62 Speaker Sizes (1 Viewer)

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I'm embarrassed to ask this in the open forum, but my 62 is still in the paint shop...so I can't go confirm anything with a tape measure.

Are the front and rear speaker sizes 4" and 6.5" respectively? I'm trying to get things collected while it's in the shop so I can attack all the restoration projects as soon as I get it back.
 

Thanks for the tip. It appears as though the fronts are 4"...but it's gonna take getting eyes and hands on it to confirm. My intent is to hang on to the OEM grille, upgrade the speaker, and clear the window regulator. Some try to fit a larger speaker behind the OEM grille, but that can induce various problems whether it's in your vehicle or your house. (My retirement biz is designing screening rooms and high performance home theaters/AV systems).

I replaced the back speakers a number of years ago, and that was an easy swap. I have a surprisingly capable 2-din head I put in a couple of years ago (that was hell to modify to fit!) when the factory head amp failed. I think that it will actually do just fine with better speakers and a subwoofer. I'm going to go with JBL GTO429 speakers up front, GTO629 speakers in the back, and the JBL BassPro SL compact subwoofer under whichever BMW seat it will fit. The head unit has line level subwoofer out.

These front and back speakers are 3ohm and have fairly high sensitivity at 93dB...so the load on the head unit amp will be modest and hopefully not require an external amp.
 
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Thanks for the tip. It appears as though the fronts are 4"..p.

5 1/4" is what the threads say. I may need to replacement mine soon as one of them isn't working.
Those GTO's look fairly deep in size, as if they wouldn't work with window function. But I dunno. How about the JBL 502's?
 
I just installed the KICKER - KS Series 5-1/4" 2-Way Car Speakers in the front doors my 62. They have a mounting depth of 1.75" and clear the windows. I made a 1/4" mounting ring but only because I didn't want to drill new holes in the door (I can be weird that way) and wanted to use the existing mounting holes which the speakers mounting tabs didn't match up to. Even with the 1/4" mounting ring that I made it still fits behind the stock grill and door panel. Any shallow mount 5 1/4" speaker (mounting depth of 1.75" or less) should clear the windows and fit behind the existing grill in the front.

For the rear speakers the size is 6.5 and any speaker should fit in there as there is lots of room behind the panel. I used the stock mounting plate and grill but had to shave the opening on stock plastic mount plate in some places just a little to be able to have the new speaker sit flush on it but was easy enough to do. The stock speaker grills could fit over it but it would have required a little trimming and some glue to hold them and it works just fine with just the stock metal protection bracket grill over the speaker without the additional speaker grill.

Hope that helps.
 
5 1/4" is what the threads say. I may need to replacement mine soon as one of them isn't working.
Those GTO's look fairly deep in size, as if they wouldn't work with window function. But I dunno. How about the JBL 502's?

The GTO429 depth is an RCH under 2". The GTO and RCH over 2". The question (perhaps for @bsuwara) is what is the clearance between the back of his Kickers which have strange depth info: bottom mount depth (1.75") and top mount depth (2").

I just installed the KICKER - KS Series 5-1/4" 2-Way Car Speakers in the front doors my 62. They have a mounting depth of 1.75" and clear the windows. I made a 1/4" mounting ring but only because I didn't want to drill new holes in the door (I can be weird that way) and wanted to use the existing mounting holes which the speakers mounting tabs didn't match up to. Even with the 1/4" mounting ring that I made it still fits behind the stock grill and door panel. Any shallow mount 5 1/4" speaker (mounting depth of 1.75" or less) should clear the windows and fit behind the existing grill in the front.

For the rear speakers the size is 6.5 and any speaker should fit in there as there is lots of room behind the panel. I used the stock mounting plate and grill but had to shave the opening on stock plastic mount plate in some places just a little to be able to have the new speaker sit flush on it but was easy enough to do. The stock speaker grills could fit over it but it would have required a little trimming and some glue to hold them and it works just fine with just the stock metal protection bracket grill over the speaker without the additional speaker grill.

Hope that helps.

What did you learn of that strange spec showing two mounting depths (top and bottom)? If yours are 1.75" deep, how much clearance did you have from the window regulator?
 
I'm not sure what two mounting depth specs you are referring to but I was just going off the BestBuy.com website info when I purchased them and it showed a 1.75" mounting depth. I honestly don't recall how close it was to the window as I held it up and against the door without the homemade spacer I made and it cleared. I would imagine it is tight but it does clear.

I actually just came across mounting rings that @TheNeek sells on here and I just PM'd him to get a pair because I am going to redo my door cards in the near future and his look like they are a little thinner than mine and are 3D printed and look to be well made.

