My slow battle against undercarriage rust (1 Viewer)

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Dec 5, 2010
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Location
Northeast PA
In my recent drive to finally get around to doing some repairs on my 91 FJ80 I decided to start tackling the rusty undercarriage that Northeast Pennsylvania has graciously donated to me.

After installing an exhaust I noticed that my vehicle was in a position where I could either bring it to a junkyard in a few years, or get on top of the rust issue and buy 5 more years of useable life. The odd rusted brake line has been popping up recently, as well as taking a rust bath anytime I wrenched on anything underneath it.

I completely understand that the right way to take care of this is to remove the body and have the frame media blasted and then painted / galvanized / powdercoated, and then do any repairs on the underside of the body when they're separated, but I don't have the space or the budget for that endeavor - so I decided to do the best I can with what I have.

After doing some research online about what others have done I decided to go the route of cleaning the heck out of everything I could see, repairing whatever has holes, and painting. I began by putting the truck up on ramps, and pressure washing everything as well as I could. After two pretty thorough pressure washing sessions, I wasn't really happy with how it was turning out. 27 years of grease and dirt was caked into every nook and cranny, and it was pretty reluctant to leave it's resting place. I got professional strength simple green off of Amazon (the purple stuff) and went to town pressure washing again. After two subsequent pressure washing with the Simple Green I was satisfied that I got most of the crud off of the truck.

I had a gallon of phosphoric acid left over from a previous rusty project with this truck, so I diluted down to 50% and sprayed everything that resembled rust. Phosphoric acid is a rust converter which chemically converts rust to iron phosphate which is inert and paintable. I waited for the telltale white haze to form, and I rinsed the truck off.

All of the auto body places nearby insisted on a perfectly clean surface prior to painting. Yes, I understand this is preferable but I didn't have the time or the energy to get everything ground clean. Plus, why would I spend hours and hours grinding everything clean and leave the inaccessible portions of the underside rusty? I considered POR15 and similar products, but I've had a few bad experiences with POR peeling off after a few years so I discounted that idea. I made my mind up that I wanted some sort of epoxy.

I work in large construction, so I gave one of my commercial painters a call and he suggested Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646. One of the main benefits is that it's designed for 'marginally prepared steel' - it's also suitable for marine environments and steel which is intended to be submerged in water. He also had a few gallons left over from a previous job, which he gave it to me.
 
The Macropoxy is an unusual orange color, but beggars can't be choosers. I may leave it, or I may topcoat it an appliance grey similar to the frames of mid century commercial vehicles.

This is the truck following pressure washing, and acid application:

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The spare tire carrier didn't work, and I also don't carry a spare under there - so I decided to remove it. The bolts wouldn't budge, so I plasma'd it off.

Here's a clearer view of what I had on my hands after removing the spare tire crossmember:

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While applying the 646 I learned that nomatter how clean you think you got the truck through pressure washing there's always some crud hiding. If you decide to do this, make sure you spend a little time with a scraper and a wire brush anywhere where it looks dirty, or flaky.

For my first coat of 646 I brushed it on thick. I may spray a second coat - but I'm not sure if my spray gun will be able to handle it. It's seriously thick and sticky.

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It's a slow process but I'm happy with how it's going. In about 7 hours spread across the weekend I was able to get from the rear to the front of the gas tank, with the exception of the wheel wells.

I bought a full set of body bushings from a company called Febest, and I intend to install those whem I'm done.

I didn't get any pictures but I discovered some holes on the left and right rear body sections that are concealed by the rear bumper plastic wings. (near where the rear left sunroof drain is) I'll have to cut and weld there.

Also, disappointingly my rear body section underneath the tailgate (behind the rear bumper, painted in white in the above pictures) feels like paper and has some holes in it as well. It seems like a complicated section that's difficult to get to, so I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to take care of that. I suspect it's going to require removing the tailgate and lifting the body a little bit to gain access. I think the rearmost body mounts connect to it, which is likely why it feels like the rear of the truck isn't connected to the frame when I give it a hefty push.


