Overheated now possible blown head gasket (1 Viewer)

[FreshStart]

Hey guys, first post here so apologies in advance if this isn't being done right.

So I am a new owner of a 1985 fj60. Very little mechanical experience. Yesterday I had my first decent drive in my new rig, about 50 miles each way. On the way there she ran like a dream. I was very stoked. Before starting my way back I checked the oil and it seemed fine, but I didn't think to check the radiator fluid level, and about 20 from home I noticed the temp gauge getting really high. I pulled over and that's when I noticed the smell and plenty of smoke billowing from the engine bay. Was on the side of the road for 3 hours until the tow truck came and intermittently would try to start it but no luck. Got towed.

As of now she'll start, but doesn't sound right when idling. There is also a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and the temperature gauge doesn't seem to be registering anymore. I checked the oil and it doesn't look contaminated. It's hard for me to tell wether or not the radiator fluid is contaminated.

PO changed the radiator out recently, engine was rebuilt about 40k ago.

I'm wondering what my best course of action is. I'm currently not in a position to learn to change the head gasket myself. Also, I'm in the Van Nuys area of LA. Thanks

 

[FreshStart]

Also, to my untrained eye, there doesn't seem to be any signs of oil leaking out of the head

 

[Devils Paw 80]

How much coolant was in radiator after you let it cool down? Maybe drain and refill it. With little mechanical experience, you should probably take it to a trusted shop or have a local cruiser head check it out.

 

[FreshStart]

How much coolant was in radiator after you let it cool down? Maybe drain and refill it. With little mechanical experience, you should probably take it to a trusted shop or have a local cruiser head check it out.

Couldn't tell with the radiator itself, but the reservoir was very low. Since this has happened I've only been able to add water. Once I get some Toyota Red I plan on doing a flush and using that

 

[gregnash]

White smoke would indicate what you are thinking, blown hg.

 

[FreshStart]

Can anyone recommend a mechanic in the area? I've reached out to Mark at Mark's Off Road, just waiting to hear back. Feel like such an idiot...

 

[gregnash]

Looking for confirmation or looking for them to do the work? Rebuilding the head and replacing the head gasket is not really that hard a job. Took me a couple weeks to do it working only a couple hours a night after work and waiting for head to be tanked, magnafluxed, etc.

 

[Spike Strip]

Can anyone recommend a mechanic in the area? I've reached out to Mark at Mark's Off Road, just waiting to hear back. Feel like such an idiot...

Couldn't tell with the radiator itself, but the reservoir was very low. Since this has happened I've only been able to add water. Once I get some Toyota Red I plan on doing a flush and using that

Don't use the Toyota red. Go to NAPA on Kester/Oxnard and get the Zerex Original Green.

Mark would be the best one around.

 

[FreshStart]

Anyone have experience with K and H Imports? I'm not in a position to do the work myself and they quoted around $500

 

[OSS]

If you've got the time and a driveway to work on the cruiser while its down (not on the street) and a spare vehicle and you're willing to be patient and follow steps in the manual, you can DEFINITELY figure this out and do it on your own. We all started from zero experience at one point. The only way to become knowledgeable with these things is dive in. Lots of guys (and a few girls) have done it and all are glad they went for it. But if you don't have the time or space, taking it to an experienced cruiser mechanic is the only choice.

 

[Spike Strip]

K&H is good. They know FJ60s well - they're the only other ones I'd go to in the valley. But $500 seems very low to me to do a HG. The Toyota HG alone is close to $100, and I wouldn't use anything else. Plus, the head will have to be magnafluxed, etc ...

But OSS is right, if you can have the truck down for a bit, it's a great way to learn.

 

[CJF]

Anyone have experience with K and H Imports? I'm not in a position to do the work myself and they quoted around $500

if you don't have the time or space, taking it to an experienced cruiser mechanic is the only choice.

Mark would be the best one around.

x1,000,000

Take it to the expert...