You can check them out here: Rennstall FJ6X Front Speaker Adapters

I wish I would have come across them before I made mine as it would have made things easier.

Hope this helps.
 
@bsuwara just ordered some adapters from me. I've seen a few different speaker models used with the adapters I print. I list one in the thread and there a few folks who have installed them on their trucks. No one has complained about the window regulator and I know my truck has full window function.
 
@bsuwara just ordered some adapters from me. I've seen a few different speaker models used with the adapters I print. I list one in the thread and there a few folks who have installed them on their trucks. No one has complained about the window regulator and I know my truck has full window function.

Thank you for jumping in with your product! As soon as my 62 gets back from the paint shop, I'll check things out, but I see how your adapters could be just what is needed.
 
I'm not sure what two mounting depth specs you are referring to but I was just going off the BestBuy.com website info when I purchased them and it showed a 1.75" mounting depth. I honestly don't recall how close it was to the window as I held it up and against the door without the homemade spacer I made and it cleared. I would imagine it is tight but it does clear.

I actually just came across mounting rings that @TheNeek sells on here and I just PM'd him to get a pair because I am going to redo my door cards in the near future and his look like they are a little thinner than mine and are 3D printed and look to be well made.

You can check them out here: Rennstall FJ6X Front Speaker Adapters

I wish I would have come across them before I made mine as it would have made things easier.

Hope this helps.

On the Kicker website, look at the specs. You'll see two depths. KICKER | KS Series 5.25" Coax

The tip on @TheNeek's adapters could be a big help. Thanks for that.
 
I see what you mean on the two depth mounts. 1.75” is for top mounting the speaker which is the way you will mount it on the door. The adapter should give it even a little more clearance so it won’t be an issue. Any 5 1/4” speaker with a top mount depth of 1.75” or less should work with no problem.
 
The adapter should give it even a little more clearance so it won’t be an issue. Any 5 1/4” speaker with a top mount depth of 1.75” or less should work with no problem.

And that is not an easy depth to find in a conventional magnet speaker and meeting the performance expectations I have. Even with thermal/acoustic lining, Cruisers have a very high noise floor; they're darned noisy. That means that we have to push the sound system harder to hear it adequately. Finding a speaker and amp combo that can hold up to that without starting to stress out our ears is not easy. That's why I'm staying close to the JBLs if possible. They do not have killer high end frequencies, but my ears aren't as capable there as they used to be either. A speaker that by design does not try to hit those highest notes (like the JBLs) will not become stressed when it cannot. I can sacrifice the extreme high end in exchange for smoother response and higher sensitivity (louder spl per watt).

Anyway, all moot until I can get my Cruiser back in hand to R&D the depth clearance.
 
I could print a thicker adapter too if you find that you'll need more depth behind the door and can still fit in the stock grill.

That could become a player.

Another brand/line I'm looking at is the Alpine Type-S. The downside to them is 88dB sensitivity. It takes almost four times the power to produce the same spl as the JBLs that have 93dB sensitivity. An external amp is pretty much a necessity with that low sensitivity of the Alpines.
 
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Maybe you could get some ideas from mine.

Excellent! Love the component approach to modernize the sound system...but I'll be satisfied with enjoying that in my late model Sequoia, and keep things a bit more simple in the Cruiser. Very impressive how you created mounting solutions for the door drivers. I will be able to avoid the external amp due to the 3 ohm 93dB sensitivity JBL GTO speakers. The Infinity clone of the JBL BassPro SL compact sub under a seat will suffice to fill out the lower end enough to meet my expectations in there.

The JBL Synthesis system in the Sequoia is about the best I've heard in a vehicle. It utilizes speaker locations that I've not seen before. It sounds as if it has a left/center/right configuration across the front/windshield somewhat like in an HT surround system. There is a driver at each end of the dash, and one larger one in the center. I'm not even sure where the rest and the sub are, but it sounds terrific. IIRC, there was even an option in the set-up to select a mode like Dolby Surround. That would be tough to do in a Cruiser, but somebody like you could figure out how to do it.
 
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Okay, this is an idea that is way out there on a limb, but...

@njick22 got me to thinking about what makes my '16 Sequoia sound system sound so good; the primary sound is on top of the dash, reflecting off the windshield. A pair of the speakers below wedged between the dash and windshield at each end and using the line outputs of the AV head and the speakers' aux inputs could be something worth trying. The door and back speakers could still play using the AV head amp, but the L/R sound would be much more prominent. I haven't hear these, but many of the bluetooth compact speakers do very well in near-field and corner loaded (the glass and dash). https://www.amazon.com/OontZ-Angle-...pID=41KHx3q243L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Power could be run to be full-time.

Worth a try? Thoughts?
 

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