rust belt, buy clean, ship and rust prevent.
 
I'll note one more thing. Notice the shield under oil pan not the oil hatch but whole shield, doesn't show signs of being removed as other shielding does. This tells me propeller shafts have not been properly serviced, as it just to much work/time for simple lube job.
 
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I’d never buy a car from Maine. I grew up there and they salt their roads like crazy. My Dad still lives there and his Toyota is 5 years old and is starting to rust considerably.
 
I don’t think the rust is a showstopper. Make your decision based on other things and if you end up buying, invest in a really complete undercarriage cleaning and then 1) use Rustoleum Rust Reformer on what you can see and 2) use Fluid Film on everything else. The biggest problem will be the KDSS valves. But those can be rusted up on pretty much any 7 year old truck.
 
There are plenty of rust free LC and LX out there. You’ll save yourself a lot of future headaches by choosing a rust free truck. I found mine in NV after looking for months. The underside looks new. I’m glad I passed on a few of the midwestern cars that were brought into our local market.
 
Thanks for all the input guys (especially 2001LC's level of detail). I ended up pulling the trigger and I'm having it shipped to me. I feel like I got a great deal, especially with how hard it is to find the amazon green/tan LCs. Ended up paying $28.9k. As far as the rust goes, I came to the following conclusion...for better or worse!

It seems that there are two separate issues: the level of rust itself, and one's personal philosophy towards dealing with it. The rust itself doesn't seem so bad and I can address it so that it never becomes anything structural to worry about. For me, it really came down to the fact that I don't have plans to do suspension mods on the truck. It'll be more of a daily driver and for trips to my weekend cabin loaded up with 3 kids and a dog. If I do ever get a lift, I will almost certainly be paying for someone else's labor. For that purpose, I don't forsee infinite frustration breaking bolts under there. If I'm wrong...well then I may have some future headaches and I hope I got a big enough head start on the deal.

I do have a 2005 LX and a 2004 LC that are as clean as can be, and would be built up first, in that order due to the AHC. I bought the LX two years ago with 53k miles from a guy who used it as his "airport car" when being picked up from his Texas Hill Country home. The LC I bought 3 years ago with a ridiculous 34k miles from SoCal. The owner lived in Atlanta but was the CEO of a company headquartered in LA. It was his board meeting car...

Anyways, thanks again for the input!
 
FWIW I would've done the same. After 2.5 Chicago winters mine looks similar. Spraying the underside with fluid film each November will do a tremendous job keeping it from getting much rustier. I need to snap some photos but you can totally tell which bolts under my truck were missed.

I recommend trying to turn the KDSS valves once you get the truck. Most suspension work "requires" turning them (you don't necessarily need to but it makes the job a LOT harder if you don't). You don't need to open them "3 turns", just use a 4mm 5mm allen wrench and see if you can get it to turn at all. I slip a ~8" piece of brass pipe over my allen wrench to give me enough leverage to easily loosen it. If it does turn, tighten it back up and then slather the valves with marine grease - I coat mine once per year and they look almost new. If they don't turn don't freak out, but you should try to hit them with some PB blaster and a wire brush a few times over a few days until they do. Then tighten and coat with marine grease to protect them.
 
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@KLF Sorry you're correct, my bad, I was going from memory.
 
I have some rust on my undercarriage as well...medium level of rust. I want to have the Fluid Film applied. What kind of auto repair shops would apply this and what would be a fair rate for roughly the gallon that it needs?

Also, what is KDSS?
 

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