 

[FreshStart]

Yeah,

If you've got the time and a driveway to work on the cruiser while its down (not on the street) and a spare vehicle and you're willing to be patient and follow steps in the manual, you can DEFINITELY figure this out and do it on your own. We all started from zero experience at one point. The only way to become knowledgeable with these things is dive in. Lots of guys (and a few girls) have done it and all are glad they went for it. But if you don't have the time or space, taking it to an experienced cruiser mechanic is the only choice.

Yeah, unfortunately for the next 3 months I have street parking and no area to really learn and work on the cruiser. I also have no secondary car

 

[FreshStart]

S

K&H is good. They know FJ60s well - they're the only other ones I'd go to in the valley. But $500 seems very low to me to do a HG. The Toyota HG alone is close to $100, and I wouldn't use anything else. Plus, the head will have to be magnafluxed, etc ...

But OSS is right, if you can have the truck down for a bit, it's a great way to learn.

Sorry, he quoted $500 for the labor alone, no parts. In the future I would like to learn to do these things myself, but for the next 3 months I'm not in the position to.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yeah, then you're in the ballpark. If the engine is a rebuild and the head is good then it's just a matter of the new gasket then it won't be too bad.

Again, if it is the HG, INSIST on a Toyota or OEM HG. I can't stress this enough. They'll know what you mean.

And it hasn't been said, but we are talking about the 2F Toyota engine, right?

 

[FreshStart]

Yeah, then you're in the ballpark. If the engine is a rebuild and the head is good then it's just a matter of the new gasket then it won't be too bad.

Again, if it is the HG, INSIST on a Toyota or OEM HG. I can't stress this enough. They'll know what you mean.

And it hasn't been said, but we are talking about the 2F Toyota engine, right?

I was going to insist on OEM parts. And yes, 2F

 

[FreshStart]

Don't use the Toyota red. Go to NAPA on Kester/Oxnard and get the Zerex Original Green.

Mark would be the best one around.

Why shouldn't I use Toyota Red?

 

[gregnash]

So here is the thing. Unless you know that the HG blew between two cylinders and WHY, I would also go about replacing the water pump and fan clutch at the same time. The other while you are in there's are various heater hoses, belts, plugs, wires, etc. Plus you are probably going to want to have all the valves looked at to ensure everything is good.

Also, have the galley plug fixed while you have the head off (makes things SOOOOO much easier). Look a ways back in my thread as I did this a few years back.

 

[Spike Strip]

Why shouldn't I use Toyota Red?

You have to make sure you thoroughly flush the system so there's no contamination. Contamination can mean sludge in cooling system. Plus the Green is much cheaper, and good, particularly with the stuff that's quality and USA made. You're gonna need three gallons of the red which is around $80 the green about $35, even cheaper if you buy on-sale from vatozone and dilute yourself with dollar-store mineral free (deionized) water. And cheap to replace if it gets dumped.

Green is what came in the truck from the factory and is what is designed for an iron engine, brass radiator.

I'd use the red only if I had an Aluminum radiator, as the Red has a different additive package.

There's lots of opinions on this, just mine from experience and having a mild chemistry background. Ultimately, use what makes you happy.

 

[FreshStart]

You have to make sure you thoroughly flush the system so there's no contamination. Contamination can mean sludge in cooling system. Plus the Green is much cheaper, and good, particularly with the stuff that's quality and USA made. You're gonna need three gallons of the red which is around $80 the green about $35, even cheaper if you buy on-sale from vatozone and dilute yourself with dollar-store mineral free (deionized) water. And cheap to replace if it gets dumped.

Green is what came in the truck from the factory and is what is designed for an iron engine, brass radiator.

I'd use the red only if I had an Aluminum radiator, as the Red has a different additive package.

There's lots of opinions on this, just mine from experience and having a mild chemistry background. Ultimately, use what makes you happy.

I think the PO installed an aluminum radiator actually. I'll have to double check