PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJBen
- Start date
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- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
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- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
You also have a 4-pinion LSD rear diff with a 4.11 ratio.
Cheers
Cheers
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
It had one at some point
It's had ARB lockers for quite awhile now I believe judging by the age of the ARB compressor.I also found this information out on mud about the placard codes:
From ones I have seen the FQ11 is should be an LX model from the factory. Many of the Land Cruisers I have seen with this trim code have had deluxe options although this appears to vary somewhat from country to country. Examples might be suspensions seats, power chrome mirrors, chrome steps, FRP Tops, Factory Toyota snorkels or Factory Toyota winches.
This cruiser has an OEM snorkel (topper replaced), manual windows and locks, 4.11 LSD (factory), "turbo" seats, carpet, rear roll bar/seat belts, Chrome 16" wheels. It's too bad I don't have the build sheet or window sticker, that would be cool to see what the specs and price was in 1991.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
'91, or '88?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What got you tearing into the engine?
Was she running poorly?
Was she running poorly?
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #49
Previous owner blew a hose, it overheated and blew the headgasket. Also bent a pushrod and scored the cylinder liner.
He bought a full rebuild kit, new pistons, liners and had the head rebuilt.
Upon putting new liners in the one cracked because there was a ridge in the bore they didn’t see. After that he kind of lost interest and I purchased as a project to finish.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Ah, I missed the project status!
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #53
More parts, more cleaning. Just going through every metal, hard part that can be cleaned and cleaning it.
Is there any cleaning solution that can clean the Cad plated parts without removing the yellow?
Rebuilt head:
Back seat
16" OEM chrome rims. I was glad this had OEM 70's rims. I've always liked those, and the ones that were on the FJ40's in 80s.
Radiator, thats going to need to be fixed or replaced. My guess is that this is the actual cause for hose failure and overheating/head gasket.
What is more 80's than YO.
Is there any cleaning solution that can clean the Cad plated parts without removing the yellow?
Rebuilt head:
Back seat
16" OEM chrome rims. I was glad this had OEM 70's rims. I've always liked those, and the ones that were on the FJ40's in 80s.
Radiator, thats going to need to be fixed or replaced. My guess is that this is the actual cause for hose failure and overheating/head gasket.
What is more 80's than YO.
confused, what sleeve are you pulling?
The 13B-T engine has cylinder sleeves.
Ah... missed the word cylinder somehow, or didn’t read all the previous posts thoroughly
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
Productive weekend.
Closer.
Out. Still nice and blue back there.
What better way to move an old Japanese diesel than with another old Japanese diesel.
Out for a power wash of the engine bay.
Finally put some doors back on to keep some heat in there once winter hits.
Lessons learned:
#1 Make sure you get ALL the bell housing bolts out before trying to separate the engine from tranny
#2 Don't forget to use those nitrile gloves you bought...diesel oil/grease is really nasty and stays a long time.
#3 Remove the crank bolt when the engine is still attached to the tranny.
#4 You will ALWAYS deal with "while you're in there" and 3 years, $30K dollars later you will sell it for $13k as a project that just needs a few loose ends tied up.
Closer.
Out. Still nice and blue back there.
What better way to move an old Japanese diesel than with another old Japanese diesel.
Out for a power wash of the engine bay.
Finally put some doors back on to keep some heat in there once winter hits.
Lessons learned:
#1 Make sure you get ALL the bell housing bolts out before trying to separate the engine from tranny
#2 Don't forget to use those nitrile gloves you bought...diesel oil/grease is really nasty and stays a long time.
#3 Remove the crank bolt when the engine is still attached to the tranny.
#4 You will ALWAYS deal with "while you're in there" and 3 years, $30K dollars later you will sell it for $13k as a project that just needs a few loose ends tied up.
#4 You will ALWAYS deal with "while you're in there" and 3 years, $30K dollars later you will sell it for $13k as a project that just needs a few loose ends tied up.
That's signature material right there ....
