New owner, 1996 fj80 rebuild log/questions. (1 Viewer)

[whitrzac]

Picked up a fj80 last night from the original owners kids who left it neglected in their driveway for way too long.

There's almost no rust under it, witch is pretty amazing considering it has 185k and has been in WI all it's life. The hatch corners are just starting to show rust and one of the wheel wells has some bubbleing.

Needs some serious TLC to start.


The CDL appears to be locked and binding up, the wheels hop at low speeds and turning. I've cycled the 4h/4l without any change and it's still bound up after the 120mile drive home last night.
the ABS, airbage and CEL is on. CEL is for knock sensor 2 that comes back the moment its cleared.

 

[jfz80]

Welcome to the MUD and sounds like a nice score... but these folks love pictures
what year? fj or fzj will make a difference in diagnosis.

Id not drive it much in that condition esp on pavement. In short term if indeed its locked you could pull the front drive shaft to run around in to not risk unnecessary wear. The ABS light will be on if the center diff is locked as well so there may not be a fault with that system just yet.

FIrst things first.... It doesnt have a ctr diff lock button on the dash does it? and being from the original owner im guessing stock stock so unlikely but some folks use a hazard or other switch for the CDL if you happen to see two. The CDL switch pigtail is beihind the dash in the upper left hand corner of top row of buttons in stock fashion. Not all have the button but you can add it if someone hasnt already. again year may make a difference.

Im almost certain the High Low switch and the CTR diff lock on the tcase are the same part. you could try swapping them first to see if makes a difference.

Check out the classifieds and vendors sections here for new or used knock sensor after checking the wiring connection that often gets broken when working in that area.

Enjoy

 

[whitrzac]

1996 fzj80

It's not going anywhere for a couple weeks at least right now.

No ctr diff lock switch that I've found so far.

 

[whitrzac]

 

[surfpig]

Nice!

That exhaust looks interesting...

 

[whitrzac]

Nice!

That exhaust looks interesting...

Meth, not even once.

 

[BILT4ME]

Welcome!

Show us a pic of the left side of the dash, to the left of the steering wheel. Interested to see if it has locking differentials.

Sometimes the CDL may stay locked in if it has sat for a long time and has not been actuated a lot.

Looks like it's has some neglect, but for WI, it's not as rusty as I would have expected.

If you're looking at keeping fender flares, replacements for yours need to be from a 95, 96, or 97 Land Cruiser only.

Its got 185K, which isn;t bad, but having been sitting a long time, the knock sensor code being on concerns me about possible HG issues being ready to show up.

Having driven it 120 miles right out of the gate is a good thing, however, it hasn't been heated up in a long time, and bad stuff usually rears its ugly head after sitting for years, then firing it up and getting it hot (not overheated)

Hopefully, the engine temp stayed in the right place.

Read through the threads here, figure out what YOUR plan is for the truck.

I hope you got a good deal on it, as it's gonna need some pocketbook love......

Used:
@slow95z @arcteryx

New:
Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online
Partsouq

These tend to spit out aftermarket parts, so try to do Toyota as much as you can. It's not just fan-boyism. Mine doesn;t like aftermarket and I can get those CHEAP.

Good Luck!

 

[whitrzac]

PO said they did a HG, headwork, new injectors, etc all in the past 1200 miles.

Radiator was low and had brown coolant in it. I'm not sure if someone dumped block seal, mixed coolant, or WTF was going on.

After being filled it held a solid ~185-190 all the way home.

No factory diff lock.
Initial search for replacement fenders was expensive. I may just go aftermarket.

 

[slow95z]

I have factory fenders and I am surebuts cheaper than what you have been quote only. Not sure if I have a complete set left or not but I have some.

 

[BILT4ME]

Do a flush on that coolant ASAP. It should NOT be brown. Brown indicates a mix of red and green and it gunks up and plugs everything.

Do a flush with garden hose first in through hoses to get the big stuff out, (remove the thermostat), then fill with distilled and drive it for a day, drain and refill. Do that until the water is relatively clean. Then drain and refill with 50/50 green coolant.

This could prevent further HG issues.

If they TRULY rebuilt the head 1200 miles ago, they MAY have jacked the wiring on a knock sensor.

Does the head LOOK like it's been pulled, cleaned and replaced? Do you know WHO did the work?

 

[whitrzac]

I haven't had time to really dig into it yet. I made sure that it wasn't a rusty POS and handed him the $$$. Stopped at walmart to make sure it had oil and coolant, crimped the blown brakeline and started the drive home.

I'm going to be spending the weekend going through it.

 

[4xFletch]

Awesome find. Grey is my favorite and hard to find. Enjoy the process of bringing her back to life. There is an unexplainable pride when you get it all sorted and know that you can drive it across the country with no issues.

Keep the progress updates going.

 

[whitrzac]

Need to figure out the CDL situation first. That's something that can get really expensive really quickly.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
The CDL appears to be locked and binding up, the wheels hop at low speeds and turning. I've cycled the 4h/4l without any change and it's still bound up after the 120mile drive home last night.
...

My guess is the VC is dead, bound up, this will act just like the CDL is locked. First test, cycle the CDL (shift the transfer) does the CDL actuator run? Should briefly hear the motor on the transfer run and the relay click in the passenger kick panel, each time it's cycled. If the VC is dead, we remove and toss it in the recycle bin.

 

[baldilocks]

The brown in your coolant could be rust due to lack of cooling system maintenance. The coolant can go acidic if it has been in the engine too long and cause the engine block to rust.

 

[whitrzac]

Dug around a bit.
Rear knock sensor was broken off, when I pieced it back together the code stayed cleared. Looks to be a PIA to replace...

Head has definitely been off the engine. I found a random loose screw/2 and some missing brackets. Injectors were replaced with 3d party somethings and have a non-correct adapter harness on them.

Front CDL sensor was unplugged. cleaned it up, plugged it back in, now I have a CDL light in addition to the ABS, brake and airbag lights....


Is the factor service manual avalilabl anywhere?

 

[BILT4ME]

Dug around a bit.
Rear knock sensor was broken off, when I pieced it back together the code stayed cleared. Looks to be a PIA to replace...

Head has definitely been off the engine. I found a random loose screw/2 and some missing brackets. Injectors were replaced with 3d party somethings and have a non-correct adapter harness on them.

Front CDL sensor was unplugged. cleaned it up, plugged it back in, now I have a CDL light in addition to the ABS, brake and airbag lights....


Is the factor service manual avalilabl anywhere?

Do a search for "hell of a price" and you'll find the link. Someone else will probably post it here if you're patient.

 

[whitrzac]

Found them, thanks

 

[whitrzac]

Proggress. CDL motor runs with using a 9v. It locks and unlocks properly.

With the diff unlocked with the 9v, CDL light clears. ABS and Brake lights stay(probably other issues too) The CDL is unlocked and doesnt bind.

The CDL will lock when moved into 4l, I can hear the relay click and the diff locks. When I move the stick back to 4h, no relay clicking to move the motor back...

 

[whitrzac]

I'm about 2/3 done ripping wiring out of the car...