Fusible link question (1 Viewer)

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May 3, 2016
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odessa, tx
This week in Big Bend I noticed that the grey wire on my fusible link that goes to the positive terminal in the battery was split. However the vehicle ran perfectly with no issues. I am heading to red River nm this weekend but now I am hesitant about taking the 80 until I replace it. It is running fine now but do I risk being left stranded? I have ordered 2 from wits end but I won't have them until next week. Or do i take the FJ cruiser instead?
 
A photo would b very helpful.
 
What baldilocks said.
 
In my experience stealerships get parts quickly. Just ask when they'd have it?
 
The important part of the fusible link is the wire core (for electrical purposes). The insulation is there to protect things around the links when/if the it burns out (the wire core). The insulation is a high temperature silicone material that would contain the melting copper of the link(s) in a burn out event.

Given that the fusible links does not run near any other wires that could have their insulation melted/shorted against I'd say you are quite safe to run with the links you have until the new ones arrive. Or just spend the not big $ to get them at a dealership as mentioned above - assuming the one near you hasn't added an additional rip-off factor.

cheers,
george.
 
Let me rephrase what I stated because I wasn't very clear what I meant by split . It is actually split in two yet I have noticed nothing different in how it runs . I will definitely stop by the dealership today .
 
It is actually split in two yet I have noticed nothing different in how it runs
If it still runs without that fusible link connected, then somewhere, somehow, it's already been bypassed.
Getting a new link set wouldn't change anything. I'd want to track down where the circuit has been re-routed before replacing the links.
 
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If it still runs without that fusible link connected, then somewhere, somehow, it's already been bypassed.
Getting a new link set wouldn't change anything. I'd want to track down where the circuit has been re-routed before replacing the links.
That's what I was thinking. I should have noticed something .
 
If it still runs without that fusible link connected, then somewhere, somehow, it's already been bypassed.
Getting a new link set wouldn't change anything. I'd want to track down where the circuit has been re-routed before replacing the links.

Agree, if we are talking about the gray plug one, it powers the part of the ign switch, stuff like the ign coil, injectors, etc. If it runs with it broken, the wiring has been hacked.

So is the fuse blown or is it broken/cut? Is this new or has it been that way for a while?
 
It was cut in half yet it still ran fine. I will look at it closer tonight and stop by the dealership on the way home. It has probably been bypassed. Now that I think about it I had to remove the alarm one day because it left me stranded. After removing it the fuse for the ECU had know power and the engine still would not turn over. As a quick fix a used a jumper wire to provide power from the rear heater fuse to the ECU fuse to get me home. That is obviously why it is still running because I am still providing power to the ignition and ecu. I will fix the fusible link and figure out what the PO did when installing the alarm that is preventing power from reaching the ignition ecu circuit.
 
The best PO is either

a) a top notch mechanic with excellent electrical knowledge

or

b) a complete git that NEVER EVER opens the hood or touches anything (beyond just driving the vehicle) and refers everything to a)

I consider myself fortunate (though not by accident) and purchased our 80 new - so I know exactly who to blame for anything substandard :)

Good luck. And yes, you definitely need to get the fusible link 'back in circuit'.

cheers,
george.
 
It was cut in half yet it still ran fine. ...

If it was cut, was likely for a reason. Without tracing that circuit, seeing what type of hack is going on, it's hard to say, but putting it back without the knowledge of what is going on, may not be the best idea?
 
The best PO is either

a) a top notch mechanic with excellent electrical knowledge

or

b) a complete git that NEVER EVER opens the hood or touches anything (beyond just driving the vehicle) and refers everything to a)

I consider myself fortunate (though not by accident) and purchased our 80 new - so I know exactly who to blame for anything substandard :)

Good luck. And yes, you definitely need to get the fusible link 'back in circuit'.

cheers,
george.
Luckily the PO on mine was a Toyota mechanic that worked ara dealership and my 80 came with a ton of records on Toyota owners .com. Sadly I now realize that the fusible link fried a few months back and I thought it was the alarm not allowing the vehicle to start .After pulling it out it still wouldn't start so I ran a jumper wire from the rear heater circuit to the ECU ignition circuit to get me home. And now 3 months later I am noticing the fried fusible link which was probably the culprit to begin with. I will replace the fusible link and remove that jumper wire and I bet all will be good again.
 
Luckily the PO on mine was a Toyota mechanic that worked ara dealership and my 80 came with a ton of records on Toyota owners .com. Sadly I now realize that the fusible link fried a few months back and I thought it was the alarm not allowing the vehicle to start .After pulling it out it still wouldn't start so I ran a jumper wire from the rear heater circuit to the ECU ignition circuit to get me home. And now 3 months later I am noticing the fried fusible link which was probably the culprit to begin with. I will replace the fusible link and remove that jumper wire and I bet all will be good again.

Ahh... So you are the c) candidate :)

At least you remembered your hack and are planning to fix it right. Hopefully the cause of the original fusible link failure no longer exists (unless it just died of old age / mechanical failure etc).

cheers,
george.
 
Ahh... So you are the c) candidate :)

At least you remembered your hack and are planning to fix it right. Hopefully the cause of the original fusible link failure no longer exists (unless it just died of old age / mechanical failure etc).

cheers,
george.
It looks original so I'm praying it was old age.
 
It looks original so I'm praying it was old age.

replacing them as a pm is a good idea when you buy the truck, I had one that was completely corroded on the inside but looked fine on the outside. cut back the insulation and and see what the wire looks like, if it did its job and blew itll be a little crispy on the inside of the wire insulation
 
Just an aside to the PO, if by chance your 80 is a diesel (nothing in sig), then the broken wire could be the feed to the glow plugs, as a direct injected engine you will not notice anything amiss, unless cold starting in Syberia. :D

You can also fit a fuse box and get rid of the fusible links altogether.

Regards

Dave
 

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