22re Engine Sputtering, backfiring (1 Viewer)

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pappy

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Geez, it isn't often I'm stumped and ask for ideas.

Problem. This started a few weeks ago. Intermittent, it would run fine, then not. Felt like a fuel issue rather than an ignition problem. Truck idles fine. Took it for a drive and it would sputter then backfire when I let off the gas. To me this sounded like a fuel delivery problem. I had been having a few other minor issues, like hard starting when warm. When cold it would light right away, but then stumble like it didn't have fuel. It also was blowing wet black soot out the tail pipe, especially when cold. Really made a mess of anything next to it. Also, a few times, in the morning if I cracked the cold start injector there wouldn't be any fuel in the line.

So, assuming fuel delivery. I know the fuel pump and the regulator should keep fuel pressure in the line with the engine off. So I started there. First, fuel regulator. For the record the regulator for the early 22re is disco'd from Toyota. I had a boneyard regulator from a '92 sitting in my o'crap box, so I tossed it on. I'm not sure why Toyota doesn't supersede the part number to the later regulator. While replacing the regulator I noticed the damper was missing the screw. So I replaced that too (still available). Truck lit and ran good, but then started acting up again.

Suspecting fuel pump because of the lack of pressure after sitting, and the warm start issue, I swapped out the pump with another Denso I had in my o'crap box. This was even though it sounded great when shorted at the dx connector. Lit the truck this morning and the stumble after starting was gone. Took it for a putt and the stumbling and backfire was worse. The fuel filter was replaced with the new engine 5 years ago, so I've ruled it out for now.

OK, could it be ignition? Pulled out more parts from the o'crap box and swapped out the coil-igniter, and the dizzy cap. Nope. Checked the valve adjustment, and the valves were spot on.

Oh, no codes.

So, I'm down to TPS (not likely) or maybe the Ox sensor (ummmm). Or, vacuum leak, maybe. Or?

What does the crowd think? Any more ideas.

The truck should be cool enough to work on, so I'm going to dig my spare Ox sensor out and see what happens.
 
Have you checked the actual fuel pressure to see if it falls within spec? I know it'd be hard to believe it not being in spec with ththe parts being replaced.
 
Have you checked the actual fuel pressure to see if it falls within spec? I know it'd be hard to believe it not being in spec with ththe parts being replaced.
Unfortunately the buddy with the gauge moved to Las Vegas, NV, so I don't have access to a gauge.
 
It's prob the EGR, they get clogged open with carbon rocks.

Grab a 3ft piece of vac hose, start and warm it up, then disconnect the hose on top of the EGR "tophat", hook up the spare piece there, and tap on it w a screwdriver handle, while pulling hard on vac line quick, so you don't stall it out. You should hear some rocks rattle down the tube into your oil pan.

ps: if you have an EGR cooler on the down tube, never hit it with wrenches, or try to dismantle it, is full of those rocks, and case is heat welded, nearly impossible to open and clean...
 
It's prob the EGR, they get clogged open with carbon rocks.
Not EGR :smokin:. Or should I say, "what EGR." Wait, it's there … but … :)
 
I had my RE drop in injector once. Created similarly bizarre drivability issues
Good idea. They were rebuild 5 years ago with the new engine. But, something to rule out.
 
Not Ox sensor. It's gotten real bad now. I checked the connections to the injectors and they were on tight. I have another set of injectors I can send it. Who is the latest and greatest on getting them rebuilt/cleaned? I know RC Engineering, and WitchHunter. Any other come recommended?

Also, I checked the timing and it's within spec.
 
I've used Dr Injector with good results.

But they would have to suddenly go really bad to cause this much drama.

What about the infamous ground splices in the engine harness? I think I remember you rebuilt your harness, but could it have failed again?
 
I'd check with a noid light to make sure they all are firing. I'd also try unlocking the cold start and make sure it isn't causing an over fueling
 
I'd check with a noid light to make sure they all are firing. I'd also try unlocking the cold start and make sure it isn't causing an over fueling
Funny, I had a buddy who happens to be a Field Technical Specialist for Toyota tell me the same thing.
 
I've used Dr Injector with good results.

What about the infamous ground splices in the engine harness? I think I remember you rebuilt your harness, but could it have failed again?

I will look at Dr. Injector if I decide to send them off. I'm really hoping it's still something stupid simple before I go down the road of sinister and start bleeding cash. Like I've said most of this stuff has been out of my stash, so no money except for the fuel damper. My buddy with Toyota gave me some other ideas that will get checked off tomorrow.

Ya, I rebuilt my harness a few years back. I fixed all those splices and replaced the injector connectors. It's also on my list to check if it doesn't get resolved otherwise.

I hate this crap. Normally I can figure things out pretty quick, but this one has me stumped. I need to keep this old girl running until I can get the 3RZ installed.
 
Shoot. I wish I could be more help to you. Is it backfiring through the intake or exhaust? So it starts and runs fine until it gets warm? My truck has similar issues with wet black soot out of the exhaust and intermittent hard starting when hot. I replaced my injector time switch with a TSB replacement and that seemed to help the hot start problem. I'll keep racking my brain.
 
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Update, such as it is. Taking some suggestions from here and abroad.

Disconnected the cold start injector. No change.
Swapped out dizzy cap and rotor. No change.
Went to the post office and grocery store to take a break.
Swapped out the AFM. Ummmm. It does run better on my short putt, but was still not quite right. At least it didn't buck hard or backfire. As soon as I have an excuse to burn gas I will take it for a longer run.

The AFM in the truck is a reman I got from Autozone. It's only a few years old, so I guess they are not reman'd to last. Considering how much improved the truck ran when I installed the reman AFM compared to the original, I'm certain the original is 100% either.
 
So, you have a blocking plate on EGR? Still sounds like that is prob.

Try running a spare ground wire from dist/ignitor to ground on body, and see if it makes a diff.

Do those get the ECU cold solder probs like the older 60s?

1984 FJ60 Engine Sputtering, Bucking

You can try disconnecting O2s completely, to test ecu output too... Disconnect Batt neg, unhook both? O2s, turn key to "oN" a few times to drain caps in comp. Hook batt back up. Start idle above 1k for 6-8 mins, till fan comes on, then take it out and drive over 35mph for 5-10 miles trying not to hit brakes or stoplights before you can get up speed. That is typical comp set. You should look up the "maintenance" program for your specific vehicle to find exact specs.

We have to do this to moms Corolla, everytime the temp swings 45 deg between coolant temp and outside temp, is a software bug. Car runs better wout O2s anyway, and doesn't affect mileage around town....
 
I would check the coil or ignitor? Sounds like something is getting warm and breaking down! Like a old time mechanic told me 99% of carburetor problems ( fuel injection) is in the ignition system!
 
OK. Let me give a little update. What advice do I usually give out? "Never assume the worst, it's usually something simple."

I did a bunch of stuff to figure this out. Nothing really solved the problem. The more I drive it, the better it drove. I have come to the conclusion I had a wet tank of gas. I ran the tank all the way down, dumped in a bottle of Heet, and filled her up. Now we shall see.
 

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