Removing locking wheel lug without key.. (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Thanks it worked;

Pick up a seal along with a 13/16" extractor set, without sizing first. Found the 13/16" be to large, so used an old 3/4 socket.

Any ideas for getting wheel off hub?
As you can see I've heated along with penetrating oil everywhere. Been beating on tire and a few trys with a pry bar.

 

[Bomar]

Sit on the floor and kick the wheel one side and then the other. It will come off but will be hard.

 

[2001LC]

I've been do that with the 5 lb sledge hammer, side to side, all the way around and rapidly & slowly pounding. I'll try your way now.

Any other ideas?

 

[hoser]

On the frame side of the wheel, try using the OE jack and a piece of 2x4 up against something sturdy, maybe even the opposite side wheel. Use the jack to put a little pressure on the stuck wheel, then continue what you were doing with the 5 lb sledge.

 

[DuckLN]

My key broke like that. I welded a bolt to it and now i can use it with a socket.

Long story though i discarded the wheel locks cause i figure nobody wants 16 yr old wheels and so far im right.

 

[duggy]

Put your back against the car and kick the tire backwards. It will come off.

 

[2001LC]

Not really caring about wheel. After heating too 150 *f. Sea foam penetrating oil bath. Sledging with a brass drift hard for about 1/2 hour in front then rear side of wheel. Then hooked a 20 lb crowbar in the spokes and banged it out for 10 minutes.

Chrome stuck to the hub, and hub rusted to wheel.

Funny inner wheel looks like rust corrosion.

Rust at holes and around inner & outer perimeters.

Rotor was worst metal to metal damage I've ever seen.

PO must have driven a very long time and for a very long way with first early warning tabs squealing, then metal of brake pads to rotor grinding. Then suddenly the sound must have change while the alarms went off as brake fluid ran out the piston as it ground away. Towed to shop, and diagnosed with booster pump clogged & ABS shot, estimate $3,000 to replace both.

ABS & booster, I'm betting there fine.

 

[bctlex]

PO must have driven a very long time and for a very long way with first early warning tabs squealing, then metal of brake pads to rotor grinding. Then suddenly the sound must have change while the alarms went off as brake fluid ran out the piston as it ground away. Towed to shop, and diagnosed with booster pump clogged & ABS shot, estimate $3,000 to replace both.
ABS & booster, I'm betting there fine.

That is insane. Why would someone do that... I am glad you bought and save this one

 

[2001LC]

PO said wife was driving may be she is deaf, who knows.

Even more interesting; When I mentioned to the Auto repair shop manager "it had a brake fluid leak" He said "NO" the "ABS is out and the booster pump was all plug up". Wouldn't any mechanic check fluid level first. The shop gave me 4 pages of work/parts they've done over past 3 years, but not the diagnoses of current issue, which I asked for and they said they would give me.

Here's what may have happen:
It's towed to shop that's worked on PO family cars before. They know these people don't have a clue nor do they take good care of their cars (wheels, body, paint and interior show neglect). Shop sees the reservoir has no fluid and hears metal on metal. They go to pull the noisy wheel and bust the lug key, finding other lugs frozen as well. They then realize this is going to be a bear to get off. Rather than tell PO how difficult it going to be just to inspect, they claim it needs the most expensive brake repair the 100 has.

I can say without a doubt this was the most difficult caliper I've ever pulled. It was like the lugs and wheel was wielded to the lug bolts & hub.

Darn this needed to be out of garage today. I need to find a rotor, caliper kit along with piston today. Dealer said they don't carry kit or piston as it's never called for.

 

[2001LC]

Done, man that was the longest it's every taken me to complete a brake job, and it was only one wheel.

 

[Surfermomma]

This post has been really helpful. I recently picked up a 98 LC. Unfortunately it is missing the lug key. My husband’s stock 99 LC’s lug key doesn’t fit mine. Go figure.

 

[Los182]

This post has been really helpful. I recently picked up a 98 LC. Unfortunately it is missing the lug key. My husband’s stock 99 LC’s lug key doesn’t fit mine. Go figure.

This might help .......... You can pick one up at Harbor Freigh, Walmart, Amazon.......... for $20-$50, depending where you buy it.

 

[BillZ260]

This reminds me of when i first got my truck. She's from Iowa, and was a deal, but has just enough rust to make most of the underside work a pretty decent chore.

I love her, but my next LC i'll definitely get a southern truck!

 

[sean2202]

This post has been really helpful. I recently picked up a 98 LC. Unfortunately it is missing the lug key. My husband’s stock 99 LC’s lug key doesn’t fit mine. Go figure.

I had this same problem recently. Check in the glove box there may be a sticker there or in the owners manual that has a date code along with some numbers and letters. You can look up the key code at www.mcgard.com
Or call 800-444-5847
I bought 2 keys. 1 key for the car in case of a flat tire and 1 for my shop.

 

[2001LC]

Someone pointed out and I made use of "Lexus & Toyota parts department have keys set they let you use". In my case that worked for two (second and third locking lug). The others were to frozen on, and would have (and did) break the key. Plus I had to remove one before I could drive, needing the brakes caliper replaced. After destroy one socket I picked up the extractor set for the four locking lug. The sockets are easier to pound on, but extractors can take a beating time and time again.

I pull all wheel locks off these day, replace with standard lugs.