Advice on parts needed for front axle replacement (1 Viewer)

[cmassa]

I'm replacing the vibrating aftermarket front axles in my 2003 LC soon and am about to order the axles online. After looking through the FAQ and searching other threads I'm not sure if other parts are needed besides the axles. Looking at my service history online, it appears that the wheel bearings were repacked within the last 1-2 years when the aftermarket axles were installed by the dealer so I'm thinking I don't need to touch those. I'm also planning to replace the UCA's with SPC (they're cheaper than oem) and lift 1" with rear spring spacers and crank the TB's on the front.

Are there other parts I need to buy to replace the axles such as seals or snap rings?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[nissanh]

Are you replacing the axles with OEM? Make sure to install new OEM oil seals at the same time.

 

[cmassa]

Are you replacing the axles with OEM? Make sure to install new OEM oil seals at the same time.

Thanks. I'm going with OEM axles. I think I found the part numbers for the seals. Are they hard to get out of the housing? I noticed that the right and left sides are different.

Chris

 

[bentonrover]

This is what I used. Popped right out

 

[2001LC]

Crow bar work ok for removing the differential seals. Just don't knick seat.

I always replace hub flange, cone washer and hub flange snap ring along with a new OEM front drive shafts (AKA axle).

Make sure to grease your axle needle bearing and bushing.

Greasing inner snap ring helps hold open end down during install of axle. Take care not to disturb/knock your seal

If hub flange removed, make sure to check breakaway preload, I'll bet it's loose.

 

[nissanh]

2001 CL: Thanks for posting the video and it is great information. I watched it before I did the front wheel bearings on my cruiser.

I've been lubing the wheel bearings on solid axle on Hilux (LN 106) for some time now and recently did the cruiser. I follow what trail gear torque settings posted on their video. I set the first nut to 47 lb-ft and spin forward and back about 30 seconds a side. Then retorque to 47 lb-ft and spin again as before. Then retorque again to 47 lb-ft and spin as before. Then back off the nut until I can turn the nut by hand (no turning of the rotor/hub). Then set the nut to 24 ft-lb. Next install the locking nut and torque to 47 lb-ft, that's it. So far no play with the wheel on.

 

[2001LC]

2001 CL: Thanks for posting the video and it is great information. I watched it before I did the front wheel bearings on my cruiser.

I've been lubing the wheel bearings on solid axle on Hilux (LN 106) for some time now and recently did the cruiser. I follow what trail gear torque settings posted on their video. I set the first nut to 47 lb-ft and spin forward and back about 30 seconds a side. Then retorque to 47 lb-ft and spin again as before. Then retorque again to 47 lb-ft and spin as before. Then back off the nut until I can turn the nut by hand (no turning of the rotor/hub). Then set the nut to 24 ft-lb. Next install the locking nut and torque to 47 lb-ft, that's it. So far no play with the wheel on.

Triple seating to settling grease is find, but FSM only calls for it once.

But simple setting a torque of 24ft-lbf is not the way to set wheel bearing on the 100 series. Setting Breakaway Preload (BP) to betweens 9.5 to 15lb on fish scale is the proper procedure.

I finding when bearings have been replaced with new OEM bearings & race, then packed with a good synthetic grease, I'll hit right around 45ft-lbf on adjusting nut to get proper BP. With very good and nicely worn in used bearings. I've hit as high as 72ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve the minimum BP of 9.5lb. With rough, pitted bearings and scored races I may hit a torque of ~ 10 to 24ft-lbf with a BP of 12lb on fish sacle.

The factory only give us a starting torque of about 5 to 7ft-lb. What they recommend is using a spring scale to set Breakaway Preload, without actually giving a maximum safe torque.

At 24ft-lbf you'll likely get chatter on claw washer. This scores (groves) the claw washer loosening bearings further, creating more chatter.

New hub flange and cone washer is not always needed but nice to reduce D to N to R clunk. With new OEM front drive shaft I always replace these.

Next key to good job is snap ring gap. Note:This was actually a different wheel bearing job and on other side.

 

[cmassa]

Should I repack the wheel bearings while I'm working on it or just do the drive shafts and UCA's? The left side was done 5 months ago and the right side was done last year. The right side has 12K miles on it. Both were done by the dealer. The right drive shaft has been working fine but there has been a vibration since the left was done (aftermarket cv shafts).

Chris