Replace These Wheel Bearings? (3 Viewers)

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I'm in replacing the drive flanges to reduce some of the clunk, and the brake rotors since they're starting to shimmy when braking. Thought I'd wait and see what the bearings look like before buying... The outer race looks questionable to me, inner looks OK.

Thinking I need to bite the bullet...?
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Yes - Bought the rotors, pads and flanges from Kurt. I see only Timken is offered, no Koyo for the 100's? I'm pretty sure they are origianl so I should just do it while in there.
 
Yes - Bought the rotors, pads and flanges from Kurt. I see only Timken is offered, no Koyo for the 100's? I'm pretty sure they are origianl so I should just do it while in there.

Timken is the OE
 
I think I have to disagree on above.
Toyota NEVER came with Timken. Their OE is NACHI for most wheels bearings, NSK and KOYO for most other bearings.
 
Agreed - Kurt I'll give you guys a call on Monday.
 
I only own Toyotas made in Japan and all has Nachi wheel bearings. So the cruiser got to be Nachi.
 
If you can't catch your fingernail on these scores, then no need to worry.
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If fingernail catches, then would be good idea to hand sand in LH & RH crosshatch marks (hone). If lines gone after that, they'll be fine.
DS Axle hub, wheel bearing and knuckle Final cleaning 054.JPG



Factory bearing from a 2001 LX, same as I've seen in all:
DS FT Drive shaft seal, Knuckle, wheel bearing & axle hub 057.JPG


These scored & pitted (not seen in pic.) bearings with 90K on them, got better over the next 90K miles with proper servicing every 30K miles.
zoomed outer wheel bearing DS.png


The 100 series wheel bearings are extremely tough bearings. I've replaced bearings because they were to good. By this I mean; to reach a perload of 9.5lb pull on spring scale (9.5 to 15lb Toyota spec), I hit 75ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut. The high pressure on wheel bearings from adjusting nut was not of any concern, as 100 series bearings like to be tight.
The concern was that any higher torque may damage adjusting nut threads (about 4 IIRC, fine threads). Those bearings were changed do to concerns that torque would need to be even higher next service, and client did not want to be locating mechanic/bearings while in third world country.

I find that with each service, if previous done correctly. It takes a higher and higher torque to reach factory recommended preload. That our bearings just start rolling better and better over time.

I've only seen one case in mud of bearing failure. In that case, the mechanic didn't fill (90-95% filled best practice, as they need a little air space for cooling) hub cavity with any grease. Centifcall force then forced grease out of bearing and they burn up IMHO.
 
Go order 90080-36098 (100 inner wheel bearing) at any US Toyota dealership ;)

You will get a USA manufactured Timken in a Toyota box supplied by Toyota.

For example:

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER FRONT AXLE HUB BEARING OEM 90080-36098 / FAST SHIPPING | eBay

Alright. With this thread and my plan with rotor replacement I might do the wheel bearings as well. Could you please tell me the prices for front two rotors 4351260171, two front inner oil seals 9031170011, two front inner and outer bearings? All OEM parts shipped to 79761 TX. Thanks
 
Alright. With this thread and my plan with rotor replacement I might do the wheel bearings as well. Could you please tell me the prices for front two rotors 4351260171, two front inner oil seals 9031170011, two front inner and outer bearings? All OEM parts shipped to 79761 TX. Thanks

Sorry I'm not in front of a work computer today but all our axle/brake pricing is current here: Cruiser Outfitters

Wheel bearing kits: YWST: Wheel Bearing Overhaul Kits for the 100 Series (LX470)

If you must have a Japanese inner/outer wheel bearing, we can supply that too. Give us a call at the shop and we'd love to help you out.
 
I found two KOYO outer bearings at the local NAPA so am just gonna do those and run the existing inners. I'll do a little honing per 2001LC above and call it good.

Unless there's an issue running one new and one old...?
 
My impact wasn't touching the bolts holding the rotor to the hub. So I mounted the hub back into a wheel with a couple of lugs nuts and took my breaker bar to them while leaning over the tire to hold it. Worked great! In case anyone else struggles with them.
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What's wrong with Timken bearings? Those are considered to be some of the best.
 
I found two KOYO outer bearings at the local NAPA so am just gonna do those and run the existing inners. I'll do a little honing per 2001LC above and call it good.

Unless there's an issue running one new and one old...?
None I know of. Just keep bearings with their race, that they've been used/seated with.
 
Nothing wrong with Timken - I think they are top notch as well. The NAPA had KOYO on hand so I could keep rolling today. If they'd had Timken they'd be in there now.

One shop had FAG bearings and another had National. They couldn't tell me where the Natinals were made so...

What about the FAG bearings? I remember them having some stock replacement components when working on a couple of BMW's we had for a while.
 
So I'm at 50 ft lb torque on the adjusting nut to get 7-8 lb break away force with my fish scale on the lugs.

What's recommended or more important? Keep going up to get to 9.5-15 lb?

2001LC has gone as high as 75 ft lb to get there. Wow.
 

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