So that's where I'm at up to this point. Like I said, I understand what I'm doing is not optimal, and perhaps considered as a waste of time.. but I think this combined with regular fluid film application will keep the truck in one piece until I can tackle a more permanent solution.
 
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Spent a little time working on this again last night. Got the two wheels wells cleaned up and painted.

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I also discovered why my brakes have felt weak lately - the bracket for the LPSV rod rusted and broke.

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I tried to tack it together as a temporary fix, but there wasn't enough metal. I'll have to make a new bracket.

The goal for this weekend is to get the front diff and suspension components painted, and take the rear bumper apart to diagnose and fix whatever has rusted back there.
 
Awesome job. I think you did a great job of cleaning. That macropoxy looks like good stuff too. So you just brushed it right on after the acid wash?
 
So you just brushed it right on after the acid wash?

Yup. If the area looked like it had some grime left on it I hit it with simple green or wax and grease remover (depending on the amount of grime). But essentially my process has been: pressure wash / pressure wash and simple green / phosphoric acid / rinse / paint with brush.

I didn't choose the orange / red macropoxy - it was free so I'm using it. I'm going to topcoat a lot of it.
 
This is relevant to my interests. I too have underbody rust, and will someday get a frame-off job, but not anytime soon. I need to save and stop it until then so I'll be considering going this route for the time being.

Thanks
 
This is relevant to my interests. I too have underbody rust, and will someday get a frame-off job, but not anytime soon. I need to save and stop it until then so I'll be considering going this route for the time being.

Thanks


For short-term save and extending life, do the Fluid Film. You can always wash it off and do what he's doing.
 
Spent a little time working on this again last night. Got the two wheels wells cleaned up and painted.

View attachment 1773775

I also discovered why my brakes have felt weak lately - the bracket for the LPSV rod rusted and broke.

View attachment 1773774

I tried to tack it together as a temporary fix, but there wasn't enough metal. I'll have to make a new bracket.

The goal for this weekend is to get the front diff and suspension components painted, and take the rear bumper apart to diagnose and fix whatever has rusted back there.


OMFG!

The 646 is good stuff! You have done a TON of work to get there! I know the color of the 646 is not what you wanted, but if it was free, it's worth it! (It's like $75/ gallon WITH discounts!) Top coat it with John Deere Blitz Black (from a john deere dealer) and top coat it. It is a satin black and cures to a hard coating that is durable. (Look it up on their website)

Check with @slow95z to see if he has any of the body parts he can cut off and supply to you so you can bring in an un-rusted patch panel. He may have a truck that the rest of the body panel is bent, but the part you need is in good shape.
 
I have 2 trucks I am currently cutting body parts off of but I have 3 more ready to cut up. I can get whatever you need.
 
Subscribed. This is on the short list of projects - nice work and thanks for the detailed write up.
 
Not poo-pooing the stuff being used by the OP, but with the POR-15 process the prep work makes a huge difference to how well the final coat(s) of POR-15 or whatever is used actually adhere and bond to the surface(s) being protected. I suspect this is the case with any heavy-duty metal coating.
 
I got the passenger side rocker area and most of the front passenger wheel well done today.

It took a lot longer than I anticipated because it was really greasy and required a lot of cleaning.

After some trial and error I ended up using a mixture of 1/3 simple green, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 Dawn dish soap to clean it with a stiff bristle brush. That really cut through the grime.


Next stop, front diff and steering components!
 
Looks great! This reminds me to do something with mine before the brine and road salt season. You're hatch turned out fantastic - it looks brand new! :beer:
 
Man, i am glad i live where there is zero rust. But you gotta deal with a month of 115*....
 
Couldn't figure out how to post pics from my phone last night, so here they are:

Passengers side rocker area:

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Front passengers wheel well:

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I discovered two small holes in the PS wheel well, so I'll have to weld those.
 
Thankfully the drivers side rocker area isn't nearly as greasy as the passengers side was - this is the next area I'm going to paint:

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6-4-6

How apprapo...

Nice work!
 

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