Electrical help needed please-any 'gurus' out there? 24 won't activate starter (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 8, 2010
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Location
Oregon
Rig: Canadian 24v 1986 HJ60 2H--in western US, so no local mechanics that would know how to work on it....I've checked around and those present have less experience than i do on this type of rig. Ran great and always started in an instant before the transfer was made.

Problem: won't start after transferring engine/electrical system/harness to new body/frame. I activate the key to run position and normal glow and EDIC noises, then to start position and nothing happens--no starter action.

What I've done: checked with hot wire from battery to starter solenoid it it turns over great (key was in off position so it would not start). I followed the book testing for the Starter Relay test and it seemed to pass (i'm a novice so have doubts about my skill in doing that test.. with OHM meter).
Had my wife turn the key to start position while I had volt meter on the Starter Relay input plug (smaller gauge wire to relay; white with black and black wire with red line) and there was no voltage shown coming through to 'activate' the relay (I assume thats what that wire plug is for).
I've replaced the ignition relay just in case (had a spare), checked and replaced the starter fuse (was fine but did it just to be sure), changed out the ignition harness from the backside of the ignition switch (just in case--had a spare) and none of these changes and trying to start 'after each change' showed any difference in how the electrical system sounded (relays clicking to fuel system/glow system) nor did it result in a starter activation. Also checked connections, unplugged/plugged back in just to be sure--looked at wires to and from related systems....

I've really been trying so many things for a few weeks now so as to put forth all possible effort before asking for help.

The manual information doesn't seem to connect (for me to understand at least) how to test the under-dash system from the key through the relay block located above the drivers left foot, behind the fuse block.

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!...
 
All Fusible links good?
Looking at the wiring diagram I see a neutral start switch - I don't have one in my manual HJ, maybe the Auto tranny has it?
 
Edic noises: = is moves the arm forward to over fuel?
I would get a manual start switch to the start relay, no problem I can think of and at least drive it.
Does edic switch off? =move arm to cabin and shut off? (or fuel/air starve it)
You seem pretty good in the process, a payed guy can not do more.

Does the wire loom comes out of the same model and year because many wires are not used (airco, windows, a lot of stuff)

Good luck it seems you are almost there but from a forum perspective not easy o pinpoint the problem.

I think you want to know which wire from the key gets a starter signal (=24v) and delivers it to the start relay, maybe trough the edic box?

I had this plug near the engine edic not making a good connection and it would not start:

Pictures are from here, I have to give credit to free hosting 3 Gb of pictures : www.tapatalk.com/groups/hj60/

24V glow,alternator,dome,buzzer,battery, electrics


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Toyota HJ60 wire harness connector plug RELEASE:

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My HJ did not glow and it was this plug next to the glowrail (busbar) that needed some wd40 spray AND push the small cable inwards! if you turn on the contact and wiggle this plug I hope it suddenly starts klicking and glowing!
Also the wire to the water / coolant temperature sensor on top of the thermostat housing is very important!
also note the unused connectors in the bottom:
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Freewheel and HJ60; I'm sorry for the delayed reply--had some home repairs that needed immediate attention (no one on MUD ever has that happen do they?).

Thank you for your prompt and thoughtful/detailed replies--exactly what I needed to get past my brain barriers/frustration factor. Very good ideas!

Here's my update so far:
--have manual 5-speed so no safety switch--I had checked for that before and did again just to make sure.
--the wiring harness is the exact same one the HJ60 had in the other frame/body before switching. Also, I went through the harness and inspected/cleaned and re-wrapped most of it before installation (not a fun process getting it out and back in). I did see the extra plugs you noted and have not tried those for anything. One thing I've learned over the years is that things fit 'naturally back together' when this old due to angles and tension--also, Toyota is great in that it seems almost all the plugs don't have similar fittings nearby and also often color coded to match.
--Fusible links: didn't know this had them and didn't understand them that well so looked around and found some at the battery--disconnected that big collection of wires at the 24V main feed post and as it came loose 2 popped out of the cluster from a connector; I was very glad your idea led to this--trimmed, cleaned, added a new ring connector to each wire with heat shrink so as not to have so many wires in one connector--put them all back together with dielectric silicone for great connections at the rings and battery post connector; did the key test really hoping--and nothing! Same general relay noises from EDIC/Glow system.
-Found a couple of pages in the factory manual in the ST (start) section I noticed before, one was a diagram so have been tracing that back through one step at a time with the probes and OHM/volt meter.
-Just to be sure did many wires between the battery post connector and the start system; tested fusible link wires, connectors on the far end, start relay connectors battery supply side and found voltage in all places it was supposed to be at at 24V+.
-Checked the top of engine temp sensor and it met OHM standards--also, looked in ST section of manual and the diagram didn't show it affecting the start cycle (wish I had found that page earlier--saved me weeks figuring things out), BUT that does feed into the GLOW cold start timing system--FYI for future knowledge.
--Did a bypass with hot clips and ground wire from battery to input side of starter relay on fender well--THE ENGINE CRANKED OVER!!! WHAT A GREAT SOUND!
--Did voltage test again in the input plug side of the starter relay with key in start position and no voltage feed.

So, all your help has helped me to find other wiring things to fix before they became an issue--narrowed down what/where to look and increased my understanding greatly!! I'm starting to feel like 'maybe there is hope'--like you said, likely 'almost there'.

So, if you have any other ideas, would really be appreciated.

Looks like next is testing the wires from the starter relay input plug back through the loom to the key system.

This is the last key issue before I can move forward with finalizing this restoration/build.......

Thank you again for the help and encouragement!
LCDiesel60,
USA-Oregon.
 
Good luck with it. I've been following, though I don't have any insights to offer. I would be keen to see some pics of your truck - I'm in the middle of the same swap at the moment...
 
Good luck with it. I've been following, though I don't have any insights to offer. I would be keen to see some pics of your truck - I'm in the middle of the same swap at the moment...
Thanks GerorgeBJ60
Hope yours goes well-I have tons of photos and plan to do a build thread when done. I’m not very good at working/posting—kind of Type A so tend to stay with it to see progress or get through problems.
It sat for years when kids cars needs lots of help, as well as working a lot and fixing the house-finally doing serious time on it and in the home stretch after this issue is solved-next will be paint then install door systems, interior and finally armor so this can be the daily driver.
I’m guessing about 4 months I’ll be able to start posting.
Best wishes on your rig!
 
Its fixed!! here is a photo of the jumper wire we connected on the keyed 'start wire' in a loom and into the engine bay and onto the connector for the 'start relay' power supply. Tried so many things for weeks--all relays tested good and nothing found so assume bad wire/connection somewhere. Works just like stock from key start position--while at it installed jumper wire from 'accessory' keyed wire to also activate the solenoid relay supplying power to the inverters (24v to 12v) for my accessory systems.
When it started for the first time--a bit rough getting the fuel empty of air and then it 'cleared its throat' without me having to hand bleed the injectors and ran so solid and smooth!!--and with the freshly rebuilt injectors-so much cleaner too!

Thanks everyone for all your help!
Sorry for no video on the engine start--file to large for my phone down-load so i need to 'learn some tech' to get it into an accessible file.

take care,
LCDiesel60
Oregon
 

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  • Photo of jumper wire on keyed ignition to engine bay start relay 11 2018.pdf
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Nice, great! fixed the picture.
Are the injectors hard to replace? I want to remove them for service at Bosch but the special tools in the manual make me delay the job.
Not many post about replacing them, maybe it is so easy I overthink it?


hj60 starter wires.jpg
 

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