Do I need A DC front driveshaft? (1 Viewer)

[ericb1]

So I have about 5-5 1/2" of total lift and I have some symptoms that I am associating with either a bad or going VC, or the need for a DC front drive-shaft. Please let me know your thoughts:

1. When I am accelerating, usually up to 20 MPH and before I feel a drive-line vibration, it seems to die down above this speed
   
2. When I take the foot off the accelerator and am "coasting", and not on the brake, I can hear a grinding noise. It sounds like rocks in a can being shaken. I am likening it to my U-joints not under any load from brakes or engine, and hyper-flexing and having interference somewhere.

The truck is in it's final height, and has been aligned within the month. I have all new steering items and the truck is proper. I MAY reduce height by 1", which requires reducing rear springs bu 1", and removing a front spacer. The rake on the truck was just to much with the springs only (Slee 4" front, and Slee 4" Heavy in the rear) so I had to add the spacer in front.

Replacing the springs with 3" heavy, and removing the front spacer are an option, but there is a cost, and it may not solve the problem. Do these symptoms sound consistent with driveshaft binding? I have read time and time again that at about 5" they are needed.

Where is a good supplier that's reasonable in cost? I'm sick of sinking my money

 

[mudgudgeon]

Do these symptoms sound consistent with driveshaft binding?

Yes

I have read time and time again that at about 5" they are needed.

Pretty common problem for 4"lift and up

I'm sick of sinking my money

Hmmm, going to 4" + lift multiples the sinking of money rapidly.

What was done to correct caster?

 

[nukegoat]

Just lock the cdl and drive around with no front ds. Win and free

 

[ericb1]

Castor was corrected using plates. I am at 2 degrees currently. I Understand 4 is the sweet spot but don't want to get more because I do not want to have to convert to a front steer. The steering is as close as I like, and 2 degrees is in spec, so I'll keep it until I front steer with the 1-ton GM stuff. I have replaced all steering ends and bars so that is probably never.

Just lock the cdl and drive around with no front ds. Win and free

I would disconnect but It is primarily an off-road and camping truck, not a DD

 

[ericb1]

Well, I removed the flashlight that was wedged under my U-joint at front transfer case. Nice aluminum ring around driveshaft but no damage, and light STILL WORKS! Sound is there still but much less. U-joints were beating the sh** out of it. Pulling shaft to remove tomorrow and pricing DC shafts locally.

At this height I would rather spend money on a DC-shaft vs lose the DS (at worst moment for sure) and damaging front seal / pinion. Thanks for the help all

 

[Jason hansen]

Part time kit.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Hah! Years ago I took my bmw into the shop once for a clunk in reverse I just couldn't figure out. His diagnosis revealed a golf ball rolling around in the trunk.

 

[ericb1]

I know there are posts but there are 1000s of them, what is involved in going part time?

1. remove / replace VC?
2. hubs?

what else?

 

[goranvolvo]

You can get whole part time kit from lokka for 360$ to your door and it is cheaper wat to go vs DC shaft plus you have 2 wd and no vibration

 

[Heckraiser]

You can get whole part time kit from lokka for 360$ to your door and it is cheaper wat to go vs DC shaft plus you have 2 wd and no vibration

FWIW, I paid less than $360 for a new DC shaft from Tatton on group buy. Although part time has other benefits (drawbacks?) that are worth considering.

Sweet flashlight story. I thought my truck was going to fall to pieces after my rear driveshaft got in a fight with my exhaust a couple years ago

 

[Tools R Us]

The first thing we try is changing the front shaft to in-phase. Sometimes this reduces or eliminates the problem. When the splines are apart is a good time to grease them, moly.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I know there are posts but there are 1000s of them, what is involved in going part time?

1. remove / replace VC?
2. hubs?

what else?

X2 on the flashlight funniness, but too bad it didn't solve everything.

For part-time, you have to do more than remove the VC. You also have to install a spool in place of the center differential.

 

[Cruzilla]

Built my own DC drive shaft for less that $200.
Take stock front drive line, have a TOYOTA DC joint from a T-100 welded on by local drive line shop...
Easy and should last the life of yer rig!

 

[ericb1]

If going Part time involves replacing hubs as well as replacing VC that's a lot of work for something that still causes driveshaft interference when engaged, and only eliminates it when 4WS is disabled. It allows me to turn the problem on and off, not really solve it. Correct?

I have looked into re-tubing a Tacoma shaft, but it is almost the same price and more pain in the ass than just ordering a Tatton unit. I have seen a few gripes but they seem to be limited and it sounds like a lot of satisfied people, leaning on that route I think unless I am missing something

 

[Bronco74]

Did you call Tatton on a price? Need to order one next week.

 

[baldilocks]

If going Part time involves replacing hubs as well as replacing VC that's a lot of work for something that still causes driveshaft interference when engaged, and only eliminates it when 4WS is disabled. It allows me to turn the problem on and off, not really solve it. Correct?

I have looked into re-tubing a Tacoma shaft, but it is almost the same price and more pain in the ass than just ordering a Tatton unit. I have seen a few gripes but they seem to be limited and it sounds like a lot of satisfied people, leaning on that route I think unless I am missing something

Forget solving this issue for free unless you follow the suggestion in post #3.

I too am at about 5.5” lift. Going past 4” creates issues that require money and/or mad fabrication skills.

If you are not running a 37” or large tires then do the easiest thing and drop it down to 3” lift height and even then, you may experience minor front driveline vibes but these can be eliminated with a DC shaft.

With Slee castor plates they sell with a 4” kit, my castor angle is less than 1 degree. Not sure what plates you have that give 2 degrees with a 5.5” lift. If your castor is actually 2 degrees, your pinion angle might not be correct for a DC shaft (not enough, pinion too low).

Anyhow, you are not venturing into uncharted territory here. You know what you need to do. May I suggest a cheaper hobbie?

 

[OGBeno]

May I suggest a cheaper hobbie?

I say that at least 2-3 times a day to people.

 

[goranvolvo]

Reason i went with part time , you can read alot people complaining about dc shaft not solving the problem 100% and also not lasting long time now with part time the ride is super smoth totally different vehicle and it is not har to install at all anybody can do it

 

[landtank]

Reason i went with part time , you can read alot people complaining about dc shaft not solving the problem 100% and also not lasting long time now with part time the ride is super smoth totally different vehicle and it is not har to install at all anybody can do it

your reasoning for going part time is flawed.

there is a multitude of solutions for every aspect of modifying our suspensions. one needs to drill down to the underlying issue that people are having and to understand the root cause. Not all parts are created equal and just because one part doesn't work well doesn't mean a similar one also shares the problem. The mass amount of posts on here are concerning problems. A good place to start is to identify those products that aren't included in those posts. Those products likely work just fine.

 

[weejub]

You kinda need to decide if you are happy with the lift or not and then address the DS. If you down to 4" you may hear different things or see the problem go away, etc.

Other "too obvious" info - from a guy who didn't follow his own advice and has kinda learned the hard way:

1. Grease BOTH DS - drive it. See what you hear.
2. If still sound - pull the front DS, clean and grease, check for UJoint issues - looseness, etc. Repair as needed, re-listen.
3. If no issues on the front, do the above steps 1 & 2 for the rear - sometimes you are hearing both or rear and you just think its the front only.
4. If no issues on either DS, consider a DC drive shaft for the front. One option: 80 Series Double-Cardan Front Drive Shaft


Edit: And I have enjoyed driving around my truck with no front DS for the last few weeks - its like going to church with no underwear on . . .

But then, it wears off and you want your underwear back - especially if it gets humid out LOL.