Links to the ones you bought?
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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Links to the ones you bought?
- Thread starter
- #122
@UCrazyKid thread is here Headlight Retrofit for 2008 - 2011 LX570
I couldn’t get the high beams to work but I do like them in low and fog.
I couldn’t get the high beams to work but I do like them in low and fog.
mcgaskins
SILVER Star
Are you just going to terminate the exhaust there? I’d weld or get a shop to weld an extension or you’ll be dealing with fumes going into the truck at low speeds.
- Thread starter
- #124
I’m it sure yet. The air exchanges in the rear are far back on the rear quarter panel (under the metal portion of my rear bumper).
If there are fumes I’ll add a pipe. If not I’ll just grind that a bit rounder.
A side exhaust would actually be closer to the air exchange, and a rear exit
pipe isn’t great for clearance, particularly at the rear frame. Maybe a sport / flat exhaust would be best.
If there are fumes I’ll add a pipe. If not I’ll just grind that a bit rounder.
A side exhaust would actually be closer to the air exchange, and a rear exit
pipe isn’t great for clearance, particularly at the rear frame. Maybe a sport / flat exhaust would be best.
mcgaskins
SILVER Star
I would at minimum put a downward facing tip on it because on the trail especially you will definitely get carbon monoxide buildup that will leech into the cabin. Been there, done that with a Jeep back in the day.
How fresh is your battery? I replaced the 5 year old original Panasonic with the Batteries Plus Duracell Deka last year for $110 (1/3 the price of the X2Power/Northstar AGM, which I also strongly considered) and it's reading 14.0V.
- Thread starter
- #127
It’s a July build date. Read 12.85 today, I don’t drive a whole lot, so it may take a while to recharge.
- Thread starter
- #128
Step 1 install the compressor
- Thread starter
- #129
Step 2 test home made rivnut tool.
Check.
That’s a 10.9 m6 bolt, an m8 nut, two star washers, and two regular washers.
Check.
That’s a 10.9 m6 bolt, an m8 nut, two star washers, and two regular washers.
- Thread starter
- #130
Step 3 compressed air tubing and tank mock up. Wai for fancy 1/4 npt to 6an connectors from China, then lay it out for verification.
And discover I got 3/8 quick disconnects. Who’s in charge of procurement?!
And discover I got 3/8 quick disconnects. Who’s in charge of procurement?!
- Thread starter
- #131
Uh oh. Drove a lot over the weekend, like 8 hours. Battery down to 12.45. Looks like time to start saving for an alternator. It shows at 14v when on, but clearly not getting that to the battery.
I'll double check the clamps and grounds, but I think they're fine, I did all that when putting in the new battery a few weeks ago.
I'll double check the clamps and grounds, but I think they're fine, I did all that when putting in the new battery a few weeks ago.
- Thread starter
- #132
So weird. I started up, cold charge got to about 14.5, which is what I had measured before. I drove 10 min. Battery after 10 min measured 12.8 v.
I'm beginning to wonder about if this yellowtop might have an issue.
I'm beginning to wonder about if this yellowtop might have an issue.
- Thread starter
- #133
Waited 90 min drove another 10 min battery down to 12.71
Here’s the alternator reading at a stop light above 14v
Here’s the alternator reading at a stop light above 14v
Where do you plan to place the air tank and what size is it? I bought all the supplies over a year ago. I had planned to place a 2 gallon tank near the rear spare. I have Airbags for towing and have the fill tubes coming into the rear hatch (jack and first aid kit area). I was going to place the a second fill hose off of the tank in the same location. I started working on making a bracket, but abandoned the idea with plans of one day getting the 12.5g Long Range Automotive Extended Range Fuel Tank. thanks.
- Thread starter
- #135
Driver side above the deleted resonator. I got a 1.5 gallon tank, and it fits above the spare carriage. For a bracket I’m rivnutting into the frame. Service air is behind the driver tire on a bumper bracket.
I’m 80% committed to the bumper mounted spare, but pretending that I might one day want a second spare, or maybe will pull the swing arm in winter. So working around the spare carriage for now.
A second tank isn’t in the current plan here.
I’m 80% committed to the bumper mounted spare, but pretending that I might one day want a second spare, or maybe will pull the swing arm in winter. So working around the spare carriage for now.
A second tank isn’t in the current plan here.
- Thread starter
- #136
Step 4 i needed the tiniest bit more vertical for the tank, so I cut the spare tire carrier. After fitting up looks like I only needed the front half of the forward rib for space. It’s a bit flexy now, but I can stiffen with a square tube if I need to later. Spare tire carrier is really heavy gauge steel.
- Thread starter
- #137
Step 5 finished up the electrical. In retrospect I think the bus bars were not necessary. For sure I could have gone with a fuse panel that didn’t have negative and used the negative bus bar. But I had the stuff so I used it.
This little plastic box was $7. It fits on top of the fuse box. Not waterproof after my slicing and dicing, but splash resistant at least.
This little plastic box was $7. It fits on top of the fuse box. Not waterproof after my slicing and dicing, but splash resistant at least.
- Thread starter
- #138
On the battery front, I bought an Optima 400. Fancy!
It started at 50% charged (12.6 v) and reported 100% charged after 12 hours or so (overnight). I unhooked it and figured I was fully charged.
Two days later (no driving, starting, or use), battery was at 12.6v. The charger reported 75%, and I ran it for 36 hours. It was in 'maintenance' mode the last 24 hours. Now battery is all the way up to 13.1 volts.
I'll watch to see if I have a parasitic drain and it goes back down quickly. Or maybe there is a bad cell, though I suspect the charger would have reported that.
It started at 50% charged (12.6 v) and reported 100% charged after 12 hours or so (overnight). I unhooked it and figured I was fully charged.
Two days later (no driving, starting, or use), battery was at 12.6v. The charger reported 75%, and I ran it for 36 hours. It was in 'maintenance' mode the last 24 hours. Now battery is all the way up to 13.1 volts.
I'll watch to see if I have a parasitic drain and it goes back down quickly. Or maybe there is a bad cell, though I suspect the charger would have reported that.
- Thread starter
- #139
I upgraded the attachment point on the RLC bumper fill ins at the wheel well. Version 1 was very small screws using tapped aluminum. It worked as good as it sounds, which means 80% of them vibrated out in gravel road use.
Version 2 uses rivnuts and M4 bolts. It should do much better.
Looks about the same, hopefully functions much better.
Version 2 uses rivnuts and M4 bolts. It should do much better.
Looks about the same, hopefully functions much better.
- Thread starter
- #140
Step 6 - complete electronics install for ARB twin (and future stuff)
Fits and works perfect. Have a breaker (in the box), bluetooth relay switch (in the box), override toggle (on the box), and the cosmetic covers fit on too.
Wire tension holds it in place just fine from the 1/0 to the battery, and the cover will also hold it in place.
On to fabbing some mounts for the air tank.
Fits and works perfect. Have a breaker (in the box), bluetooth relay switch (in the box), override toggle (on the box), and the cosmetic covers fit on too.
Wire tension holds it in place just fine from the 1/0 to the battery, and the cover will also hold it in place.
On to fabbing some mounts for the air tank.
