Grinding from passenger rear. (1 Viewer)

[FlightMedic178]

Hey all!
Had an awesome time out yesterday wheeling and swimming with the girlfriend. For about an hour I had the rear end about 1/2 way up the wheel under water. See pic:

No issues immediately after but when getting closer to home (about 60 miles) I started having grinding coming from the rear passenger wheel. Last tire rotation was about 2k miles ago and the pads looked ok from what I could tell. They have been slightly squeaking for a bit but I didn’t think it would progress that quickly... (from minor squeak to grinding). I won’t have the opportunity to get the wheel off for about a week to actually take a look. Any thoughts? Could it be something to do with the water or probably just brakes going out. And if it’s brakes.... anyone have experience with this set?

Thanks for any advice!
Nate

 

[Spike555]

Well if you went from water to dirt without it drying off first then you have dirt in the parking brake drum.
Obviously the dust/dirt will stick to the wet parts of the truck.

 

[bwell]

I get rocks lodged in between rear disk and disk shield regularly on my 100. Annoying, but usually what it is for me.

 

[BnvS]

I had a squeaky rear passenger tire that I thought was barrings. I took it to my shop to look at, turns out I only needed break pad replacements as it was coming close to replacing them. So get those breaks checked out. Probably just needs to be replaced.

 

[slacker24-7]

Look through the wheel openings is the rotor still smooth or does it have gouge marks from the pads being gone ? Also could be a rock stuck but the squeeking is normally the pad wear indicator

 

[Bomar]

Do your self a favor and stick with OEM pads and rotors

 

[Pyrenees]

Do your self a favor and stick with OEM pads and rotors

Less inclined to warp or something? Just curious since some cars I've had this doesn't matter at all, and others are really particular about it. I think I'm going to upgrade to a good aftermarket rotor on our Honda, I'm not impressed with the stock ones at all (turned at 21k, some high speed minor braking vibration already at 36k).

 

[Spike555]

Less inclined to warp or something? Just curious since some cars I've had this doesn't matter at all, and others are really particular about it. I think I'm going to upgrade to a good aftermarket rotor on our Honda, I'm not impressed with the stock ones at all (turned at 21k, some high speed minor braking vibration already at 36k).

Round chunks of steel are round chunks of steel.

If they are to thin they will overheat and warp, that's what causes the warping, the rotors being overheated. Either form being braked to hard or being to thin and can't dissipate the heat.

Some rotors are just spec to thin and no matter what brand they will warp, in that case order a cytogeneticly treated set. They are super hard and last forever.