You bet! Be sure to update us in your thread to what your results are. That not only helps us but also people looking and searching in the future for clues to what their issues are. Good luck and I hope things work out
Name this (broken) part! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zalie
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm another one that cant see a crack in those pics.
The crack and the leaking coolant may be completely unrelated. I also think top it up with tap water, bring it up to temp, and try and find the source of the coolant leak. After you find and fix the leak, flush and refill with proper coolant
Fluid leaks can be a pain to locate. Sometimes its obvious, but often where you see it dripping may not be where it is coming from.
The crack and the leaking coolant may be completely unrelated. I also think top it up with tap water, bring it up to temp, and try and find the source of the coolant leak. After you find and fix the leak, flush and refill with proper coolant
Fluid leaks can be a pain to locate. Sometimes its obvious, but often where you see it dripping may not be where it is coming from.
inkpot
SILVER Star
After filling up the radiator, be sure to replace the cap tightly. That way it will pressurize when it gets hot and it should start leaking again.
If it sounds OK when it is running, it will be OK to drive it home. Even if it is leaking, just carry a bunch of water and refill periodically, say every 1/2 hour or when your temp gauge starts to move.
Check oil and trans fluid at the same time and have extra on hand.
As long as it doesn't get too hot, it should be OK.
Check oil and trans fluid at the same time and have extra on hand.
As long as it doesn't get too hot, it should be OK.
- Thread starter
- #26
Just a quick update: I sent the pictures down to Land Cruiser Specialists in Austin. They have done great work on the truck in the past. They said that was an engine mount and the gold bold directly 12:00 of that was the drain plug. They said more than likely behind that cracked piece was a cracked engine block. I will running the truck again this weekend to see if I can get a video of where exactly the fluid is coming out and make sure the drain bolt is good and tight. More than likely will need a new engine sadly. I will update again after I run it and find the exact place of the fluid leak. I really appreciate all the help and suggestions-
Thanks for the update! That's an uncommon occurance - cracked block at the engine mount. Some severe stress involved there. Video would be interesting!
GO TO AUTO ZONE, BORROW BLOCK TESTER, BUY BLOCK TEST FLUID LIKE 8 BUCKS.
RUN TRUCK FULL OF WATER, WARM UP USE TO DETERMINE IF HEAD GASKET IS s***. IF NOT APPLY 3M SUPER WEATHERSTRIPPING ADHESIVE INTO HOLE AND REINSERTBOLT TIGHTEN TO LIKE 40 LBS ISH IF THATS GOOD MOVE ON
CHECK s***TY COOLANT NIPPLE HOSE ON REAR DRIVER CYL HEAD UNDER NEAR REAR INTAKE CORNER. USE COOLANT TESTER RENTAL IF HUNTING LEAK OR RENT THAT SEAL BOLT,PRESSURIOZE SYSTEM TO 14LBS AND SEE IF IT HOLDS FOR 5+ MIN.
ED
RUN TRUCK FULL OF WATER, WARM UP USE TO DETERMINE IF HEAD GASKET IS s***. IF NOT APPLY 3M SUPER WEATHERSTRIPPING ADHESIVE INTO HOLE AND REINSERTBOLT TIGHTEN TO LIKE 40 LBS ISH IF THATS GOOD MOVE ON
CHECK s***TY COOLANT NIPPLE HOSE ON REAR DRIVER CYL HEAD UNDER NEAR REAR INTAKE CORNER. USE COOLANT TESTER RENTAL IF HUNTING LEAK OR RENT THAT SEAL BOLT,PRESSURIOZE SYSTEM TO 14LBS AND SEE IF IT HOLDS FOR 5+ MIN.
ED
